cossie4i+

iTrader: (15)

Bad luck mate

Hope you get it fixed soon

Steve.

Damo V

what size and mileage are you pistons mate?

silky16v

iTrader: (1)

hi mate got an engine if u want

bottom-end or complete

Full rebuild with new crank, .50mm Mahle pistons, WRC oil pump, Ford bearing all standard size, ARP big-end bolts, 200 block which is wire-rung, new water pump everything new all receipts done less than 2000 since rebuild.

If u r interested PM me

If u get your head check u can either use this or i have a full rebuild 4x4 head too off same car.

I'm very good friends with chip who can verify the work done on this motor

Dave Henshall

dont know mate,

all thats in the service book is that 15K ago before i had it, it had a recon engine, now i dont know wether that was a new short motor or a rebuilt std one that has gone oversize, will have to measure everything up... what are u thinking...?

silky16v

iTrader: (1)

if u changing the bottom end i wouldn't matter

your head if it's good will fit my block and u have yourself fully working motor.

if your on msn can talk about motor if u want

Damo V

Well I asked out of interest, but 15k is next to no mileage really i.e doesnt really warrant new pistons etc..

But new shells rings gaskets etc .. IMO ... yes

Who supplied/fitted the short engine? For example I rang powers about mine as it had a blueprint rebuild 30 odd K before I got it, I wanted to know bore size crank size etc, the engine builder flicked through his little black book and was able to tell me exactly what was done!! (in my case std crank size and 0.5mm oversized pistons)

As a guide for you, I sold my old 200 block, which was on a .5overbore and number 4 was quite badly scored from the meltdown (ideally needed boring further), for over 200 quid....

You will struggle IMO to find a decent std size block or 0.5 oversize block, both in terms of value and having confidence in it second hand IMO

Then you have a quandry, as if you buy a NEW block (700ish) you will begrudge boring it out IF your pistons are 0.5 oversize fingers crossed they are std size, then you can just get a NEW block if necessary, decent Seconhand head (as I believe you have lost confidence in that too) away you go...

Though this is why I went low comp etc etc "while its apart" and all that

Dave Henshall

hmmm

do i buy a complete setup like silky or Pons, and just fir it, then piss about with mine at my leisure...?
dont want to go any more power

silky16v

iTrader: (1)

well choice is yours mate but a rebuild will cost ya more than u realise they always do.

Damo V

true

Dave Henshall

im under no illusion just how much it can cost, the head which only wanted a 30 quid skim ended up costing 300 , and that was before the 150 quid HG and after all that it still may be scrap

Damo V

at least if you start a scratch with new block/head you can fit a wrc HG then in theory it wont have to come off ever again, but it all adds up... one thing I just HAD to have on my new build was a WRC HG ...

Dave Henshall

trouble is, a new head would need new cams, valves, studs etc ect, all adds up, so 1300 for head, plus probaly another 500 for bits, and teh opposite for teh bottom, 600 for block, then 1500 for bits, cant spend that on it and then maybe sellit next year...

Damo V

i meant decent FLAT head

MONSTER

Its a bit of a catch 22 situation, if you're planning on selling it then you really don't want to be spunking shed loads of cash on it, but if you're in any way wanting to keep it then you want the piece of mind that a full rebuild will give....

If you are serious about selling then tbh it makes sense to buy a 2nd hand engine for around the £800 mark, I know its more expense but its not as much as you would loose selling as a none runner...

silky16v

iTrader: (1)

Have a think on mate if u want anymore info or pic's or reciepts i can provide them for u

Dave Henshall

thats the kind of thinking im into :0
but there aren't any engines around for that, that i can find anywya

MONSTER

I havn't looked for an engine recently but when I was looking the going rate for a 4x4 engine less ancilliaries was around the £800 mark, mind you that was pre ebay days and there doesn't seem to be as many around privately for sale anymore

Si B

iTrader: (59)

Just to add my 2p worth - I had very similar problems to the one Dave has decribed - and after 2 failed head gasket jobs, it turned out I had a crack between the exhaust valves on no 3.

I then tried getting the head repaired (by a good welder friend) but that also failed - didn't quite seal the crack due to proximity of the valve seats.

In the end I bought a second hand head, banged it on and the car ran all through this year with no more head issues.

I, based only on my personal experience, would recommend Chip's suggestion of checking over the head carefully with a magnifying glass for hairline cracks - it won't take much to easily produce the symptoms you've described. That's what I should have done first time it happened to me.

Don't give up on it!

Regards
Simon

Dave Henshall

its basically head off again, and full inspect and check the bores for cracks,


i can get my hands on some crack detector spray as used in lifting gear inspections on fork lift truck forks etc..

might try some of that down each bore and see what it shows up...


can a specialist pressure test the head with it just removed, or does it have to be fully stripped down as if it was going for a skim..?