FAO Handling Experts NOT Rainbird...
21-09-2005, 03:43 PM
#1
FAO Handling Experts NOT Rainbird...
Right Ohlin Coilovers ON and rear springs removed ROFL
Dont feel too harsh at all...i think i read on the front spring 250???So whats the best ride height...higher on front than back or equal or vice versa?At the mo its all level and i can get 3 finger height under every wheel arch...dont look too bad at all.
What setting do i use on the remote cannisters?...There are 25 positions
21-09-2005, 03:48 PM
#4
Not something that can be asnwered without a lot more info, also its a personal thing anyway, what is how one person likes a car to handle isnt how another person likes it to handle.
Get it to a track and experiment is the ONLY real way of setting your car up for your driving style.
Get it to a track and experiment is the ONLY real way of setting your car up for your driving style.
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21-09-2005, 03:57 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by Bosch-Man
@ Pon....its Ohlins allround coil overs with remotes...the real deal 
You should lower it as much as you can, cos it isn't gonna go anywhere, so you want to make it look as good as possible parked in your drive
21-09-2005, 03:59 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by chip-3door
Get it to a track and experiment is the ONLY real way of setting your car up for your driving style.
phil!? maybe he could tag along when me and AJ go to the ring
21-09-2005, 04:00 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by JAP CRAP
Originally Posted by chip-3door
Get it to a track and experiment is the ONLY real way of setting your car up for your driving style.
phil!? maybe he could tag along when me and AJ go to the ring
21-09-2005, 04:28 PM
#23
...Chip why bother commenting on my threads?
As i think you are a wanker along with many others...so please dont waste your energy typing as its so irritating having to see a poor dreamer person on my threads
As i think you are a wanker along with many others...so please dont waste your energy typing as its so irritating having to see a poor dreamer person on my threads
21-09-2005, 04:34 PM
#25
Phil,
These are just helper springs to ensure that the spring stays seated properly when the wheels leave the ground.
You need to establish what rates the rears are, also what the free lengths are. As an example, I run 325lb front and 171lb rear on my car. The rears go on the softest setting (and are like the Konis on full hard) and the fronts, I run on position 7 of 22 (I could have probably used 350lb springs and ran them on the softest setting, but I wanted to ere on the side of it being nice to drive on the road, and it does both very well).
These are just helper springs to ensure that the spring stays seated properly when the wheels leave the ground.
You need to establish what rates the rears are, also what the free lengths are. As an example, I run 325lb front and 171lb rear on my car. The rears go on the softest setting (and are like the Konis on full hard) and the fronts, I run on position 7 of 22 (I could have probably used 350lb springs and ran them on the softest setting, but I wanted to ere on the side of it being nice to drive on the road, and it does both very well).
21-09-2005, 04:34 PM
#26
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Phil,
There is only so far you can go with DIY
............
Take your car to Graham Hathaway (Maldon, Essex), tell him I sent you
Get him to set it up - you WONT regret it, he will corner-weight it and set it up just how you want it.
There is only so far you can go with DIY
............ Take your car to Graham Hathaway (Maldon, Essex), tell him I sent you
Get him to set it up - you WONT regret it, he will corner-weight it and set it up just how you want it.
21-09-2005, 04:39 PM
#27
Mike...and all.....this suspension came off a famous recce car...i dont think its wrong..LOL....
Post from another site
The generally agreed limit for comfortable suspension on a road car is ~150 pound/inch of travel. If you go to a 275lb spring, you have basically no suspension other than the give of the tires below about 60 mph. In addition, the stiff shock rates necessary for these springs cost money also! The LEDA setup, w/springs, to do this work is $1800. This is a pretty steep price to pay for 10 hours of driving on the road with an awful ride quality and ˝ hour of neat driving,, again with an awful ride quality! The Leda with standard springs or slightly higher spring rates will do almost as good a job with far greater comfort.
Anyone driving a 275/225 pound gravel spring setup or god forbid, a 400/300 tarmac rally setup, will tire of it in very short order! You will have a sore back, your arms will ache and if you do not have a 700 driving seat, you will be hanging on for dear life.. An un-reinforced chassis will not take it for too long, either. IMHO, it is much cheaper to set the clothes dryer on fluff and hop in for 10 minutes every time you wish you had spring rates like that on a road car! Our Prodrive and STI version 5 kits are the ideal compromise for a road car. Great handling balance, great long distance comfort..
Post from another site
The generally agreed limit for comfortable suspension on a road car is ~150 pound/inch of travel. If you go to a 275lb spring, you have basically no suspension other than the give of the tires below about 60 mph. In addition, the stiff shock rates necessary for these springs cost money also! The LEDA setup, w/springs, to do this work is $1800. This is a pretty steep price to pay for 10 hours of driving on the road with an awful ride quality and ˝ hour of neat driving,, again with an awful ride quality! The Leda with standard springs or slightly higher spring rates will do almost as good a job with far greater comfort.
Anyone driving a 275/225 pound gravel spring setup or god forbid, a 400/300 tarmac rally setup, will tire of it in very short order! You will have a sore back, your arms will ache and if you do not have a 700 driving seat, you will be hanging on for dear life.. An un-reinforced chassis will not take it for too long, either. IMHO, it is much cheaper to set the clothes dryer on fluff and hop in for 10 minutes every time you wish you had spring rates like that on a road car! Our Prodrive and STI version 5 kits are the ideal compromise for a road car. Great handling balance, great long distance comfort..
21-09-2005, 04:53 PM
#29
Phil,
You're comparing apples with oranges again. That is 275lb for THAT particular car.
However, if they are 250lb springs for Forest spec, then the rears will be softer, so that is a good start.
I would run the ride height fractionally higher at the back 10-15mm. Do NOT lower the front too much, or you'll cause problems with the drive shafts popping out.
Start with the damping on full soft all round and adjust it up 5 clicks at a time until you get close to what you like, you can then fine tune it up or down a couple of clicks at a time until it is perfect.
Given that you won't ever go near a track, you may find the soft / long travel of the Forest set-up will suit you down to the ground 
.
Once you have sorted the ride height to your satisfaction, you MUST get the geometry set. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES listen to anyone that tells you that the toe should be set to parrallel (as listed by Ford). It should be parrallel, but NOT static (i.e no forward motion). So what you do is set it to a fraction toe-in (2mm) and then in forward motion with the bush deflection it will run parrallel. If you set it to parrallel when the car is static, then it will toe-out with the bush deflection created by the forward movement. This will cause the car to wander and follow every imperfection in the road.
You're comparing apples with oranges again
. That is 275lb for THAT particular car.However, if they are 250lb springs for Forest spec, then the rears will be softer, so that is a good start.
I would run the ride height fractionally higher at the back 10-15mm. Do NOT lower the front too much, or you'll cause problems with the drive shafts popping out.
Start with the damping on full soft all round and adjust it up 5 clicks at a time until you get close to what you like, you can then fine tune it up or down a couple of clicks at a time until it is perfect.
Given that you won't ever go near a track, you may find the soft / long travel of the Forest set-up will suit you down to the ground
.Once you have sorted the ride height to your satisfaction, you MUST get the geometry set. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES listen to anyone that tells you that the toe should be set to parrallel (as listed by Ford). It should be parrallel, but NOT static (i.e no forward motion). So what you do is set it to a fraction toe-in (2mm) and then in forward motion with the bush deflection it will run parrallel. If you set it to parrallel when the car is static, then it will toe-out with the bush deflection created by the forward movement. This will cause the car to wander and follow every imperfection in the road.
21-09-2005, 05:03 PM
#30
Cheers mike ...You actually do sound like you know some shit...pity you cant put it into practice
I know the above article is for a Scooby but surely it aint far off ..It deffo feels harder than std on the softest settings alround...but not horrible...i will stiffen up tommorrow
...You actually do sound like you know some shit...pity you cant put it into practice I know the above article is for a Scooby but surely it aint far off
..It deffo feels harder than std on the softest settings alround...but not horrible...i will stiffen up tommorrow
21-09-2005, 05:07 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Bosch-Man
...just one of my shocks is worth more than you your car and your family.
As for why i comment on your threads, same as on any other thread i would comment on, or that any of the other useful members of the site who dont mind giving out technical info make comment, because people may well read it and find the informtion useful.
Obviously that is not so much aimed at you even though you are the thread starter as everyone on here already knows that you are a complete and utter dreamer who once again wont ever finnish your car let alone trackday it, but cause other people searching with the facility on the site may happen cross your threads in the future.
21-09-2005, 05:12 PM
#33
...yeah i dream Chip ..and i am living it.
...i reiterate please stay off my threads...why make our next meeting a hostile one when you can just fuck off and leave my threads alone I CANNOT STAND YOU or anyone related/having sexual affairs with you...why you continue to post is beyond me Obviously a net nerd
..and i am living it....i reiterate please stay off my threads...why make our next meeting a hostile one when you can just fuck off and leave my threads alone
I CANNOT STAND YOU or anyone related/having sexual affairs with you...why you continue to post is beyond me Obviously a net nerd
21-09-2005, 05:20 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Bosch-Man
...yeah i dream Chip ..and i am living it.
...i reiterate please stay off my threads...why make our next meeting a hostile one when you can just fuck off and leave my threads alone I CANNOT STAND YOU or anyone related/having sexual affairs with you...why you continue to post is beyond me Obviously a net nerd
..and i am living it....i reiterate please stay off my threads...why make our next meeting a hostile one when you can just fuck off and leave my threads alone
I CANNOT STAND YOU or anyone related/having sexual affairs with you...why you continue to post is beyond me Obviously a net nerd Next meeting, Phil that would mean you would actually have to go to a show or something, that seems about as likely as you ever actually going through with anything you say you will, like your 600bhp+ 3door you staked your reputation on (which admitedly meant you didnt lose much when you quit like we all knew you would
)
21-09-2005, 05:21 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by Bosch-Man
..what are std front springs rated at BTW?
* Rear spring rate is 62 Nm
* Dont forget that the standard Es Cos rear spring rate looks high - BUT as it is on a lever (i.e. inboard of the trailing arm) is in effect it is a lot softer than the front springs.
21-09-2005, 05:30 PM
#37
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phil, i was told that in comparison, konis are the equivalent of 180lb on the front.
i run 250lb fronts / 150 rears and i think theyre fine (still quite hard for a road car tho)
and i run mine are sensible height (probably about the same as -20mm at a guess) and have them set to full soft on the damper
i run 250lb fronts / 150 rears and i think theyre fine (still quite hard for a road car tho)
and i run mine are sensible height (probably about the same as -20mm at a guess) and have them set to full soft on the damper
21-09-2005, 05:41 PM
#38
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I'll be running near 300lb springs on the Corsa.
Got some sprngs rated under 200 I reckon on at the moment, the ride is very harsh on a bump, but I'm convinced this is due to the springs getting coilbound almost instantly
Got some sprngs rated under 200 I reckon on at the moment, the ride is very harsh on a bump, but I'm convinced this is due to the springs getting coilbound almost instantly
21-09-2005, 05:42 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by SECS
Doug, what suspension set up do you have now you have that beam on ?
Front is ZOO adjustable TCA's, Ahmed springs and Koni's also on the hardest settings.
