moving capri hub outwards 5" with custom suspension ?
#1
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moving capri hub outwards 5" with custom suspension ?
are there any of the shelf pre made suspension components I can buy to move the hub for my capri out on the front ?
I need to get the hub away from the car about 5", I don't want to alter the top mount in the chassis, with that in mind whats the furthest I can go out ?
or i can leave the hub/suspension stock just lowered and fit a 305/35/15 tyre on a 11.5j rim on the front and keep the inner edge of the tyre in stock position, the question is how will it drive ?
i will have a lot of positive scrub radius but it will still be within the tyre contact patch on the road.
ive read up on scrub radius and capris have a lot of positive as standard so I don't think I can move the inner edge of the wheel outwards at all without moving the hub out aswell.
any thoughts or ideas welcomed, im also limited in overall front tyre diameter to about 24" as i need to keep the nose of the car down as low as possible.
I need to get the hub away from the car about 5", I don't want to alter the top mount in the chassis, with that in mind whats the furthest I can go out ?
or i can leave the hub/suspension stock just lowered and fit a 305/35/15 tyre on a 11.5j rim on the front and keep the inner edge of the tyre in stock position, the question is how will it drive ?
i will have a lot of positive scrub radius but it will still be within the tyre contact patch on the road.
ive read up on scrub radius and capris have a lot of positive as standard so I don't think I can move the inner edge of the wheel outwards at all without moving the hub out aswell.
any thoughts or ideas welcomed, im also limited in overall front tyre diameter to about 24" as i need to keep the nose of the car down as low as possible.
#2
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
are there any of the shelf pre made suspension components I can buy to move the hub for my capri out on the front ?
I need to get the hub away from the car about 5", I don't want to alter the top mount in the chassis, with that in mind whats the furthest I can go out ?
or i can leave the hub/suspension stock just lowered and fit a 305/35/15 tyre on a 11.5j rim on the front and keep the inner edge of the tyre in stock position, the question is how will it drive ?
i will have a lot of positive scrub radius but it will still be within the tyre contact patch on the road.
ive read up on scrub radius and capris have a lot of positive as standard so I don't think I can move the inner edge of the wheel outwards at all without moving the hub out aswell.
any thoughts or ideas welcomed, im also limited in overall front tyre diameter to about 24" as i need to keep the nose of the car down as low as possible.
I need to get the hub away from the car about 5", I don't want to alter the top mount in the chassis, with that in mind whats the furthest I can go out ?
or i can leave the hub/suspension stock just lowered and fit a 305/35/15 tyre on a 11.5j rim on the front and keep the inner edge of the tyre in stock position, the question is how will it drive ?
i will have a lot of positive scrub radius but it will still be within the tyre contact patch on the road.
ive read up on scrub radius and capris have a lot of positive as standard so I don't think I can move the inner edge of the wheel outwards at all without moving the hub out aswell.
any thoughts or ideas welcomed, im also limited in overall front tyre diameter to about 24" as i need to keep the nose of the car down as low as possible.
#4
Advanced PassionFord User
i very much doubt you will be able to move the hub out 5 inch without mods to top mount position , just cut the top off and plate it with adjustable top mounts that way you can also set it up for road or track etc.
it all depends on budget etc but you could use mk motorsports wrc stuff front and rear as most of the equipment is fully adjustable , or you could use the cheaper adjustable tca from comp brake etc .
if you can weld you could built your own set up with laser cut parts etc
cheers paul
it all depends on budget etc but you could use mk motorsports wrc stuff front and rear as most of the equipment is fully adjustable , or you could use the cheaper adjustable tca from comp brake etc .
if you can weld you could built your own set up with laser cut parts etc
cheers paul
#5
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Or what will the aftermath be of the rim being 4.5" wider all on the outside edge? Lowered 50mm aswell and slightly taller tyre by 10mm.
I have run big front wheels before but never 11.5j big and never as much positive scrub radius
I have run big front wheels before but never 11.5j big and never as much positive scrub radius
#6
Ben
Just develop a fancy inboard pushrod style setup
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#8
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Would have to use an adjustable top mount but that would only give u an inch or too at the top. A modified crossmember would allow u to move the tca out further although 5" would be a stretch. Compression struts could be used instead of anti roll bar. Maybe with the top mount and cross member modified u could then get away with spacers to make it up to 5".
#9
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I've just had a refresh my brain read on scrub radius and kpi, I've slammed the car 50mm so with the increased camber that should of reduced my scrub radius and slightly altered the kpi.
So with a 305 tyre on the front surely the outer edge of that tyre will either be off the ground or have little weight on it whereas the inner edge will have alot of weight on it due to camber, plus the tyre will have approx 12mm more height to it so pushing the kpi point further out.
So with a 305 tyre on the front surely the outer edge of that tyre will either be off the ground or have little weight on it whereas the inner edge will have alot of weight on it due to camber, plus the tyre will have approx 12mm more height to it so pushing the kpi point further out.
Last edited by scoooby slayer; 29-12-2014 at 05:23 PM.
#10
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
The top mount is just mk2 escort with a couple of top hats made up for the top of the strut and a made up rose jointed TCA or you could lengthen the orginal one.
https://passionford.com/forum/restor...-cosworth.html
#11
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The sierra leg already sits at more of an angle than a capri leg, the capri leg is more up right. if you look at the photo of mine under the bonnet you can see how far the top mounts had to come in to get the hub in the same place as a std cortina/capri type strut. The sierra strut and hub is a lot stronger than a capri and you can run cossy brakes.
The top mount is just mk2 escort with a couple of top hats made up for the top of the strut and a made up rose jointed TCA or you could lengthen the orginal one.
https://passionford.com/forum/restor...-cosworth.html
The top mount is just mk2 escort with a couple of top hats made up for the top of the strut and a made up rose jointed TCA or you could lengthen the orginal one.
https://passionford.com/forum/restor...-cosworth.html
do you know what scrub radius you run ?
if its a lot longer it will mess me up as I need to keep the car low.
the original cars ran a 10j front rim anyway so I may be ok with 11.5j fronts, i suppose i better see what size tyres are available for 9j rims and see if theres any at 23.4" diameter.
original capri tyres are 22.7" total diameter freakin tiny lol
#13
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lovely wheel spacers
I know first hand what shit like that feels like to drive I did it with my Dutton, its nothing short of a death trap which I put down to my scrub radius, the datum point on that wasn't even in the tyre contact area it was like a shopping trolley lmao
I know first hand what shit like that feels like to drive I did it with my Dutton, its nothing short of a death trap which I put down to my scrub radius, the datum point on that wasn't even in the tyre contact area it was like a shopping trolley lmao
#14
Live long and prosper!!
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Just an idea but could you not modify a Cortina mk5 subframe and use longer custom upper and lower arms?
you could still use similar brakes and you could use a small coilover type shock aswell.
top and bottom ball joints can have slotted mounts to adjust camber.
Paul
you could still use similar brakes and you could use a small coilover type shock aswell.
top and bottom ball joints can have slotted mounts to adjust camber.
Paul
#17
If the car just uses double wishbone layout, then surely easiest way to gain track, is just make longer wishbones ?
Or maybe a combination of wishbones, driving flange, spacer, wheel offset small bits in each
Or maybe a combination of wishbones, driving flange, spacer, wheel offset small bits in each
#19
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
you wont get 5 inches using any standard suspension parts.
you can gain about 2 inches at a push using adjustable tca's eccentric top mounts and grp4 alloy hubs which are about 12mm wider and machine in front bearing and space rear and you can get another few mm
you'll probably end up converting front to coilover as standard spring cups will foul tires on anything bigger than a 205/50/15
you can gain about 2 inches at a push using adjustable tca's eccentric top mounts and grp4 alloy hubs which are about 12mm wider and machine in front bearing and space rear and you can get another few mm
you'll probably end up converting front to coilover as standard spring cups will foul tires on anything bigger than a 205/50/15
#21
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you wont get 5 inches using any standard suspension parts.
you can gain about 2 inches at a push using adjustable tca's eccentric top mounts and grp4 alloy hubs which are about 12mm wider and machine in front bearing and space rear and you can get another few mm
you'll probably end up converting front to coilover as standard spring cups will foul tires on anything bigger than a 205/50/15
you can gain about 2 inches at a push using adjustable tca's eccentric top mounts and grp4 alloy hubs which are about 12mm wider and machine in front bearing and space rear and you can get another few mm
you'll probably end up converting front to coilover as standard spring cups will foul tires on anything bigger than a 205/50/15
With regard to the spring cup 205/60/13 tyres are 22.7" total height and there's about 1" clearance, 305/35/15 tyres are 23.4" so should easily clear and give me the width I need as long as the car is low enough.
#22
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So basically that would replace the front crossmember and complete front suspension, I may need to go that route if the car isn't low enough, but my dilemma will then be can I bring myself to hack up the chassis/inner wings? I don't think I could Id probably have to sell my current capri and buy a basket case and can then cut it to pieces and alter what i like. From where the prices seem to be I think my capri is worth Ł5k+ due to 55k miles full history and very tidy
#23
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Just cut it up lol. Thats a nice suspension set up in the pics. If you put longer bottom arms on i think you will defo have a fair bit of camber.
Would/does the front cross member just unbolt then bolt that suspension set up straight on?
Would/does the front cross member just unbolt then bolt that suspension set up straight on?
#24
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So basically that would replace the front crossmember and complete front suspension, I may need to go that route if the car isn't low enough, but my dilemma will then be can I bring myself to hack up the chassis/inner wings? I don't think I could Id probably have to sell my current capri and buy a basket case and can then cut it to pieces and alter what i like. From where the prices seem to be I think my capri is worth Ł5k+ due to 55k miles full history and very tidy
I don't really see a need to cut up the shell, could you not mod this type of setup to pick up the original pickup points on the front legs and run a couple of braces to the anti roll bar points on the front and the strut towers?
#26
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now the kit is all here that's the next thing ive gotta check without hacking the car up, I shall measure the stock wings current height then measure the new wing and check ground clearance, the limit is 4" clearance so if I got 5" or below I may go for it and just run a small splitter on the front upto 1" depth.
if its higher than that then I may have to sell this capri and buy another cheaper one, ive already got 1 potential buyer been pestering me for the car.
but that is last resort as its gonna turn the project into ALOT more work than I was planning on.
#28
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I don't want to but if I have to I will, will 100% be a different shell though I cant/wont do that to the one ive got its proper mint lol
ive just been looking about and turdis 2.8s start at Ł2k and that's pretty much a pile of shit to start with in reality !
im praying I can get it low enough without all that, I shall try to make time next week to have a measure up.
Last edited by scoooby slayer; 02-01-2015 at 07:53 PM.
#29
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or I gotta look at air suspension just on the front as an alternative maybe
the base of the front bumper/splitter must have 4" clearance as that's what my gtr has and imo its low enough to look good and still clear all speedbumps
that's how the front must look on the capri no exceptions, the rear I don't mind abit higher
the base of the front bumper/splitter must have 4" clearance as that's what my gtr has and imo its low enough to look good and still clear all speedbumps
that's how the front must look on the capri no exceptions, the rear I don't mind abit higher
Last edited by scoooby slayer; 02-01-2015 at 08:38 PM.
#30
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
dont forget how much over hang on front the capri will have compared to GTR mine only has an rs splitter and rubs on stuff,
and 2.8 prices have gone bit crazy lately yours could easily make 7k and solid ones needing outer panels go for 3k but wont bother you to much
and 2.8 prices have gone bit crazy lately yours could easily make 7k and solid ones needing outer panels go for 3k but wont bother you to much
#34
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It's worth registering on Turbosport just to see this thread
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=164320
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=164320
#37
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ive just been and had a measure and front bumper will be 6" off the ground, I can add a 1" splitter to that I think to get it down to 5" clearance.
the cross beam has under 4" of ground clearance so really it physically cant go any lower without modification to the crossbeam and raiseing the tunnel aswell.
my other option is modding the kit to suit somehow by getting the kit to sit lower, and altering the arches so the arch is snug around the tyre.
the cross beam has under 4" of ground clearance so really it physically cant go any lower without modification to the crossbeam and raiseing the tunnel aswell.
my other option is modding the kit to suit somehow by getting the kit to sit lower, and altering the arches so the arch is snug around the tyre.
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