WANTED: Water flow diagram of an ESCORT COSWORTH
11-03-2005, 04:39 PM
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WANTED: Water flow diagram of an ESCORT COSWORTH
as title please 
put a brand new thermostat in car and pectel monitor shows temps of 93 but water still not flowing through rad
also whats the best way to bleed system on 4wd?????
put a brand new thermostat in car and pectel monitor shows temps of 93 but water still not flowing through rad
also whats the best way to bleed system on 4wd?????
11-03-2005, 04:59 PM
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Re: WANTED: Water flow diagram of an ESCORT COSWORTH
Originally Posted by Spiky
as title please
put a brand new thermostat in car and pectel monitor shows temps of 93 but water still not flowing through rad
also whats the best way to bleed system on 4wd?????
put a brand new thermostat in car and pectel monitor shows temps of 93 but water still not flowing through rad
also whats the best way to bleed system on 4wd?????
Example: My secs monitor gives me a reading of 91-92° C while the stat is still closed.
11-03-2005, 05:03 PM
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Edited above.......
My stat opens when the temp at the head (SECS reading) is 91-92° C.
..........i.e. if I feel the hose to the left of the trermostat and then the moment it get warm (flow) I then look at the SECS monitor ...I see 92-93° C
My stat opens when the temp at the head (SECS reading) is 91-92° C.
..........i.e. if I feel the hose to the left of the trermostat and then the moment it get warm (flow) I then look at the SECS monitor ...I see 92-93° C
11-03-2005, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ImaRacing 700
------------>
ok cheers doug,
just found a post where it says how to bleed, so will go give it a try
11-03-2005, 05:23 PM
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Spiky,
Firstly, SLOW fill the cooling system with heater controls on max heat setting and with the thetmostat bleed bolt removed (the bolt on top of stat housing), as you start to see water coming out of the bolt hole, put the bolt back in. Then fill the header tank to the correct level (minimum line)....now, with the header tank cap OFF, run the engine up to temp at tick-over.....monitor water level and top up as required while the engine is running. Only replace the cap when the temp reading is showing "normal"
Firstly, SLOW fill the cooling system with heater controls on max heat setting and with the thetmostat bleed bolt removed (the bolt on top of stat housing), as you start to see water coming out of the bolt hole, put the bolt back in. Then fill the header tank to the correct level (minimum line)....now, with the header tank cap OFF, run the engine up to temp at tick-over.....monitor water level and top up as required while the engine is running. Only replace the cap when the temp reading is showing "normal"
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11-03-2005, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug Stirling
Spiky,
Firstly, SLOW fill the cooling system with heater controls on max heat setting and with the thetmostat bleed bolt removed (the bolt on top of stat housing), as you start to see water coming out of the bolt hole, put the bolt back in. Then fill the header tank to the correct level (minimum line)....now, with the header tank cap OFF, run the engine up to temp at tick-over.....monitor water level and top up as required while the engine is running. Only replace the cap when the temp reading is showing "normal"
Firstly, SLOW fill the cooling system with heater controls on max heat setting and with the thetmostat bleed bolt removed (the bolt on top of stat housing), as you start to see water coming out of the bolt hole, put the bolt back in. Then fill the header tank to the correct level (minimum line)....now, with the header tank cap OFF, run the engine up to temp at tick-over.....monitor water level and top up as required while the engine is running. Only replace the cap when the temp reading is showing "normal"
no heaters in mine
whats NORMAL temp??? as i have pectel monitor and a VDO temp gauge
85ish???
11-03-2005, 05:36 PM
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surely it can't be much above 93 then???
i'll start it up again tomorrow then, and at 93 i'll see if the left hand pipe gets warm
at what temp should i shut it down IF there is a problem???, as i did see 96, but i was on the move and have no idea if the t/stat was open.
i'll start it up again tomorrow then, and at 93 i'll see if the left hand pipe gets warm
at what temp should i shut it down IF there is a problem???, as i did see 96, but i was on the move and have no idea if the t/stat was open.
11-03-2005, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Spiky
at what temp should i shut it down IF there is a problem???
I would say that if the fans dont kick in at 98°C then shut engine down.
11-03-2005, 05:46 PM
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All the above is relative to an ES Cos road car...........I dont know if a comp/rally car like yours would be the same.....best to ask Markk
Also, dont forget to put in good quality ANTI-FREEZE (min 25%) to protect the head/stop the block cracking/core plugs popping out in icey nights
Also, dont forget to put in good quality ANTI-FREEZE (min 25%) to protect the head/stop the block cracking/core plugs popping out in icey nights
11-03-2005, 05:50 PM
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it should be
as i have std rad fans and std thermostat
my fans are manually wired up
ok, so if i see more than 98 degrees i'll shut it down
Doug Stirling,
thanks for this, means a lot passenger ride with your name on is booked
as i have std rad fans and std thermostat
my fans are manually wired up
ok, so if i see more than 98 degrees i'll shut it down
Doug Stirling,
thanks for this, means a lot
passenger ride with your name on is booked
11-03-2005, 06:17 PM
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Just a minor thing i was told and have tried....
The rad system will bleed better if the front end of the car is raised 3 or 4 inches
to allow the air to move forward through the head towards through the bleed point
on the thermostat housing.
The rad system will bleed better if the front end of the car is raised 3 or 4 inches
to allow the air to move forward through the head towards through the bleed point
on the thermostat housing.
11-03-2005, 08:34 PM
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check the pipes that used to feed the heater matrix, these are VERY CRUCIAL on there hight in relation to the header tank , you must try and keep all the hoses as far below the header tanks level as posibble other wise you will create an air lock in thehighest hose and thus prevent circulation
i used to have a hose , the one that runs round the back of the head , quite high in fact it went over the top of the rocker cover because my engine is further back than a std unit and in how weather this would basically steam up inside because there was no flow , happened to me at croft last year hence the water spueing out of my bonnet vent , i have now fitted a round header tank nr teh battery and the heater hose runs around the front of the engine not over the top, i still have a heater and WOULD not be without one , how do you clear your screen when it rains ?
i used to have a hose , the one that runs round the back of the head , quite high in fact it went over the top of the rocker cover because my engine is further back than a std unit and in how weather this would basically steam up inside because there was no flow , happened to me at croft last year hence the water spueing out of my bonnet vent
, i have now fitted a round header tank nr teh battery and the heater hose runs around the front of the engine not over the top, i still have a heater and WOULD not be without one , how do you clear your screen when it rains ?
11-03-2005, 10:38 PM
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my header tank is where the battery was too 
the reason the heater isn'y connected is that it is a non std ford item and it leaks, it was connected but as it leaked i bypassed it.
just need to find a heater that will fit for now.
as for clearing the windscreen, it has a heated window, i know this isn't suffiecent, but as the car is only now being put on the road, i just need to sort the niggly problems
the reason the heater isn'y connected is that it is a non std ford item and it leaks, it was connected but as it leaked i bypassed it.
just need to find a heater that will fit for now.
as for clearing the windscreen, it has a heated window, i know this isn't suffiecent, but as the car is only now being put on the road, i just need to sort the niggly problems
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