Rs200 kit car
18-01-2012, 11:24 PM
#1
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Rs200 kit car
Bit of a problem with deciding what to do ! I have a mercury Motorsport rs200 kit and is near finished . All done except painting . The problem is that the car is 4" bigger in lenght than a real rs200 and I was seriously thinking about shortening the space frame to original ford rs200 dimensions . I'll know that I will have to get a
genuine bonnet /bumper to fit.
I like the look of the genuine
rs200 ! Will it handle better if I shorten it ?? Or shall I leave it as it is ??
It's going to be used as a track day car most of the time !
Thanks
Karlrs200
genuine bonnet /bumper to fit.
I like the look of the genuine
rs200 ! Will it handle better if I shorten it ?? Or shall I leave it as it is ??
It's going to be used as a track day car most of the time !
Thanks
Karlrs200
18-01-2012, 11:29 PM
#2
st170 breaking
does it show?
they usually look odd but if it doesnt let it go
will it cut down nicely?, cant just cut and butt weld of course
the replacement panels will be mega mega money
they usually look odd but if it doesnt let it go
will it cut down nicely?, cant just cut and butt weld of course
the replacement panels will be mega mega money
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19-01-2012, 09:08 AM
#9
youl end up custom moulding a bonnet and bumper as the evo200 kitcar is a little wider too so it wont line up. You'll need a custom moulded sills as well.
If you read the reviews when the kara430 came out, compared to the original rs200 its extra length made it more stable on the road at high speed.
If you read the reviews when the kara430 came out, compared to the original rs200 its extra length made it more stable on the road at high speed.
19-01-2012, 02:04 PM
#11
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
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Hi Karl
I would leave alone as the work involved would require a lot of skill to get it right. The extra length in the wheelbase does make them less twitchy than the real ones.
Is that Gary's last chassis, it looks very familiar?
Which Quaife box have you fitted? I gave up on my 25G, as it kept breaking
I see you've copied my 200 plenum to YB inlet, I've also given up on that inlet at the moment as I've blown two of them to bits due to backfires, possibly caused by my wasted spark ignition, although I do have another 200 plenum & inlet to make another.
I would leave alone as the work involved would require a lot of skill to get it right. The extra length in the wheelbase does make them less twitchy than the real ones.
Is that Gary's last chassis, it looks very familiar?
Which Quaife box have you fitted? I gave up on my 25G, as it kept breaking
I see you've copied my 200 plenum to YB inlet, I've also given up on that inlet at the moment as I've blown two of them to bits due to backfires, possibly caused by my wasted spark ignition, although I do have another 200 plenum & inlet to make another.
Last edited by Jim S; 19-01-2012 at 02:10 PM.
19-01-2012, 04:45 PM
#13
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That's just say that it's cost me and the previous owner a arm and a leg !!!!! I was just in the right place at the right time! Everything on the car
is new or reconditioned ,
It's in the paint shop at mo waiting for my decision to either shorten it or leave as is ?looking forward to having some fun this year !!!!
Karl
is new or reconditioned ,
It's in the paint shop at mo waiting for my decision to either shorten it or leave as is ?looking forward to having some fun this year !!!!
Karl
19-01-2012, 09:59 PM
#20
leave it alone is the only financially sensible option.
You can see a lot of the extra length between the a pillar and front wheel. That area is much slimmer on the real car.
If the body differences really bother you that much then finish it, sell it and buy the SPD200 from cradeley motor works. Its dimensionally identical to the original and they even offer a mid engined 4wd set up if you can afford it.
You can see a lot of the extra length between the a pillar and front wheel. That area is much slimmer on the real car.
If the body differences really bother you that much then finish it, sell it and buy the SPD200 from cradeley motor works. Its dimensionally identical to the original and they even offer a mid engined 4wd set up if you can afford it.
19-01-2012, 10:06 PM
#21
Blag Master
Looks great as is..... leave it alone... hell, most numpty's would never know the difference and if they do.... Who fucking cares.. You have a brilliant car
19-01-2012, 11:22 PM
#22
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Leave it the hell alone!!
Replica or not it's cooler than a red dress, Purist's will always find fault but your average joe public will wet their pants over it me included
Replica or not it's cooler than a red dress, Purist's will always find fault but your average joe public will wet their pants over it me included
20-01-2012, 12:43 AM
#23
Advanced PassionFord User
it looks amazing as it is! dont change a thing, like others have said if they notice 4" theyll notice other things first to show its a replica.
either way who gives a fuck if its a replica or not as long as it does what it says on the tin who cares!
it looks lovely leave it as it is and get it painted.. besides would you loose 4" if some one offerd you the opperation? haahaha
either way who gives a fuck if its a replica or not as long as it does what it says on the tin who cares!
it looks lovely leave it as it is and get it painted.. besides would you loose 4" if some one offerd you the opperation? haahaha
20-01-2012, 01:03 AM
#25
I think it looks amazing mate. Keep it the way it is. You rarely see these out anyway so unless someone happens to have one when yours is finished then maybe you might notice the difference but as posted above why create more work for yourself when its already looks like the real thing!!
22-01-2012, 09:08 PM
#31
PassionFord Regular
It looks great, mate. Leave well alone, especially now you've got this far.
In the absence of a pukka 4wd system, you'll probably need all of that wheel base to keep it on the twisty bits!
Don't forget to post some pics up in the re-build section as well!
Cheers
Iain
In the absence of a pukka 4wd system, you'll probably need all of that wheel base to keep it on the twisty bits!
Don't forget to post some pics up in the re-build section as well!
Cheers
Iain
22-01-2012, 10:03 PM
#32
Advanced PassionFord User
i want one so so much 
as others have said it makes no sense to try to shorten it and would be very difficult to get it right, the car looks great as it is and 99% of people would never notice or even know
as others have said it makes no sense to try to shorten it and would be very difficult to get it right, the car looks great as it is and 99% of people would never notice or even know
23-01-2012, 01:08 PM
#35
Karl,
PM me a price on genuine bonnet and bumper, I would be interested in those pannels if you do not use them.
Thanks
Steve
PS the kit car versions usually drive better than the original car, so I would leave the extra length.
PM me a price on genuine bonnet and bumper, I would be interested in those pannels if you do not use them.
Thanks
Steve
PS the kit car versions usually drive better than the original car, so I would leave the extra length.
Last edited by steveboyslim; 25-01-2012 at 06:54 AM.
17-03-2012, 09:48 PM
#39
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
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Bit of a problem with deciding what to do ! I have a mercury Motorsport rs200 kit and is near finished . All done except painting . The problem is that the car is 4" bigger in lenght than a real rs200 and I was seriously thinking about shortening the space frame to original ford rs200 dimensions . I'll know that I will have to get a
genuine bonnet /bumper to fit.
I like the look of the genuine
rs200 ! Will it handle better if I shorten it ?? Or shall I leave it as it is ??
It's going to be used as a track day car most of the time !
Thanks
Karlrs200
genuine bonnet /bumper to fit.
I like the look of the genuine
rs200 ! Will it handle better if I shorten it ?? Or shall I leave it as it is ??
It's going to be used as a track day car most of the time !
Thanks
Karlrs200
Have a look at the chassis and the distance from the bulkhead to the wheel, the extra length is only in the fibreglass sill section forward of the bulkead and not the chassis, meaning the front suspension pickup points are just further forward. The bulkhead is in the right place by the looks of it.
I reckon you would only have to get some sills and bonnet the correct length and move the front pickup points back in the chassis to get the right wheelbase. However......
Our chassis' are deeper than the originals so it'd make for one stumpy looking car, so the floor would have to be raised at least to the level of the bottom suspension pickup points.....BIG JOB!!!
cheers PeteW
Last edited by evo200; 17-03-2012 at 09:52 PM.
