high rev gear change from 1st to 2nd - CRUUNCH
#42
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Originally Posted by RichardPON
Hang on Wes - you don't even have an MT75 in there any more do ya?
#45
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Originally Posted by DaveEscos
Originally Posted by wes
Originally Posted by DaveEscos
cheers Wes, ill drop the oil out and put some new in...
they arent easy are they!
luckily my engine was out when i fitted mine! still a pain though!
out of interest, how can you remove/fit so quickly? amy set methods?
Edited to say: if you have a scissor jack use this at the back of the engine under the sump to keep the engine level-ish
#47
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Think Martin would also sell a kit but as he has done loads I reckon you are better getting him to do it. I don't think the box needs modding does it?
http://www.reyland.co.uk/Details.asp?ProductID=43
Ask Mike, Wes, Warren, Marco or any of the millions of people that have had them done how good they are
Warren missed out on TOTB because of a shonky clutch mech! Fit the proper one
http://www.reyland.co.uk/Details.asp?ProductID=43
Ask Mike, Wes, Warren, Marco or any of the millions of people that have had them done how good they are
Warren missed out on TOTB because of a shonky clutch mech! Fit the proper one
#48
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Originally Posted by wes
Originally Posted by DaveEscos
Originally Posted by wes
Originally Posted by DaveEscos
cheers Wes, ill drop the oil out and put some new in...
they arent easy are they!
luckily my engine was out when i fitted mine! still a pain though!
out of interest, how can you remove/fit so quickly? amy set methods?
Edited to say: if you have a scissor jack use this at the back of the engine under the sump to keep the engine level-ish
#49
Originally Posted by Porkie
Ask Mike what the BEST mod he ever made to his car was
Wish I had done a hydraulic conversion too instead of having just the clutch changed last week.
#52
Caraholic
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No mods required to bell-housing on 4x4 . Fit slave cylinder and modify clutch pedel and a hole through bulk-head etc. Martin provides photographic step by step instructions for this, so can be done by someone competent (so yes for Dave, and not until hell freezes over for Franco ).
#59
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Originally Posted by DaveEscos
yep, as i thought Wes, cheers... i bet putting it back on, on your own is a bit of a cnut aswell! ???
Taking the clutch pedal off for the hydraulic converison is also a complete c'unt of a job too!
Hydraulic converison is well worth doing though, much smoother in operation, and no cable to snap when you driving like a loon in the middle of nowhere.
#63
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Goto Ford and buy 2 litres of their MT75 oil, job done, if you haven't mullered the syncros already.
Quaife (who manufacture the gearset) recommend the oil that Oilman has sold Dave.
Yes, it is thicker and slipperier than MT75 fluid, but is usually OK when hot.
It is possible to beat the synchros on 1st/2nd shift (particularly with a Quickshift), and would do it on all the others too if you tried shifting at the same speed as you can 1st to 2nd.
If you have a STANDARD MT75, then use MT75 fluid.
If you are a manufacturer of gears then recommend any oil you like
#64
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Originally Posted by gearboxman
Goto Ford and buy 2 litres of their MT75 oil, job done, if you haven't mullered the syncros already.
Quaife (who manufacture the gearset) recommend the oil that Oilman has sold Dave.
Yes, it is thicker and slipperier than MT75 fluid, but is usually OK when hot.
It is possible to beat the synchros on 1st/2nd shift (particularly with a Quickshift), and would do it on all the others too if you tried shifting at the same speed as you can 1st to 2nd.
If you have a STANDARD MT75, then use MT75 fluid.
If you are a manufacturer of gears then recommend any oil you like
and what would be the best oil for the front Diff
thanks
#69
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Originally Posted by gearboxman
Goto Ford and buy 2 litres of their MT75 oil, job done, if you haven't mullered the syncros already.
Quaife (who manufacture the gearset) recommend the oil that Oilman has sold Dave.
Yes, it is thicker and slipperier than MT75 fluid, but is usually OK when hot.
It is possible to beat the synchros on 1st/2nd shift (particularly with a Quickshift), and would do it on all the others too if you tried shifting at the same speed as you can 1st to 2nd.
If you have a STANDARD MT75, then use MT75 fluid.
If you are a manufacturer of gears then recommend any oil you like
I don't make gearsets, i'm mearly sharing my past experiences with this oil in an MT75 syncro gearkit, which was produced by R+D, who also funnily enough said use Silkolene Syn5, which i did, and the gearbox always crunched when using this oil. I changed to the std oil after 2 rebuilds by R+D, as recommeded by another gearbox builder, and it stopped crunching, i didn't change my driving style, so can only assume using the Ford oil solved the problem.
Good luck with your gearbox Dave
#70
Advanced PassionFord User
Dave,
Qaiffe have tested and recommend this oil and we sell a lot to people with the Quaife fitted and no problems.
I don't know what to suggest but I'm 99.99% sure that the oil is not to blame.
Have you changed it yet?
Cheers
Simon
Qaiffe have tested and recommend this oil and we sell a lot to people with the Quaife fitted and no problems.
I don't know what to suggest but I'm 99.99% sure that the oil is not to blame.
Have you changed it yet?
Cheers
Simon
#71
I use Syntrans 5 in a my std MT75 and Diffs. It has totally eliminated all the garbage chattering it did when very hot, in fact it sat there quiet as a mouse after 21 consecutive laps of the Nurburgring and, more imporantly to this topic, it never baulks into a gear.
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