ABS Brake Change over - whats needed?
07-08-2012, 01:11 PM
#1
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
ABS Brake Change over - whats needed?
Hi all. I'm running a standard 2.0 liter engine in my 1.8 sapp with standard convectional braking system using brake servo vacuum, master cylinder & deceleration sensitive valve.
It has 3 connections and lines to the master cylinder 1 for front right wheel, 1 for front left and 1 line running the to the deceleration sensitive valve for line running to the rear.
Front have standard ventilated disks wth Teves caliper and non sensored pads.
Rear have standard drum brakes.
I'd like a more responsive breaking system. Can the ABS conversion be done?
Whats needed, in detail?
Cheers
Jack
It has 3 connections and lines to the master cylinder 1 for front right wheel, 1 for front left and 1 line running the to the deceleration sensitive valve for line running to the rear.
Front have standard ventilated disks wth Teves caliper and non sensored pads.
Rear have standard drum brakes.
I'd like a more responsive breaking system. Can the ABS conversion be done?
Whats needed, in detail?
Cheers
Jack
07-08-2012, 02:06 PM
#2
you can install the complete abs system from a cosworth a equivalent XR model.
imy saph was originally a 2.0 ghia so had disc brakes all round and no abs - i have uprated the front brakes but not changed anything else.
If you want to do the above you will need to change the master cylinder for something like mine as it had discs all round.
Ive got Focus RS brakes on the front and they are great
imy saph was originally a 2.0 ghia so had disc brakes all round and no abs - i have uprated the front brakes but not changed anything else.
If you want to do the above you will need to change the master cylinder for something like mine as it had discs all round.
Ive got Focus RS brakes on the front and they are great
07-08-2012, 07:06 PM
#3
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
you can install the complete abs system from a cosworth a equivalent XR model.
imy saph was originally a 2.0 ghia so had disc brakes all round and no abs - i have uprated the front brakes but not changed anything else.
If you want to do the above you will need to change the master cylinder for something like mine as it had discs all round.
Ive got Focus RS brakes on the front and they are great
imy saph was originally a 2.0 ghia so had disc brakes all round and no abs - i have uprated the front brakes but not changed anything else.
If you want to do the above you will need to change the master cylinder for something like mine as it had discs all round.
Ive got Focus RS brakes on the front and they are great
Okay thanks for the info. What parts do I need to install ABS?
how many brake lines should there be?
What ABS parts are required so that the sytem can funtion.
What Size Discs front?
What Size Discs back?
Cheers,
07-08-2012, 08:39 PM
#4
PassionFord Post Whore!!
I put the ABS from my 1991 XR4x4 donor into a Mk1 XR4i.
The bulkhead needed a "keyhole slot" cut, then the Pump and pedals bolted straight in.
The bits you need will include:
The ABS loom and ECU (both separate from the main loom)
The two relays in the passenger footwell (part of the ABS loom)
The pump assembly
The distribution block (I never fitted the heatshield and it seems OK but my car doesn't get caned much)
The pipes across bulkhead from pump to dist block and to front drivers side wheel (3 or 4)
The light in the instrument panel
Think there is a fuse in the main fusebox
The four hub carriers with the ABS sensors and the grommets for where they pass into the car.
Clips on the front struts for the ABS cables
2 clips for the ABS plugs under the rear seat
Not sure if non-ABS driveshafts/front stubs have the toothed rings or not?
The deceleration valve isn't used with ABS but you still have a single pipe to the rear and one each to the front wheels.
Why do you think the ABS will make the brakes more responsive? In my experience they feel much the same in normal use, I just have the comfort of having ABS. Also, look at what implications, if any, that there might be with these new MOT rules.
The bulkhead needed a "keyhole slot" cut, then the Pump and pedals bolted straight in.
The bits you need will include:
The ABS loom and ECU (both separate from the main loom)
The two relays in the passenger footwell (part of the ABS loom)
The pump assembly
The distribution block (I never fitted the heatshield and it seems OK but my car doesn't get caned much)
The pipes across bulkhead from pump to dist block and to front drivers side wheel (3 or 4)
The light in the instrument panel
Think there is a fuse in the main fusebox
The four hub carriers with the ABS sensors and the grommets for where they pass into the car.
Clips on the front struts for the ABS cables
2 clips for the ABS plugs under the rear seat
Not sure if non-ABS driveshafts/front stubs have the toothed rings or not?
The deceleration valve isn't used with ABS but you still have a single pipe to the rear and one each to the front wheels.
Why do you think the ABS will make the brakes more responsive? In my experience they feel much the same in normal use, I just have the comfort of having ABS. Also, look at what implications, if any, that there might be with these new MOT rules.
Last edited by Iain Mac; 07-08-2012 at 08:43 PM.
08-08-2012, 07:47 AM
#5
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
I put the ABS from my 1991 XR4x4 donor into a Mk1 XR4i.
The bulkhead needed a "keyhole slot" cut, then the Pump and pedals bolted straight in.
The bits you need will include:
The ABS loom and ECU (both separate from the main loom)
The two relays in the passenger footwell (part of the ABS loom)
The pump assembly
The distribution block (I never fitted the heatshield and it seems OK but my car doesn't get caned much)
The pipes across bulkhead from pump to dist block and to front drivers side wheel (3 or 4)
The light in the instrument panel
Think there is a fuse in the main fusebox
The four hub carriers with the ABS sensors and the grommets for where they pass into the car.
Clips on the front struts for the ABS cables
2 clips for the ABS plugs under the rear seat
Not sure if non-ABS driveshafts/front stubs have the toothed rings or not?
The deceleration valve isn't used with ABS but you still have a single pipe to the rear and one each to the front wheels.
Why do you think the ABS will make the brakes more responsive? In my experience they feel much the same in normal use, I just have the comfort of having ABS. Also, look at what implications, if any, that there might be with these new MOT rules.
The bulkhead needed a "keyhole slot" cut, then the Pump and pedals bolted straight in.
The bits you need will include:
The ABS loom and ECU (both separate from the main loom)
The two relays in the passenger footwell (part of the ABS loom)
The pump assembly
The distribution block (I never fitted the heatshield and it seems OK but my car doesn't get caned much)
The pipes across bulkhead from pump to dist block and to front drivers side wheel (3 or 4)
The light in the instrument panel
Think there is a fuse in the main fusebox
The four hub carriers with the ABS sensors and the grommets for where they pass into the car.
Clips on the front struts for the ABS cables
2 clips for the ABS plugs under the rear seat
Not sure if non-ABS driveshafts/front stubs have the toothed rings or not?
The deceleration valve isn't used with ABS but you still have a single pipe to the rear and one each to the front wheels.
Why do you think the ABS will make the brakes more responsive? In my experience they feel much the same in normal use, I just have the comfort of having ABS. Also, look at what implications, if any, that there might be with these new MOT rules.
For the distribution block any particular size or model?
Recommendtion on disc sizes for the front?
Recommendation for disc sizes for the back?
ABS is better for me as ABS offers the ability to not lock the wheels up on emergency braking hence saving tires. The other day I had to throw away a pair of almost brand new tires because of the flat tire wear I created on an emergency stop. So for me ABS is a better safety feature than a standard convectional braking system.
We in SA don't have MOT but have an equivalnt of COR. I will check with the department legislation, but I dont't recall it being a problem.
Thanks a huge lot for the info provided, I can now start price sourcing parts.
Cheers,
08-08-2012, 08:24 AM
#6
On the fronts though you will need full abs equipment hubs assemblies
as the abs rings are part of the bearing assemblies
08-08-2012, 09:01 AM
#7
PassionFord Post Whore!!
I can't help with the technical stuff (I'm more of a fitter than a mechanic).
In my case I used all the parts from a 1991 XR4x4, then added the bigger brake discs and calipers with their hub carriers from a Cosworth 4x4.
The system control box says "For four wheel drive only", and the sensors are (apparently) different, so I don't think you can mix and match components. you would probably be best to try and get everything you need from a single car - probably cheaper that way, too.
In my case I used all the parts from a 1991 XR4x4, then added the bigger brake discs and calipers with their hub carriers from a Cosworth 4x4.
The system control box says "For four wheel drive only", and the sensors are (apparently) different, so I don't think you can mix and match components. you would probably be best to try and get everything you need from a single car - probably cheaper that way, too.
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08-08-2012, 10:11 AM
#8
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
Thanks guys appreciate your help
Good to know the technical info for when I do the change over.
I'm putting a part requirement list together so I know what to purchase for the change over, so I'm trying to get all bases covered.
Dojj
For the rear, is it better to change the stub shaft that have toothed rings fitted?
Please may you eleborate on full abs equipment hubs assemblies for the front?
Iain
Should I get all parts used for 2wd including the system controll box and sensors?
I would assume there are sensors on the rear brakes for ABS?
There's a provision for a light on the back of the Instrument panel but no bulb or holder and there is an ABS light up diagram on the instument panel but the circuit board is not intergrated with this hole. Is the connection for this, part of the ABS loom?
Can the ABS loom run independently from the fuse box or do I have to intergrate it into the Fuse box?
Cheers,
Good to know the technical info for when I do the change over.
I'm putting a part requirement list together so I know what to purchase for the change over, so I'm trying to get all bases covered.
Dojj
For the rear, is it better to change the stub shaft that have toothed rings fitted?
Please may you eleborate on full abs equipment hubs assemblies for the front?
Iain
Should I get all parts used for 2wd including the system controll box and sensors?
I would assume there are sensors on the rear brakes for ABS?
There's a provision for a light on the back of the Instrument panel but no bulb or holder and there is an ABS light up diagram on the instument panel but the circuit board is not intergrated with this hole. Is the connection for this, part of the ABS loom?
Can the ABS loom run independently from the fuse box or do I have to intergrate it into the Fuse box?
Cheers,
08-08-2012, 10:37 AM
#9
on the rear you will be better off fitting the whole rear beam as the holes in some of the drum beams aren't big enough for the disc stubs to go through
if you are going to do whole abs change though make sure you get all the correct bits from the same car as there were 4 different sorts that spring to mind
the early set up had integral valve blocks while the later ones had seperate ones on the other side of the engine bay
then there are the versions with the resivours on opposite sides due to the exhausts being on the same side as the master cylinders
what would probably be best is to get the bis first and then find the larger dohc uk spec master cylinder and servo set up which will run the bigger discs at the front and the discs on the rear before you start wiring things up
as said before, the 4wd ecu and wiring is different to the 2wd version, the 2wd version is much better
abs front discs are 260mm and rear discs are 253mm
if you want to go to 2wd cosworth discs you will need specific cosworth 2wd hubs in order to bolt the calipers on the front and the discs on the rear as they run 283mm front discs with fixed 4 pot calipers and 273mm rear discs with a taller hub carrier
you acn also fit the 4wd vented rear discs to the same carrier but you will need the calipers to match the vented discs, along with the caliper carriers as the 2wd discs are 10mm thick and the 4wd discs are 20mm thick
if you are going to do whole abs change though make sure you get all the correct bits from the same car as there were 4 different sorts that spring to mind
the early set up had integral valve blocks while the later ones had seperate ones on the other side of the engine bay
then there are the versions with the resivours on opposite sides due to the exhausts being on the same side as the master cylinders
what would probably be best is to get the bis first and then find the larger dohc uk spec master cylinder and servo set up which will run the bigger discs at the front and the discs on the rear before you start wiring things up
as said before, the 4wd ecu and wiring is different to the 2wd version, the 2wd version is much better
abs front discs are 260mm and rear discs are 253mm
if you want to go to 2wd cosworth discs you will need specific cosworth 2wd hubs in order to bolt the calipers on the front and the discs on the rear as they run 283mm front discs with fixed 4 pot calipers and 273mm rear discs with a taller hub carrier
you acn also fit the 4wd vented rear discs to the same carrier but you will need the calipers to match the vented discs, along with the caliper carriers as the 2wd discs are 10mm thick and the 4wd discs are 20mm thick
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