Laying Block Paving.
17-03-2005, 05:13 PM
#4
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Hire a whacker plate thingy. Its a bastard to compact the sand evenly by hand.
I only did a patio about 6x12ft. Wouldnt tackle anything bigger without one.
I only did a patio about 6x12ft. Wouldnt tackle anything bigger without one.
17-03-2005, 05:26 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by BillyCabrio
What sand do i use for the base Tiff? Sharp sand?
I know to use (i think) 1 part cement to 2 parts builders sand for the sweep oce and into the cracks. Please correct me if i'm wrong?
I know to use (i think) 1 part cement to 2 parts builders sand for the sweep oce and into the cracks. Please correct me if i'm wrong?
Ok assuming its a drive.
Remove 200mm of the old drive.
With either a heavy roller or wacker plate, compact the ground.
Fill 100mm of the drive with 2inch to dust limestone. Preferably in 50mm layers, again compacted.
Then fill another 55mm of the drive with grit sand(for driveline 50 blocks or 45mm sand for 60mm blocks). This needs compacting with the wacker again.(prob need to add more sand after compacting) Then once this is compacted, it needs to be screeded off PERFECTLY flat using a straight edge, and needs to be spot on 45mm(or 55) below the finished height of the blocks everywhere.
Then you can start laying the blocks working on the blocks you have just laid as you go(so ya dont step into the perfectly screeded sand).
Once all the blocks are laid then you brush KILN DRIED SAND into the joints, leaving a 2 0r 3mm covering all over the blocks. Blocking must be dry as a bone when doing this.
You then wacker the drive going up and down, side to side. This compacts the blocks, and shakes the kiln dried sand down the joints to make them solid.
Finish off by sweeping all the excess sand off.
HTH. Its harder than it looks....and tommy walsh is a wanker BTW..he lays paving slabs directly on muck
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17-03-2005, 06:07 PM
#13
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The edges of the paving. If they are not against a wall or other solid surface they will spread open when the wacker goes close to the edge. In other words the blocks will move and big gaps will open in between them.
17-03-2005, 06:09 PM
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17-03-2005, 06:14 PM
#15
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Thanks Tiff
No worries, anymore questions just ask. Ben is right, if ya have edges of the block paving that are not up to anything solid, ie walls or other paths etc, then ya must either concrete up to the end blocks(this must set before the final whacking) or you can put in concrete edgings(these must go in before you put the limestone in and again, must be set before ya start filling in).
If its just in a garden, you can reduce the limestone to 50mm, so reduce the dig to suit.
Preparation is the key mate. The sand must be level as fook, as once the blocks are compacted, it will old water and look a cooonts
PS Gareth is a sparky.
So thats 3 of us
Im a brickie by trade, but i did an old apprenticship where i layed fook all bricks and did all the other jobs, which at time i hated, but now im glad a did it as i can turn my hand to most trades
No worries, anymore questions just ask. Ben is right, if ya have edges of the block paving that are not up to anything solid, ie walls or other paths etc, then ya must either concrete up to the end blocks(this must set before the final whacking) or you can put in concrete edgings(these must go in before you put the limestone in and again, must be set before ya start filling in).
If its just in a garden, you can reduce the limestone to 50mm, so reduce the dig to suit.
Preparation is the key mate. The sand must be level as fook, as once the blocks are compacted, it will old water and look a cooonts PS Gareth is a sparky.
So thats 3 of us Im a brickie by trade, but i did an old apprenticship where i layed fook all bricks and did all the other jobs, which at time i hated, but now im glad a did it as i can turn my hand to most trades
17-03-2005, 06:15 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by RSBen
The edges of the paving. If they are not against a wall or other solid surface they will spread open when the wacker goes close to the edge. In other words the blocks will move and big gaps will open in between them.
We have just priced up for 5 drives that have been layed with no solid edgings and spread....put a silly price in too as we dont wanna do em really, but if we get em then its good mahoney
17-03-2005, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by zvhturbo
17-03-2005, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
Originally Posted by RSBen
The edges of the paving. If they are not against a wall or other solid surface they will spread open when the wacker goes close to the edge. In other words the blocks will move and big gaps will open in between them.
We have just priced up for 5 drives that have been layed with no solid edgings and spread....put a silly price in too as we dont wanna do em really, but if we get em then its good mahoney
17-03-2005, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BillyCabrio
Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
Not a bad little website tho...although as Ben, those block cutter are shite. Still saw and diamond blade is THE only way.
17-03-2005, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
Hire one without a blade, then buy a cheap blade off ebay for about 15 quid...as the hire shops charge you by the mm and it aint cheap 
17-03-2005, 08:21 PM
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Lee,just been quoted £3300 to have 65 sq mtrs block paved with clay blocks,price includes all prep work,removal of the shit plus putting in about 20 foot of
those grid/drain things cause drive is on a slope.
Is this price about right m8????????
those grid/drain things
cause drive is on a slope.Is this price about right m8????????
17-03-2005, 08:24 PM
#30
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Yes that sounds a fair price mate. In fact, we have just got one, which has got about 10 meters of aco drains, and is 90sq meters in total...and we priced that at 4200....so yours sounds about right!
17-03-2005, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
one of these
Remember you did set yourself alight with a 4" angle grinder
17-03-2005, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BillyCabrio
So we have a plumber and a builder, any sparkies, chippies or plasters on here?
I know Pops is the decorator.
I know Pops is the decorator.
17-03-2005, 08:44 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by chRiS & dawn
That price is about right m8.
I run my own landscaping business and would price it similar to that.
Chris
I run my own landscaping business and would price it similar to that.
Chris
Christ....you work cheap then mate....the price i said above is cash...if it was buisness and with tax and vat it would be nearly double
17-03-2005, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
Yes that sounds a fair price mate. In fact, we have just got one, which has got about 10 meters of aco drains, and is 90sq meters in total...and we priced that at 4200....so yours sounds about right!
Am getting some more quotes but just wondered if that was about the
right price.
Thanks
17-03-2005, 08:56 PM
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That price would be without vat.
I wouldn't get many driveways round here pricing double that.
Still a good profit for less than a weeks work. You brickies must be making a mint lol.
Chris
I wouldn't get many driveways round here pricing double that.
Still a good profit for less than a weeks work. You brickies must be making a mint lol.
Chris
17-03-2005, 10:21 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by chRiS & dawn
That price would be without vat.
I wouldn't get many driveways round here pricing double that.
Still a good profit for less than a weeks work. You brickies must be making a mint lol.
Chris
I wouldn't get many driveways round here pricing double that.
Still a good profit for less than a weeks work. You brickies must be making a mint lol.
Chris
Tis a good profit tho for about 3 days work for 2. The materials in Coskevs job id estimate at about 1k, so rests a good earner
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