OT : couple of pics of my mini engine WIP
30-01-2005, 10:34 AM
#1
OT : couple of pics of my mini engine WIP
May interest some of you if you are really bored, but probably not, lol
This is the engine im planning on using to get 500bhp into my mini.
Close up of a couple of bits of prep ive been doing so far:
Nasty bit of casting in the block under the bearing tunnel which has got "stress raiser" written all over it
You can also just about make out in the above picture where ive "broken th edges" on the block around all the machined edges, every edge has been radiused sligthly in order to better distribute stress away from it.
Casting lines also taking out the main block walls
Block has been line bored, as the bearing tunnels when i measured them had stretched out of shape, they were 1 thou over size in the vertical plain and a quarter thou under size in the horizontal plane.
Next job is to get the sump cut flat using the bearing tunnel as a reference to make sure there is no run out on the bottom of the block, then the top face of the block will be cut level, so that its perfectly parellel with the bearing tunnel, then just a case of boring it out and i will know that the bores are exactly perpendicular to the bearing tunnel so the pistons will actually be coming up and down nice and straight.
Then ive got to dry build it, measure what the CR is and then adjust it to make sure its its the 8:1 im aiming for.
Im only getting to spend an hour or two a week on it at the moment, so going to be bloody ages before its finished, but just thoght id post up anyway as its sunday morning and the boards a bit slow, lol
Chip
This is the engine im planning on using to get 500bhp into my mini.
Close up of a couple of bits of prep ive been doing so far:
Nasty bit of casting in the block under the bearing tunnel which has got "stress raiser" written all over it
You can also just about make out in the above picture where ive "broken th edges" on the block around all the machined edges, every edge has been radiused sligthly in order to better distribute stress away from it.
Casting lines also taking out the main block walls
Block has been line bored, as the bearing tunnels when i measured them had stretched out of shape, they were 1 thou over size in the vertical plain and a quarter thou under size in the horizontal plane.
Next job is to get the sump cut flat using the bearing tunnel as a reference to make sure there is no run out on the bottom of the block, then the top face of the block will be cut level, so that its perfectly parellel with the bearing tunnel, then just a case of boring it out and i will know that the bores are exactly perpendicular to the bearing tunnel so the pistons will actually be coming up and down nice and straight.
Then ive got to dry build it, measure what the CR is and then adjust it to make sure its its the 8:1 im aiming for.
Im only getting to spend an hour or two a week on it at the moment, so going to be bloody ages before its finished, but just thoght id post up anyway as its sunday morning and the boards a bit slow, lol
Chip
30-01-2005, 11:00 AM
#3
In this case because the ovality was only a thousandth of an inch we just took a couple of thou off the bearing caps and then bored it back to standard size, if its really badly out of shape you would normally just bin it rather than start going oversize and needed to source weird and wonderful bearings the correct new size but then thicker so as to match the crank still.
You have to be careful not to go too far doing that though as potentially you could weaken the caps by taking too much material off them and also could knock the crank out of alignment with the gearbox.
The other reason for line boring though, is to ensure the bearings are perfectly straight, once its line bored you remeasure all of the bearings and if any of them arent the same size then it means that the block has shifted out of line.
You have to be careful not to go too far doing that though as potentially you could weaken the caps by taking too much material off them and also could knock the crank out of alignment with the gearbox.
The other reason for line boring though, is to ensure the bearings are perfectly straight, once its line bored you remeasure all of the bearings and if any of them arent the same size then it means that the block has shifted out of line.
30-01-2005, 11:06 AM
#5
The bore of the bearing tunnel or the bore of the bores?
Dial guage in both cases.
Havent measured the bores yet on this block though, as it hasnt been bored yet, once it has been bored and honed i will measure it, ill try and remember to get a picture of that.
Heres a quick pic, you cant see very well though to be perfectly honest, but you get the idea:
Dial guage in both cases.
Havent measured the bores yet on this block though, as it hasnt been bored yet, once it has been bored and honed i will measure it, ill try and remember to get a picture of that.
Heres a quick pic, you cant see very well though to be perfectly honest, but you get the idea:
30-01-2005, 11:08 AM
#7
Turbo charged, and with a sniff of gas for the top couple of gears once i have traction, pretty hard trying to put 800bhp per tonne down through the front wheels of a car i should imagine (i dont know as ive never tried before, lol)
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30-01-2005, 11:16 AM
#9
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
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Chip, how do you solve the age old turbo XE problem of no oil jets squirting on the undersides of the pistons/cylinders?
Do you fabricate crankcase plumbing of your own?
Do you fabricate crankcase plumbing of your own?
30-01-2005, 03:32 PM
#11
Becuase of the weight of the vehicle limiting how long the engine can possibly be working hard for im just going to make do with the standard LET way of doing it by holes in the rods to spray the little ends and bottom of the pistons, i was looking into proper squirters, but i dont think this engine in this car will ever generate enough heat to be a problem, if the sameengine was going in a 1200kg calibra though i would certainly use the jets.
31-01-2005, 10:14 AM
#15
Porkie, from looking at the rods, im pretty sure that they are "rebadged" arrow ones.
top quality bits of kit though, SBD arent the cheapest place to get bits from but the quality is always awesome.
top quality bits of kit though, SBD arent the cheapest place to get bits from but the quality is always awesome.
31-01-2005, 10:36 AM
#20
Do you not think the drums will be up to it then?
LMFAO
Those are now gone, although nothing to replace them yet, ill probably use KAD ones like i had on my track racing mini.
Few pics of the mods to the front coming along, the engine in place is a 1800 8v astra engine on twin 40s, this is just for development to get it up and running, as its the same basic layout as the turbo motor and marries up to the same box etc.
So this way i can be building the car up at the same time as the engine.
LMFAO
Those are now gone, although nothing to replace them yet, ill probably use KAD ones like i had on my track racing mini.
Few pics of the mods to the front coming along, the engine in place is a 1800 8v astra engine on twin 40s, this is just for development to get it up and running, as its the same basic layout as the turbo motor and marries up to the same box etc.
So this way i can be building the car up at the same time as the engine.
31-01-2005, 10:38 AM
#21
Those of you with better monitors might just about be able to make out that the top and bottom arms as well as the track control arms are all adjustable and every joint is a rose joint.
Have got some AVO coilovers for it as well, so hopefully should be able to get it to handle pretty well despite being "a touch nose heavy" LOL
Have got some AVO coilovers for it as well, so hopefully should be able to get it to handle pretty well despite being "a touch nose heavy" LOL
31-01-2005, 10:42 AM
#22
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
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one of my mate is mini mad he has a mini turbo with 150 bhp and 165 torque though a straight cut close ratio box. its on the new mini dvd and it is stupidly quick
31-01-2005, 10:44 AM
#23
Sounds good Sam.
Ive got a couple of them with tuned A series engines in, but the damn things just cannot be made reliable at big power levels, getting 200bhp out of one is possible, but you just cant make it last 5 minutes.
3 bearings on the crank is not a good idea!
Heres one of my other minis though, your friend might have seen it about at shows and stuff:
Ive got a couple of them with tuned A series engines in, but the damn things just cannot be made reliable at big power levels, getting 200bhp out of one is possible, but you just cant make it last 5 minutes.
3 bearings on the crank is not a good idea!
Heres one of my other minis though, your friend might have seen it about at shows and stuff:
31-01-2005, 10:47 AM
#24
just finding my feet
ive noticed that all minis when they have a engine swop they always chop the front of the car off then fit engine and rebild the car after, is the mini front end bolt on or is that the best was to fabricate a engine in a car, just asking as a guy near me who owns a garage built a mini with a peugeot 205 1.9 engine and he was doing the same thing 
looks a good project and very very very techy stuff going on, i would have just fitted the rod and wacked the boost up myself
looks a good project and very very very techy stuff going on, i would have just fitted the rod and wacked the boost up myself
31-01-2005, 11:05 AM
#25
No the front isnt bolt on, but its just a case if there is SO little room you have to remove it really to do any major work on it.
Then when it goes back on your make it removable on clips, and dont repalce the inner wings so that you have space.
Then when it goes back on your make it removable on clips, and dont repalce the inner wings so that you have space.
31-01-2005, 11:17 AM
#27
15K+ Super Poster!!
Front wings arent structual as such. It's not like on a ford where the engine botls to the inner wings etc. There is a subframe which the engine sits in, and the front end just wraps round this. U can get some nice carbon fibre clip on ones.
31-01-2005, 11:18 AM
#28
bloke in the saph was quite surprised when i was in front of him at 60ft i should think, but that was on the old engine and i only ran about a 16 or so, by the end of the strip he was just a blur in the distance, lol
31-01-2005, 11:19 AM
#29
Originally Posted by Rick
Front wings arent structual as such. It's not like on a ford where the engine botls to the inner wings etc. There is a subframe which the engine sits in, and the front end just wraps round this. U can get some nice carbon fibre clip on ones.
31-01-2005, 11:36 AM
#32
just finding my feet
well just incase, he was showing all the work he was doing and it looked sooooo wierd
seems a cool thing though,
has anyone seen that mini with the type R engine in is down basildon way, thats the pnly car ive seen that actually looks fooking fast when ya see it accelerate, with cossie ect they dont look as fast as there feel/are when seeing em from the outside, the typeR mini fooking flys, fook knows what that feels like
was sooo funny seeing it over take a scooby and evo7 racing each other down the "strip"
now thats a cool car
, too fooking small though 
but what a toy
seems a cool thing though,
has anyone seen that mini with the type R engine in is down basildon way, thats the pnly car ive seen that actually looks fooking fast when ya see it accelerate, with cossie ect they dont look as fast as there feel/are when seeing em from the outside, the typeR mini fooking flys, fook knows what that feels like
was sooo funny seeing it over take a scooby and evo7 racing each other down the "strip"
now thats a cool car
, too fooking small though but what a toy
31-01-2005, 12:37 PM
#33
Yeah there are quite a few honda engined minis knocking around, generally though the vuaxhall engined ones like mine are quicker.
Ive yet to see a turbo converted honda engine mini, that WOULD be cool.
Ive yet to see a turbo converted honda engine mini, that WOULD be cool.
31-01-2005, 01:06 PM
#35
Ive got an integra type r as well (you seen the pics yet phil? link here: https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=93612 ) and there is a girl on the integra forum i use with a turbo charged one and she seems to get fantastic results.
Just a case of getting a turbo that is specced correctly for 8-9K rpm
Just a case of getting a turbo that is specced correctly for 8-9K rpm
10-03-2005, 08:13 AM
#36
Just a quick update on this one for those who are interested.
Block had been machined now, I had the sump cut using the bearing tunnel as a reference, and then the top face cut relative to the bottom, so that it was all perfectly square (it was quite a few thou out of square to being with, about 4 degrees in fact, so it just goes to show how much these things settle with age and why you are better off using a secondhand block than a new one!)
The bores were then bored relative to the top face, so i now know that the bores are perfectly straight in the block, which should decrease the chance in a failure happening due to the rods not running up and down straight etc.
Ive dry built it and the compression ratio is 8.14 on a 1.9mm gasket which is ideal for what im after really, and gives me the chance to increase it slightly if im feeling adventurous by using a thinner gasket.
Last night we got the dial gauge out on the bores in the new block, they are the straightest set of bores ive ever seen, there isnt even a tenth of a thou of variation up and down any of the bores in the honing, they are utterly straight, they all all exactly the same size and there is no measurable (to nearest tenth) ovality.
So its a crying shame that they are 1.3 thousandths of an inch too small
Doh!
Going to have to send it back down to the machine shop again to be honed out again to get the piston to bore clearance correct.
At least its under not over i suppose!!
Still, all in all, its coming together nicely, shame i only get at most 2-3 hours a week to work on it!
Block had been machined now, I had the sump cut using the bearing tunnel as a reference, and then the top face cut relative to the bottom, so that it was all perfectly square (it was quite a few thou out of square to being with, about 4 degrees in fact, so it just goes to show how much these things settle with age and why you are better off using a secondhand block than a new one!)
The bores were then bored relative to the top face, so i now know that the bores are perfectly straight in the block, which should decrease the chance in a failure happening due to the rods not running up and down straight etc.
Ive dry built it and the compression ratio is 8.14 on a 1.9mm gasket which is ideal for what im after really, and gives me the chance to increase it slightly if im feeling adventurous by using a thinner gasket.
Last night we got the dial gauge out on the bores in the new block, they are the straightest set of bores ive ever seen, there isnt even a tenth of a thou of variation up and down any of the bores in the honing, they are utterly straight, they all all exactly the same size and there is no measurable (to nearest tenth) ovality.
So its a crying shame that they are 1.3 thousandths of an inch too small
Doh!
Going to have to send it back down to the machine shop again to be honed out again to get the piston to bore clearance correct.
At least its under not over i suppose!!
Still, all in all, its coming together nicely, shame i only get at most 2-3 hours a week to work on it!
10-03-2005, 09:43 AM
#40
Basically its (swept volume + unswept volume) / unswept volume.
As an example, on my engine im building:
Swept volume = 507cc (86.7mm bore)
Piston dish = 18.5cc
Deck height volume = -2.3cc (piston sticks out of bore at TDC by .385mm into the gasket which is good for squish)
Gasket volume = 11.4cc (my guestimate as i havent got the actual gasket yet to measure)
Head volume = 43.4cc
So unswept = 18.5 -2.3 + 11.4 + 43.4 = 71 cc
Swept + unswept = 578cc
Therefore CR = 578 / 71 = 8.14:1
Hope that helps.
As an example, on my engine im building:
Swept volume = 507cc (86.7mm bore)
Piston dish = 18.5cc
Deck height volume = -2.3cc (piston sticks out of bore at TDC by .385mm into the gasket which is good for squish)
Gasket volume = 11.4cc (my guestimate as i havent got the actual gasket yet to measure)
Head volume = 43.4cc
So unswept = 18.5 -2.3 + 11.4 + 43.4 = 71 cc
Swept + unswept = 578cc
Therefore CR = 578 / 71 = 8.14:1
Hope that helps.