Paint Spraying Question
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From: Northants
Paint Spraying Question
Id just like to point out the car isnt nothing spectacular and im just doing little visual modifications to add my own taste to it.
Currently painting the boot trim strip and the door strips.
I flatted them back with 800 grit wet and dry, primered them, then flatted the primer so it was smooth using 1200 grit wet and dry, and then dried them with a heatgun, done all this over a few days, panel wiped them and then applied the basecoat black, which is Ford Panther Metallic Black, which for those who dont know, it has a lacquer clear coat over the top.
The black has gone on ok, i sprayed at a set distance and using only a side to side motion, i didnt go up down and all over the place, but now its dried, there tends to be patches that are duller than other parts? Hard to explain, but what i want to know is do i flat the colour coat back before applying the clear coat/lacquer? and with what grade wet and dry?
Ive done it with spray cans you see, everythings gone well so far, finish looks ok basecoat wise, i just wanted to know whether i need to flat the colour coat before lacquering it? I was guessing yes as otherwise you will see the dull and brighter patches of the basecoat through the clear coat, but googling this question told me not to wet flat the basecoat as it will mess up the metallic in the Panther black?
Any ideas?
Thanks
Currently painting the boot trim strip and the door strips.
I flatted them back with 800 grit wet and dry, primered them, then flatted the primer so it was smooth using 1200 grit wet and dry, and then dried them with a heatgun, done all this over a few days, panel wiped them and then applied the basecoat black, which is Ford Panther Metallic Black, which for those who dont know, it has a lacquer clear coat over the top.
The black has gone on ok, i sprayed at a set distance and using only a side to side motion, i didnt go up down and all over the place, but now its dried, there tends to be patches that are duller than other parts? Hard to explain, but what i want to know is do i flat the colour coat back before applying the clear coat/lacquer? and with what grade wet and dry?
Ive done it with spray cans you see, everythings gone well so far, finish looks ok basecoat wise, i just wanted to know whether i need to flat the colour coat before lacquering it? I was guessing yes as otherwise you will see the dull and brighter patches of the basecoat through the clear coat, but googling this question told me not to wet flat the basecoat as it will mess up the metallic in the Panther black?
Any ideas?
Thanks
Last edited by 12340987; Oct 13, 2011 at 12:12 AM.
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From: Northants
I wouldnt say they were dull and bright patches, it looks more of an un even finish, despite me just going from left to right in one direction and at a set distance, so the finish is even, its just now its dried, the basecoat feels rough and textured and seems to look patchy?
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I wouldnt flat it, do another coat of black and get a decent finish. Sounds to me like you might be too far away and the paint is drying before it hits the car giving you a dull overspray effect in places. With base coats i find its best to do a couple of light coats then one heavy one as much as you can get away with without running.
Im no expert but have done a couple of full resprays and learned the hard way.
Also dont expect your basecoat to look like the rest of your car, it will look completely different when the lacquer goes on, saying that you still dont want the bit you have sprayed to look patchy.
Im no expert but have done a couple of full resprays and learned the hard way.
Also dont expect your basecoat to look like the rest of your car, it will look completely different when the lacquer goes on, saying that you still dont want the bit you have sprayed to look patchy.
Last edited by cossie350; Oct 13, 2011 at 12:19 AM.
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From: Northants
Ive got the parts in question off the car and in the garage in a work bench, side mouldings, and rear boot strip.
Ive painted with a compressor before and that came up mint, so im guessing its just the cans thats causing the problem, i did that with the headlights, did a dust coat, let that dry then a complete covering so they were soaked and came out ok, i just dont want to go so far that i get runs and end up having to spend more time flatting the runs out and re doing it
Ive painted with a compressor before and that came up mint, so im guessing its just the cans thats causing the problem, i did that with the headlights, did a dust coat, let that dry then a complete covering so they were soaked and came out ok, i just dont want to go so far that i get runs and end up having to spend more time flatting the runs out and re doing it
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From: sunny stockton on tees
Flat it to give it a key then apply the base coat on you want even coverage when applying it, never flat metallic as it will effect the flakes, clear it after about 20-30 mins
Last edited by Patto; Oct 13, 2011 at 03:04 PM.
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From: Dundee, Scotland
When spraying metallics I generally spray 2 coats of base and once they're dry give it what's called a drop coat. Basically on the first 2 coats the flakes lie flat, so you turn down the pressure on the gun and allow a fine mist of metallic to come through. These stand on end and, once dried, can be lacquered to give you the desired finish.
Pretty impossible with rattle cans though mate. Post up some pics.
Pretty impossible with rattle cans though mate. Post up some pics.
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From: Northants
Well ill see how it pans out, its not like its a panel of the car, only a plastic piece of it, sold all my spraying equipment years ago, just couldn't remember whether you flat basecoats or not that was all at the minute its dried ok and evenly, needs another coat and then lacquering, so you recommend lacquering straight after the final coat and getting as much lacquer on as possible without it running? Also can i flat the clear coat back and machine it up to a better shine or is that not wise after using cans?
Thanks
Thanks
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