Martin-Hadland

iTrader: (2)

I read it as if you were saying it's not as good, which I don't agree with.

jamie956

Right a bit of an update now have the car running and driving but still have issues , its difficult to get into gear when cold and crunchy to get reverse, once up to temp forward gears ok but sometimes a little difficult during a change and reverse 50/50 if it gos in.

Box has been recon'ed everything else new so im thinking I still need more travel on the fork which means a 0.75 master cylinder any one else had to go to this size.

Sonic Boom

iTrader: (11)

Yep I run a 0.75 master cylinder on mine it's quite heavy in comparsion to the 0.625 but works very well.
Rich

jamie956

Still struggling with this fitted a .75 master cylinder and still the same may be in my head but seams as if its getting worse.

Can not get reverse now with engine running, you can also feel car try to move when you put it in first this is with the clutch peddle to the floor which is what's making me think its not enough fork travel.

every thing is adjusted up so as soon as you push the peddle you get movement on the fork and getting plenty of travel on the MC.

Could it be a box or clutch issue, shifter is also a after market pro type could this be the problem.

jamie956

Anyone its doing my head in now

ajamesc

Dose seem a little odd! Have you mounted the slave the same as others going by the few pics that are on this sight? There's a few using slaves of that size with out a problem! It's not some thing silly like the clutch plate sticking on the splines and not realising fully is it

jamie956

Slave cylinder was fitted to the belle housing by Rayland so all in the right place,

Not sure how the clutch plate could be sticking it dose drive so would have freed it off if stuck.

ajamesc

If the plate is stiff on the splines and don't slide on them very well it can not disengage fully letting drive through the box. Making it feel like the clutch is not working. Just a thought

jamie956

Yer see what your saying I think im getting good travel on the clutch fork so there's gotta be something else going on, its all new clutch, bearing, fork and rebuilt box so even if it all comes apart again don't think I will be able to see anything wrong.

stevieturbo

So were the plates free on the splines ?

jamie956

To be honist i never checked the clutch plate on the gearbox shaft before i put it all together but the box slid on and off a pice of piss, if the splines on the shaft or in the plate where damaged i think you would have felt resistance getting the box on,

ajamesc

Not always as the weigh of pushing the box in can hide it.
It only takes for it to be a little stiff and it will hold against the flywheel with the clutch released. I see it a fair bit at work

jamie956

Right the mystery continues, pulled the box off checked everything and it looks good plate slides nicely on the main shaft.

So thought I would try another clutch fitted a used standard one, now when I had the helix paddle in there was approx 20mm movement back and forth on the fork with the standard one in the fork is pushed hard up against the back of the hole in the belle housing, I can now get all gears but the clutch slips really bad normal driving, so im thinking the bearing is pushing on the cover all the time.

I really cant understand it

stevieturbo

So the installed height of the two is completely different ?

Is it a standard fork and release bearing ?..and correct ones ?

jamie956

Yep std fork modded by rayland for the hyd slave, fork and release bearing brought from Burton.

Measured the depth of the covers both laid flat on the bench measured from the bench to the surface the bearing sits on and the std used cover is approx 4-5mm taller than the new helix.

stevieturbo

you need to measure the installed height.

ie cover bolted to flywheel with plate installed. The height of the clutch fingers is what matters in this respect.

Martin-Hadland

iTrader: (2)

The installed height will be near enough the same, my kit works perfectly with a Helix, AP or std clutch cover.

jamie956

Hi Martin

Was gonna give you a call Monday to try figure out what's going on,

With the slave off and the helix clutch in there is about 20mm movement back a forth I think this is normal, with the slave on it pushes the bearing onto the cover. with a .75 master it pushes the slave out about 1'' not sure if this is the slave travel maxing out or the limit of the push from the MS, like this bite is on the floor forward gears go in but not nice and no chance of reverse so not enugh push on cover.

With the slave off and a standard but used clutch in the fork is pushed hard up against the back of the belle housing hole, belle housing wouldn't sit against block tight needed the bolts to pull it up making me think the bearing is pushing on the cover, when driven all gears easy to get in but bite right at the top clutch slips bad driving no boost.

markk

iTrader: (2)

Most clutches only need the release bearing to move approx 5mm from fully engaged to disengaged, sounds like this may be the route of your problem.

NB. this is bearing not fork movement.

jamie956

Well that's what I thought hence trying a different clutch, just cant figure out why the fork can move with one clutch in but be pushed back with another.

Martin-Hadland

iTrader: (2)

Give me a call but I think it needs looking at by someone experienced so that the fault can be spotted straight away.

stevieturbo

Measure installed height relative to bellhousing face ( ie block face. )

Then you have a reference point for both clutch fingers, and the release bearing and where it needs to be when installed, but foot not touching the pedal.

Obviously at rest with all hydraulics retracted, there should be no pressure on the fingers at all. There should be some clearance, even 5-10mm to account for heating up and future wear etc.

By design, a hydraulic setup will naturally take up this slack in operation.

Clearly whatever combination of parts you have used the second time around is leaving the clutch cover with pressure on it.

The set of parts you used first time, appears the fingers have been far too far away and you arent getting enough travel/release

Something is very different between the two setups.

jamie956

Yes thinking I need to bring it up to you would you want it all apart (box out) or put back together with the helix in.

Martin-Hadland

iTrader: (2)

Bring it box out and I will take a look, I've sold hundreds of these over the years and problems rarely ever occur so it should be an easy spot to find the problem.

jamie956

Do you think you can look at it this week?

markk

iTrader: (2)