Galaxy warning lights
#1
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
Galaxy warning lights
Any body know what "workshop alternator" means?
And also when started from cold it takes up to 5 min before engaging drive or 234 it's auto but reverse engages straight away it's a 1.9 TDI
CHEERS
And also when started from cold it takes up to 5 min before engaging drive or 234 it's auto but reverse engages straight away it's a 1.9 TDI
CHEERS
#6
Advanced PassionFord User
No probs mate let me know how you get on. It's always good to post up when you get it fixed as if someone is having similar issues it lets them know what you done to resolve the issue.
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#9
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
Right I've managed to get round to change fuse box and she fires up with a jump start but drives in limp mode no power for wipers etc and dead when you turn off n on again?
I didn't change alternator cable just cleaned it up and bolted it on as wire didn't look fooked!
Should I change it any way?
And where do you find the part no or even a pic of alternator cable on net???
Cheers
I didn't change alternator cable just cleaned it up and bolted it on as wire didn't look fooked!
Should I change it any way?
And where do you find the part no or even a pic of alternator cable on net???
Cheers
#14
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
Got myself a multimeter but no clue how to use it??
Can anyone simplify what setting to use and where to take readings from on alternator cheers
Can anyone simplify what setting to use and where to take readings from on alternator cheers
#17
The annoying ginger guy
iTrader: (2)
Both test it first and write down the ready before you start it, then start it up and test it while its running and write that down, then switch it off and put on the ignition and all the lights and heating test it straight away and write that reading down and then again after 5 minutes of the battery being under load
#19
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
Both test it first and write down the ready before you start it, then start it up and test it while its running and write that down, then switch it off and put on the ignition and all the lights and heating test it straight away and write that reading down and then again after 5 minutes of the battery being under load
So far she's dead to start with and showing -7.18
After jump start and running it's -6.01
With lights on etc ( nothing working) it's -6.34
Nothing working as no power for wipers lights etc just drops a few revs the rev counter not even moving ?
Turn off and flat again with -7.50
How would I know if it's the alternator or just the cable from alternator to fuse box as I haven't changed this yet??
#20
The annoying ginger guy
iTrader: (2)
Firstly check the to make sure the pulley is still attached to the alternator as these tend to rip apart the inside of the pulley, if that's ok the place the black wire(negative) to any earth point under the car, and the red(positive) to the output on the back of the alternator while its running
#23
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
On the thread above they say the cable cost him about £18 in 2005 mine just cost me £51:45 with vat!
Pity the galaxy don't go up in price like parts do
Pity the galaxy don't go up in price like parts do
#25
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
Firstly check the to make sure the pulley is still attached to the alternator as these tend to rip apart the inside of the pulley, if that's ok the place the black wire(negative) to any earth point under the car, and the red(positive) to the output on the back of the alternator while its running
I'm getting 6.37 with everything on and engine running
I take it by this it's a new alternator needed!
#29
sounds like theyre well known for these things then , turned off my 2.0 Diesel 2006 Galaxy yesterday after an long run ,when i came back to it ti would crank and splutter but not go ,done the same this morning bloody thing !!
#30
10K+ Poster!!
iTrader: (2)
Some real fundamentals of auto electrical testing missing here guys.
A) Use multi meter and obtain a battery reference voltage, no pint in measuring the alternator if you have no idea what the battery voltage is. Measure the battery (20v scale over the battery terminal everything switched off) If you have not got over 12v stay here until you have - recharge the battery to begin with.
B) When the ignition is switched on (eng off) does the battery light illuminate? if not you will not excite the alternators field current, believe it or not, that battery light is very important!
C) If the battery light illuminated (ign on) start the car, at the 8mm bolt(13mm nut size) measure the voltage right from the alternator to the battery negative, this should be around 14v (eng running)
If you can meet all the above with positive outcomes e.g. battery at 12v, battery light working ign off, extinguishes when engine running the it will be the alternator, providing the alternator is being driven correctly mechanically.
When the free wheeling clutch fails the alt looks like its spinning, the pulley will be spinning but loss of drive the alternator rotor will occur.
I think that should just about do it!
A) Use multi meter and obtain a battery reference voltage, no pint in measuring the alternator if you have no idea what the battery voltage is. Measure the battery (20v scale over the battery terminal everything switched off) If you have not got over 12v stay here until you have - recharge the battery to begin with.
B) When the ignition is switched on (eng off) does the battery light illuminate? if not you will not excite the alternators field current, believe it or not, that battery light is very important!
C) If the battery light illuminated (ign on) start the car, at the 8mm bolt(13mm nut size) measure the voltage right from the alternator to the battery negative, this should be around 14v (eng running)
If you can meet all the above with positive outcomes e.g. battery at 12v, battery light working ign off, extinguishes when engine running the it will be the alternator, providing the alternator is being driven correctly mechanically.
When the free wheeling clutch fails the alt looks like its spinning, the pulley will be spinning but loss of drive the alternator rotor will occur.
I think that should just about do it!
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