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Prep work for paint?

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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:36 PM
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Default Prep work for paint?

Hello,

Ok so I've been trying to save cash for paint for the cossie, i really want this on the road but just dont have the money for paint!

So to save cash ive been thinking to prep the car a little by sanding it down how do i go about this?

I was thinking something like 180 grit down to bare metal then go with something finer ?

Thanks.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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mark all the dents with black marker sand them with the 180 fill sand ,rest of car use scotch brite an flating past unless it all needs reprimering
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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180 is a bit coarse IMO, better with something like 240.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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It's hard to say with out seeing the car, but I don't need to go to bare metal.

Start off by sorting out all rust, car park dinks ect do this by going round and round the car highlighting every single thing.

Tackle each area panel 1 at a time, once everything is done flat the car with 800 wet and dry. Panel wipe area, then by 2k primer ask at paint shop what they recommend as you can roll/brush this on. It's a bastard to flat down but it's cheap. To flat use 600 wet and dry. Then it's ready for paint. Always best to remove all glass too

Hope this helps mate
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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If you want more info let me know
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:45 PM
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So find all the dents and gets them all gone, what can i use to pull some dents out with?

Scotch brite all over the car? Would i not need something a little more gritty?
How far back do i need to sand to?
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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^ If you have more info write it dude - i'm very interested, i have a black truck in need of a (diy) paint job!
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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^ I cant get this right so ill have to let the painting shop do this. ^

Hope them pictures help, its in need of alot of love as ive not touched the car in a year

Im a little lost in "flat" the car, i always thought you had to remove the old paint down to its old primer to have a respray?
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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Yea you will need more than scotch pads on that.

What I mean by more info, is that if there is anything you want to know or unsure of let me know.

I'll try and help best I can
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:58 PM
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any panel that the paint is not pealing or scratched scotch ,use 180 grit on the scratches and dents apply easy sand filler to dents ,sand with a flat block and primer ,wet flat the primed area with 1000grint im a painter so pm if you need any info
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by :hEnNiKeR:
^ If you have more info write it dude - i'm very interested, i have a black truck in need of a (diy) paint job!
Depending what finish you want you could always roller paint your truck.
You could do it for Ł60 ish finish can be good just never great.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dingla rs
any panel that the paint is not pealing or scratched scotch ,use 180 grit on the scratches and dents apply easy sand filler to dents ,sand with a flat block and primer ,wet flat the primed area with 1000grint im a painter so pm if you need any info
If he rolls the primer on, he would need more than 1000.

And rattle can primer will react with top coat, needs a full primer looking at the condition of it
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by theburns1
If he rolls the primer on, he would need more than 1000.

And rattle can primer will react with top coat, needs a full primer looking at the condition of it

il leave my 16 years of painting info out then mate
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dingla rs
il leave my 16 years of painting info out then mate
Wasn't a dig just thought you may of missed I said roll on primer, I know what I'm talking about too
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by theburns1
Depending what finish you want you could always roller paint your truck.
You could do it for Ł60 ish finish can be good just never great.
Lol, nah ive a certain amount of pride when it comes to finish, it is my old off roader for sure but i'd rather leave it be than roller it - ive seen peoples attempts at it and i wouldnt be happy
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by :hEnNiKeR:
Lol, nah ive a certain amount of pride when it comes to finish, it is my old off roader for sure but i'd rather leave it be than roller it - ive seen peoples attempts at it and i wouldnt be happy
Lol I tried it only did 1 coat on 1 side, flatted back down and did it properly.

Most body shops charge Ł500 just to paint and bake which is a rip off.

Check my thread in pics and videos when I painted my car.

Prep is what makes the final product though, and bad paint finish can be resolved with flat and polish
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:53 PM
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Rattle can primer should be ok with basecoat/lacquer,after all you generally use can etch primer on bare metal just before you paint anyway.
I'd be careful eigdoog doing it yourself,you could end up costing yourself more in the end if you do the filler work badly and don't quite get all the old paint off first,after all the bodyshop won't be too impressed if they get reactions and will certainly blame you,I would have in my old place!!!!
One suggestion is to get someone from a bodyshop to do the prep in the nights/weekends for cash in hand then pay for a good topcoat/cut and polish job on it.
Looking at it as is I'm gonna say about Ł1500-Ł2000 to paint it up decently, just to stick a top coat on half that,maybe less.
Worth repairing though,looks a great car.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dingla rs
any panel that the paint is not pealing or scratched scotch ,use 180 grit on the scratches and dents apply easy sand filler to dents ,sand with a flat block and primer ,wet flat the primed area with 1000grint im a painter so pm if you need any info
+1... This is wot you need to do. The only thing I'd roll is my front room lol. High build primer is the bollocks as well love the stuff
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 09:04 PM
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Ok so BMW are wrong to roll on primer in there body shops, most body shops are using roll on primer.

As I said I know what I'm talking about

He said cheap, to spray 2k primer will cost him more
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 09:26 PM
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To get a consistent amount of paint or primer on a panel the best way to go is spray it on. Or spend hours and hours hand flatting a rolled panel.
I also no what I'm talking about lol
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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Dont fight lol, ive been to two different places and one said Ł2000 for a pucker job and the other said Ł3500... I would like to sand it all back and maybe let them primer it, i could primer it if i did it with a tinnie i guess.

So am i just "keying" my paint as it is then priming over that so building a new layer kinda.

Any links to primer please?
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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to be honest any reputable bodyshop would end up going over the whole car again as the end finish would be the reputation, so they would not trust your work nor know of any chance of reaction from the products you may use
i also know what i'm talking about
my advise is to get the bodyshop you want to do the respray to visit you for a quote, as he's there ask him what you can do to keep the price down and he'll also tell you want products to use, this way he knows what you've done
don't worry mate, he wont bite lol

as said before roller primer is for interior decor not cars mate
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 10:32 PM
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rolling primer on? fuck off there isnt a bodyshop in the world that would do that i dont give a fuck what you say the cost in labour to flat that back down would outweigh the cost of decent primer
do yourself a favour let the bodyshop do it all, if you brought a car to my bodyshop that you had prepped yourself i would probably charge you more as i would have to pretty much re do all your work
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 01:42 AM
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Thought this was a forum where folk knew about cars.

BMW use roll on primer save using booth space and time, you guys think you know
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