solid beam mounts.
#1
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solid beam mounts.
Is the a trick to mounting the 2wd cossie rear beam with solid mounts? Mine wants to go in on the piss. Can't fugue out why. Seemed ok when I took it out.
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No way mine will go straight in. I think I may need to make some checks, I expect that the thread in the chassis leg should be positioned the same both sides.
I can't see where the car has had any repairs or damage but the beam sits weird even when you put it in on its own And when you do there is no chance the diff will bolt up.
It has been rolling about a panel & paint shop on castor wheels getting a fresh coat of paint, it's all very strange...
maybe back to poly mounts is the way. It all seemed okay when I took it out.
I can't see where the car has had any repairs or damage but the beam sits weird even when you put it in on its own And when you do there is no chance the diff will bolt up.
It has been rolling about a panel & paint shop on castor wheels getting a fresh coat of paint, it's all very strange...
maybe back to poly mounts is the way. It all seemed okay when I took it out.
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Lol if only it was that easy. I live in New Zealand. If it is bent I have a load of homework to do. There won't be a 6 degree beam in the country. I wouldn't even know where to find a spare.
What cars have the same beam as 2wd Sapphire?
What cars have the same beam as 2wd Sapphire?
#17
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I guess it's all Ford Falcons over there?!
While I'm sure a Granada or Sierra isn't a common car in Oz (or NZ), would that sort of thing cost a fortune to get shipped over from Oz?
While I'm sure a Granada or Sierra isn't a common car in Oz (or NZ), would that sort of thing cost a fortune to get shipped over from Oz?
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Yeah I would have to look into it. Cost out of UK will be astronomical to the point where I could probably get a full tubular sub frame built by a local race car fabricator Within the same budget especially if I looked at getting a 6 degree beam.
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And yeah Falcons are very common here. With the Sapphire I usually get "You don't ever see these about" when you are out around town in it. And at track days I get "couldn't catch that on the straights, what is in it!"
This is why I love my old Sapphire.
This is why I love my old Sapphire.
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Back to poly is what I am thinking at this point to see where it ends up. I will dig up an old wheel alignment to see what it has to say too.
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This is what has been bothering me... The beam does go in without the diff but doesn't look square.
Left rear, see how close it is to the wheel arch
Now see the right side. Looks further back.
Does this look the same on other people's Sapphires?
Left rear, see how close it is to the wheel arch
Now see the right side. Looks further back.
Does this look the same on other people's Sapphires?
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That's my opinion but my panel beater says he measured everything using the autorobot chassis machine. I said to him it might be as much as 20 mm out and he says impossible "maybe 1mm but 20 mm is huge, no way" he said.
It also feels like if I push the left side forward the diff mount may line up. I have a day of measuring this weekend I think.
My panelbeater did do the typical rust repair work they all seem to need in the rear legs but he never had to move the beam mounting holes or the diff mounting holes. He also measured the car after the work was done.
It would be good to get some dimensions off other cars relating to the positions in my photos if possible.
It also feels like if I push the left side forward the diff mount may line up. I have a day of measuring this weekend I think.
My panelbeater did do the typical rust repair work they all seem to need in the rear legs but he never had to move the beam mounting holes or the diff mounting holes. He also measured the car after the work was done.
It would be good to get some dimensions off other cars relating to the positions in my photos if possible.
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Thanks for that Jase. that helped heaps. Looks to me like it is out on the right side looking at yours.
I also found some old wheel alignment data. Rear toe is the only inconsistent reading I see. It says left toe is +4.1mm and right toe is +0.0 mm. Left camber is -2°38' and right camber is -2°50'.
I also found some old wheel alignment data. Rear toe is the only inconsistent reading I see. It says left toe is +4.1mm and right toe is +0.0 mm. Left camber is -2°38' and right camber is -2°50'.
#29
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Having one of the beam mounts too far forward or backward would indeed only cause an issue on the toe setting. But 4 mm toe in on one side and 0 mm on the other isn't much. To cause that the beam would only need to move about 4 mm forward/backward on one side (if I didn't mess up with the calculations). If the beam was really out by 2 cm the tracking should have been about 10 mm instead of 4 mm.
If the beam mounting points are also that much out it should be clearly visible that one wheel is further back in the arch than the other.
If the beam mounting points are also that much out it should be clearly visible that one wheel is further back in the arch than the other.
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I probably exaggerate on 20mm. Those tracking figures were done when it had poly bushes in and so they probably had enough give in them to square up a bit. I won't know until I get back to measure it but perhaps the reality is close to 10mm out. The solid bushes just highlight it having no give. The new diff mount also has much less give the the soft rubber one so that won't help either.
Last edited by kiwikermit; 25-03-2015 at 04:31 PM.
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I can go back to the poly bushes and make an eccentric sleeve with the top section machined concentric and press that into the bush. That will relocate the centre of the bush. if I only need 4mm that means 2mm offset per side and it should end up nice and square.
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