Proper Motorsport Wiring Porn
#1
Proper Motorsport Wiring Porn
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=414457
Is it just me that finds this stuff oddly fascinating?
Is it just me that finds this stuff oddly fascinating?
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#10
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Those military round conectors are a load of shite.
Only good for passing harness from a wet case to a dry environment.
Then when you leave them for long enough the ally oxidises and the connector won't loosen. You end up cracking the knurled collar.
The convolution is real nice though. Pretty cheap for the true click T's and connectors.
Only good for passing harness from a wet case to a dry environment.
Then when you leave them for long enough the ally oxidises and the connector won't loosen. You end up cracking the knurled collar.
The convolution is real nice though. Pretty cheap for the true click T's and connectors.
Last edited by .Ross.; 08-05-2012 at 11:20 PM.
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Real rally cars chance to have the harness stripped and tested every event?
#14
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I even bought the proper blue point removal tool that's a load of shite as well.
#15
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Thats assuming they are the same design. The ones ive seen have been heavily coated so i doubt any bare alloy to corrode as such. The only time ive seen corrosion was on the collars where theyve clearly been bodged and gouged with pliers or stilsons during fitting and even then it didnt stop them opening.
#17
Happily retired
If its Ministry Spec stuff being used that loom will cost a bomb.
Love the guy that says that Ministry Spec connectors are shite can i suggest you have never used them they will last for many years with no corrosion thats why they are Ministry Spec.
Before you ask spent 40 years on these things in Aircraft/Tanks so not in awe of what im seeing good effort for a car though.
Love the guy that says that Ministry Spec connectors are shite can i suggest you have never used them they will last for many years with no corrosion thats why they are Ministry Spec.
Before you ask spent 40 years on these things in Aircraft/Tanks so not in awe of what im seeing good effort for a car though.
#18
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After 13 years making this stuff and even repairing on site for the mod,they do corrode.They also break when trying to undo them if water has penetrated them and with them being aluminium alot would snap in the tool or the jig for undoing them.More so caused by the braid on the cable oxidizing,everything turns white and its stuck. All the aerospace stuff was good so so the cabinets for the subs/ships.The army stuff was always coming back for repairs.Maybe down to them being to heavy handed.Inside good,outside crap.Just like anything else really.
On a car though looks neat and easy to change.
On a car though looks neat and easy to change.
#19
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May I sugest Rax that you have never worked on military connector's
Depends on the location I suppose. All the ones I deal with are all out in the open. Susceptible to environmental influences.
After 13 years making this stuff and even repairing on site for the mod,they do corrode.They also break when trying to undo them if water has penetrated them and with them being aluminium alot would snap in the tool or the jig for undoing them.More so caused by the braid on the cable oxidizing,everything turns white and its stuck. All the aerospace stuff was good so so the cabinets for the subs/ships.The army stuff was always coming back for repairs.Maybe down to them being to heavy handed.Inside good,outside crap.Just like anything else really.
On a car though looks neat and easy to change.
On a car though looks neat and easy to change.
#21
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May I sugest Rax that you have never worked on military connector's
lol,no never and I also never had any of the designs on jobs slightly changed to try and combat the problem
Depends on the location I suppose. All the ones I deal with are all out in the open. Susceptible to environmental influences.
lol,no never and I also never had any of the designs on jobs slightly changed to try and combat the problem
Depends on the location I suppose. All the ones I deal with are all out in the open. Susceptible to environmental influences.
#22
Regular Contributor
Ok then, so what would you guys suggest that will look as good as that but for use on a car that will be driven in all weather, left sitting out side the house for a week or so or used as a daily driver?
#24
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They look,in fact I'd say for certain are,the same plugs and sockets used in high end industrial machinery encoders which are used for positional feedback/speeds etc in industry.
I've soldered up many of those plugs over the years and tbh the pins are quite close but their not too bad to do and are near enough standard in the automotive industry.
He's done a lovely job of it all though.
I think the worst one I ever did was about 34-48 pins and all were used,it did work first time though on a large univerter lathe that basically made your brake discs if you owned a ford transit fwd between 200-2006.
I've soldered up many of those plugs over the years and tbh the pins are quite close but their not too bad to do and are near enough standard in the automotive industry.
He's done a lovely job of it all though.
I think the worst one I ever did was about 34-48 pins and all were used,it did work first time though on a large univerter lathe that basically made your brake discs if you owned a ford transit fwd between 200-2006.
#25
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As said above had one or two fail but usually due to cack- handedness really,most have a little location lug on them and only really need to be hand tightened up to the end and maybe a 1/4 of a turn with a suitable device.
A lot are spring loaded and align with two lugs with cut back grooves so tighten fully in 1/2 a turn then lock in place.
We used them where they ran continuously in machine coolant and moving around through tracks etc and never had any major issues.
The problems on the brake disc lines were due to fine metallic dust getting attracted to the grease in the plugs and forming a paste on the threads therefore causing them to be really stiff to take on and off.
Again human error over design defect.
A lot are spring loaded and align with two lugs with cut back grooves so tighten fully in 1/2 a turn then lock in place.
We used them where they ran continuously in machine coolant and moving around through tracks etc and never had any major issues.
The problems on the brake disc lines were due to fine metallic dust getting attracted to the grease in the plugs and forming a paste on the threads therefore causing them to be really stiff to take on and off.
Again human error over design defect.
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