Gadget

Well, Cosworth managed Fiesta RS turbo but same problem

I recently fitted a weber conversion onto a fiesta, originally i had fitted the conversion onto and Escort Turbo and all was well, ran spot on.
The Escort owner broke the car and the Fiesta owner bought the conversion.

I fitted it all as normal but said to the owner, why don't we use the MSD wasted spark kit to retain the coilpack, so we purchased the kit and i fitted it all.
Problem is that i am getting no spark whatsover so i first assumed that maybe i'd made a mistake with the wasted spark side, checked the wiring again ( which is only to cut the original ignition amp plug off and fit the 5 wires to a plug supplied by MSD to connect to their loom! ) and that was all good.
For peice of mind, i sent the ecu to MSD for them to check, they removed the driver, re soldered it and mounted it and checked the ecu on a car and all was good.

The loom pins out just as it should, the relays are working and wired as they should be, i've sent the ignition amps to my mate who tried them on his car, they both work, i've tried another coilpack.
The crank and cam sensors are both new Weber ones from MSD, the gaps are good and readings are good.
I've gone through the following list and put my results in BLUE


1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. 13.3v
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. 4.95v
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. 1.6v
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. 0.07v
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. 4.75v
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. 639 ohms
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. 2.5v
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. 637 ohms
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. 1.8v
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. 3.8v so a little low but checked to the negative on the battery aso and the reading is the same
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click. Yes, it energises!
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs. Pump runs
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)

I didn't bother with the injector tests as the plugs are getting wet so working, or with coolant / air sensor checks as these won't affect the spark..

Any ideas on what else to try as i'm pretty stuck now, i'm considering removing the wasted spark loom, and re wiring the single ignition amp and coil wires, fitting a dizzy to try my mates ecu on the old style system.

Any input greatly appreciated, Gary

Gadget

Bit more info
The ignition amps all have good connections ( using the MSD new loom )
Pin 1 on each amp goes to the outer connection on the coilpack plug
Pin 2 Good earth
Pin 3 to pin 24 on the ecu and is earth with ignition on or off
pin 4 Ignition live
Pin 5 empty
Pin 6 on Amp 1 to pin 25 on the ecu and is earth with ignition on or off
on Amp 2 to pin 26 on the ecu and is earth with ignition on or off but drops half when on???
Pin 7 empty.

I get the ignition live to the centre pin on the coilpack plug.


I noticed earlier that after i had been cranking for a bit to check if the plugs were getting wet, after i'd stopped cranking, the fuel pump relay was clicking like mad and the pump running, i removed the relay and re fitted it and it carried on. I left it for a minute to see if it stopped but it carried on.
I keyed off, back on and it was fine. cranked again but it didn't do it again??