As ive said before i changed the cam and fitted the 4x4 cossie stage 3 turbo ..it had a kent 36 cam and standard turbo it was still around the 4k area

Only thing i havnt changed is the actuator could this be knackered?

 

If its coming on boost and then holding it properly, i doubt the actuator is knackered.

 

4x4 stage 3 turbo ,do you mean an escort rs turbo with a 0.48 turbine housing 7 degree cut back exhuast whel 60 trimm 4x4 comp wheel 360 bearing.
If that is the turbo you have used change it to a 0.36 escort turbo 50 trim

 

time lag

"n : time during which some action is awaited; "instant replay caused too long a delay"; "he ordered a hold in the action" [syn: delay, hold, postponement, wait]"

makes me laugh all this 'interpretation' of turbo lag,

see above quote , 'i ask for full boost - i floor the throttle - i wait until full boost is achieved' this is still lag guys im sorry.

and all this compression/boost thingy - not again guys please.

 

it has a 0.48 exh hsing 60 wheel and 360 bearing yes..But its no differnt to when i had my std turbo still around the 4k area..i can change the turbo but i know it will still be the same..

 

The laws of physics (And more importantly Karl and Tony ) disagree with you.

 

y when i had the standard turbo on then did it do the same?

 

Cracks around the wastegate area is the most common reason.

A compressor on the end of a .36 turbine housing quite simply CAN NOT have the same boost response as it had on a .48 unit when subjected to the same volume of energy. (IE.. same engine.. just turbo change)

Always presuming the air intake system is free from leaks then the only reason to continue the debate is if you are awaiting an answer you want to hear

 

LOL @ Stu quite true!!!

As I've said if you want 3K rpm response then std cam and 0.36 turbine housing 50 trim is the answer, but I feel that fell on deaf ears!!

All the range of Kent and piper cams work poorly with 0.48 turbines and bigger, and have been created to essentially extend the rev potential of the aesthmatic 0.36 turbine. In reality it is best to use either a 0.48 turbine and std cam if you want to extend the rev range than change the cam, but for low down response I'm affraid uncle Henry got it right in the first place!

(Except for cracked and knackered turbo's, engines etc ROFLOL)

 

Interesting read this one!

As said with your spec, its always gonna be laggy.

My rst has very little lag and spins up fast, but ive got a standard head, stage 2 turbo with standard housing, kent 34, and a turbosystems re-programmed chip (which ive been told is a very good ecu), i run 22psi.

also heard that the superchip for an rst isnt that good

 

hmmmmmmmmmm you sure oh well I give up now karl has told u stu has told u I have told u but what do we know enjoy your lag

 

Well if that is the case i really cant aford to spend anymore money on it lol so it will have to stay like if for now...

Worth knowing about the standard cam tho I think you can still get them from ford or where ever..

 

Ok stu karl and I have been discussing this problem you have all day even missed lunch Karl has also been intouch with the garret development team who dedicated the whole of their 4 thousand strong work force to find the answer you want to hear we have all come up with the same solution ............ a hearing aid is on it's way to you

 

No ...thanks for ur help , as i said its my first RST so still learning the whole turbo area..and i think ive made the wrong choice on parts in this case nevermind

 

my advice to you is to ask people that have actually tuned these cars remeber they are an 80's car buy your parts from someone that builds fast cars not someone that sells parts .If your turbo is new send it back and get them to change the spec. I wouldn't fit your turbo to any spec 1.6 for a number of reasons

 

Cheers

 

So how does this differ from a N/A car then?

If I give full throttle at 2000rpm in 5th, and it doesn't give me "enough acceleration", surely, it just means I'm in the wrong gear. Otherwise, why not make all cars single gear direct drive

 

I have full boost at 4.000 ish rpm 2 bar t34,with a bigger housing than yours i recon you have a miss match as they have said.
I have no lag at all as i change gear i have full boost always thats what i rate as lag anyways not the rpm it reaches full boost at.
My .48 was ok too not that dissimilar to the t34 etc.
The .36 was out of puff at 6200 drove like my derv mondeo

 

p.s tony the cavaler vaux kit still looks mint bet it still aint moved off that ramp yet

 

I have a 60 trim 0.48 on mine with a std cam and an NMS/Turbosystems chip and have good boost under 3k, although it is obviously laggier than a 0.36. I'm soon to put on the .63 t34 which is what the engine was built for, and am hoping it's not too much worse than the 0.48

 

it doesnt - its exactly the same, you still wont reach full power until its at the point where peak power is made- its still a form of lag, the only differance is we have a device that will enable us to make the power where we want it engine spec also relevant here, hence we have turbo lag, you can have your turbo on full boost - dont mean your making maximum output, its just youve overcome the fact that we are still working with a seriously antiquated means of propulsion, which until all variables are at the optimum moment then the maximum output will not be developed

 

no that means that your power plant cant give you the correct output for that chosen gear, if we wanted max output with fook all speed we would all have 4.2:1 1st gears and a 5.1: diff - you will have NO lag no matter what motor you choose - you also will go fookin nowhere - slow !!

 

I see what you're saying Mark, but I'm still trying to disagree with you somewhere!

 

Thats intresting... I might pick up a STD cam just to try it

 

That's in 4th gear - wont make boost at 2.5 k in 2nd

 

then all ya gotta worry about is torque steer and wheel spin , 136 quid for a new cam cant be wrong either,,,,, the cvh 36 is a late cam anyway,,,,,,,, i belive karl dont like em either

my advice now ya seem to be paying attention is pm karl or email him and get him to set it up and have a chat and a brew with him and he will tell ya how to make a car do what ya want it too,,,,,,,,,,, untill ya want it to act different again

 

That's hilarous you won't know me Tony, but i have missed your posts! Very amusing mate! No offence to 'rs_daz' that quote is in jest mate.


4k then on song, is that what a tuned RST is like?!!, I think I will stay low bhp lawn mower power then if that's the case, as on a standard 6.2k rev limit on a CVH RST turbo you'd probably get about 2 seconds worth of acceleration before having to change gear...... you'd have the potential of getting done by a well healed Vaxhall Cavalier GSI , what with waiting for it to come on boost then changing gear

 

Your original turbo might have been cracked or simply knackered not boosting up like it should have done making it feel similar to your new one. Might have even been a knackered gasket leaking gases between the turbo and manufold. My standard RST used to be on song bang on just under 3k

 

keep tryin .................................................. .................................................. ............................... son !











just reminds me of a few convos with my dad a few years ago

 

Is that how much a new std cam is then from ford?
I quess i can sell my cam and get my turbo changed to a different spec easly.il get there one day

 

LOL you know where im coming from now Its bollocks

 

problem ya need to raise the power band to get th car faster,,,, that means theres less low down power as such but much better higher in the revs, when ya cain the car ya aint gonna change at 6k areya, ya change at 7k and then ya put back at 4500k(ish, never actually looked, usually holding on for life ) in the next gear meaning ya on boost anyway

higher power band means ya can save the second orso in distance just changing later and getting a lead from the one behind


all of which dont help this guy when he wants to lool rapid drving out mcdonalds car park not slow then when they cant see he the car flys

 

just book ya car into karl and get him to advise and do what he says

go out in a few cars and find what ya prefer before ya waste ya cash

 

I have heard this before actually come to think of it, not my bag of chips either mate ...

Is it a new engine or an original? if it's been recently rebuilt and is fresh and strong, you could get the limiter raised to about 6.5k then get a standard Ford cam to help the low down drive-ability....hopefully then you would end up with a power band from 3.5k-6.5k?

Or buy a t3 Stage 2 and sell your existing turbo......

Either which way I recon it would be best taking it to a pro RST specialist like the above, to advise you, as you could spend a lot of money experiementing to get the right combo of bits unnecessarily...

Best of luck mate

 

Yeh the engine is only 11k old..Like i said i had it tuned up about 4 weeks ago and had the car there for a whole week which cost alot..
Better get saving again lol

 

That's okay - you're probably old enough to be my dad anyway

 

AD-RS1600i,
If ya meet us sometime come out for a blast i.ll show you what my cars like lag wise,better still bring that gsi lol see what its like lol

 

If you say compare ollies to my car totally diff on boost times etc ,we will see soon enough how they compare in every way wasnt much in it at ND So will be interestin.

 

The majority of turbochargers feature a wastegate--a valve which allows some of the exhaust gas to be directed around the turbine. This allows the turbo's shaft to spin at a reduced speed, promoting increased turbo life (among other things). Think of it as a 'stand by' mode. Since the turbo isn't needed during relaxed driving anyway, this effect is harmless...

...until you suddenly want to accelerate. Let's say that you are loafing along, engine spinning 1500 rpm or so. You instantly floor the throttle. The exhaust gas flows through the turbo and cause it to spool (spin up to speed and create boost). However, at this engine speed there isn't very much exhaust gas coming out. Worse still, the turbo needs to really get spinning to create a lot of boost. (Some turbos will spin at 150,000 rpm and beyond!) So you, the driver, need to wait for engine revs to raise and create enough exhaust gas flow to spool the turbo. This wait time--the period between hitting the throttle at low engine speed and the creation of appreciable boost--is properly called boost response.


Many people incorrectly call it lag, which is really something different.


Lag actually refers to how long it takes to spool the turbo when you're already at a sufficient engine speed to create boost. For example, let's say your engine can make 12 psi at 4000 RPM. You're cruising along at a steady road speed, engine spinning 4000 RPM, and now you floor it. How long it takes to achieve your usual 12 psi is your turbo's lag time. Between the two, slow boost response usually causes the most complaints.

There are two aspects to consider when dealing with boost response: engine factors and driver factors. As far as engine factors go, there are many things which affect turbo lag... although most are directly related to the design of the turbo itself. Turbos can be designed to minimize lag but this usually comes at the expense of top-end flow. In other words, you can barter for instant boost response by giving up gobs of horsepower in the upper third of your RPM range. (Behold the catch-22 in designing one turbo for all uses.)

Driver factors are another matter. You basically need to understand how a turbo works and modify your driving style accordingly. To sum it up, don't get caught with your pants down! If you feel that there may soon be a sudden need for serious thrust, downshift until your engine speed is at least 3000 RPM. This way there will be noticable boost almost as soon as you hit WOT. If you are going up a hill at WOT around, say 1800 RPM and your speed is dropping, you'll need to downshift just like any other car in the same situation. Remember: turbos need exhaust gas in order to spin. Let them have some when they need it.

 

Tim posting has reminded me to raise an important issue.

Allthough you may see cars like Tim's and Oli's fitted with large turbos what you must remember is that these are extremely modified engines with virtually no parts remaining from the original engine. These units cost in excess of £7K and to just choose random parts that are similar to the parts used on my engines to fit to your own std engined RS turbo is only asking for BIG trouble!!

Tim may take the p!ss with regards to others having lag trouble but remember Tim's engine revs to 7500rpm and has similar power to boost ratios as a std cosworth engine and as such is a much more efficient unit!

Remember it's the entire package that works, not just throwing random "hi spec" parts together.