2jz stroker cam timing
#1
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well this is where shes at both show 4d retarded !
![](http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/scooobyslayer/IMG_0707.jpg)
![](http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/scooobyslayer/IMG_0705.jpg)
![](http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/scooobyslayer/IMG_0704.jpg)
its on a massive inlet and q45 throttle body but starts straight up so im assuming cam timing isnt a tooth out.
im seriously contemplating going to tdi and just putting the verniers to zero as it should help spool then do a run on there rototest, its just a case of being sure it wont get valve/piston contact ?
the car only revs to 7600 rpm anyways as per hks recomendation so id like to gain some quicker spool if possible
im hoping i can gain a 3 - 400 rpm in the spool area and get the power back at the top as the red/black run was with a t51r spl journal, blue is new tune hks t51r spl bb so should match old run with better spool aswell.
WHP
![](http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/scooobyslayer/IMG_0654.jpg)
cams are hks 272, what is likely to be the best timing to set them on 0 0 ?
![](http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/scooobyslayer/IMG_0707.jpg)
![](http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/scooobyslayer/IMG_0705.jpg)
![](http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/scooobyslayer/IMG_0704.jpg)
its on a massive inlet and q45 throttle body but starts straight up so im assuming cam timing isnt a tooth out.
im seriously contemplating going to tdi and just putting the verniers to zero as it should help spool then do a run on there rototest, its just a case of being sure it wont get valve/piston contact ?
the car only revs to 7600 rpm anyways as per hks recomendation so id like to gain some quicker spool if possible
im hoping i can gain a 3 - 400 rpm in the spool area and get the power back at the top as the red/black run was with a t51r spl journal, blue is new tune hks t51r spl bb so should match old run with better spool aswell.
WHP
![](http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/scooobyslayer/IMG_0654.jpg)
cams are hks 272, what is likely to be the best timing to set them on 0 0 ?
#3
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thats what im planning on doing but they could spend all day altering it to find the best timing and at over £100 an hour i dont want to be there all day, i can afford it but its not worth spending £500 plus, i just want to take it and run a set timing check fuelling and done.
#4
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someone has just said to me if the head or block have been skimmed alot the equal altered timing might actually be 0 if there making up for skimmed block/head face material.
#5
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you need to clock the cam timing to establish what the cam timing actually is .The biggest error most people make is they assume zero on the cam wheel protractor is std or the correct setting for the modified cam and it never is
You must also note that your inlet cam is 4 degrees advanced from the zero position but your exhaust cam is 4 degrees retarded from zero
why some one doesn't manufacture cam pulleys correctly identifying the advance and retard orientation is quite a mystery
e.g. verniers commonly used on the yb cosworth show the advance and retard orientation for the inlet cam only yet supply them as a pair for inlet and exhaust
You must also note that your inlet cam is 4 degrees advanced from the zero position but your exhaust cam is 4 degrees retarded from zero
why some one doesn't manufacture cam pulleys correctly identifying the advance and retard orientation is quite a mystery
e.g. verniers commonly used on the yb cosworth show the advance and retard orientation for the inlet cam only yet supply them as a pair for inlet and exhaust
#6
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![Default](https://passionford.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you need to clock the cam timing to establish what the cam timing actually is .The biggest error most people make is they assume zero on the cam wheel protractor is std or the correct setting for the modified cam and it never is
You must also note that your inlet cam is 4 degrees advanced from the zero position but your exhaust cam is 4 degrees retarded from zero
why some one doesn't manufacture cam pulleys correctly identifying the advance and retard orientation is quite a mystery
e.g. verniers commonly used on the yb cosworth show the advance and retard orientation for the inlet cam only yet supply them as a pair for inlet and exhaust
You must also note that your inlet cam is 4 degrees advanced from the zero position but your exhaust cam is 4 degrees retarded from zero
why some one doesn't manufacture cam pulleys correctly identifying the advance and retard orientation is quite a mystery
e.g. verniers commonly used on the yb cosworth show the advance and retard orientation for the inlet cam only yet supply them as a pair for inlet and exhaust
![](http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/scooobyslayer/supragt42rs.jpg)
looks like im asking to much as my boost is in way earlier than this run was.
i cant get my head around why the pulleys are wrong tony ? is it because as one valve is off the other one comes on so advance/retard is opposite ? its not something ive ever messed with the old cats are just all old single cam ohv engines
![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
#7
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I wouldnt bother as you could lose alot of power top end.
On my forged build on a 3sgte with a GT3076 and HKS 264 cams. The builder set the cams to 0 as they were stock. Went on the dyno and from 5500 rpm the power dropped. Set the cams up +2 inlet & -6 exhaust and the power increased to red line.
Might be worth speaking to Garage whifbitz for their say?
On my forged build on a 3sgte with a GT3076 and HKS 264 cams. The builder set the cams to 0 as they were stock. Went on the dyno and from 5500 rpm the power dropped. Set the cams up +2 inlet & -6 exhaust and the power increased to red line.
Might be worth speaking to Garage whifbitz for their say?
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