Zetec_mk4_XR3i

I know its not a Ford, but just wondered if anyone could shed any light on this.

My wee Bro's 1998 306 has started to flatten its battery.....the battery light is on dim when he takes the key out and the blower works when ignition is off....suggests to me something wrong with blower circuit?

Any suggestions? Tried to check voltage over battery and alternator and seems to be ok.

Cheers

crumpet

be a dodgy earth or connection pal, heater blowers and matrix's in 306's are shit, my first dturbo had problems behind the clocks which used to stay on when key was out the ignition, a 12v wire shorted out behind the clocks causing a few of the dash lights to stay on

Dlatch!

check blower switch for short and check the relay for the blower that will be the problem

xr2john

Its French what do you expect

matts zetec s tdci

thought i may be able to help when i read the title as my old 306 had just about every electrical problem you could think of apart from this lol

crumpet

Door looms

central locking sensor due to ariel water leak

key batterys dying

Head light wiring

alternator wiring

rear light earths

rear electric window switches

clock wiring

Head gasket issues

kkk14 turbos are shit

radiators corode

ball joints

rear beam bearings

sunroof rust on early ones

drivers bolster wear

etc


Why do people Buy 306s lmao

Dlatch!

because despite all the faults they keep going

matts zetec s tdci

yep lol i had a leaky rear light 2 and my window fell out lol and my clocks used to go to 110 and full revs full tank of fuel ect when i put my wipers on but i still miss that car lol i also wrote off a vw transporter and an astra with it and it still kept going with just a dented wing lol

Strippedfez

Thanks for the reply folks, its my 306 in question.

Now, there is a burning smell from the engine bay and the battery light is only on when the car IS running and not as before when the the key was out the ignition. Plus the blower now doesn't come on when key is out.

Thinking the alternator is gone??
When i tested the voltage output when the car was running, at the alternator was just under 12v...is this correct?

Cheers

crumpet

nope, should read 13-14v pal can you smell or see where the burning is coming from?

vaughant

iTrader: (1)

Pull the blower fuse and try testing the alternator again,should be around 14v when engines running,give or take about 0.5 of a volt either way.

Try it with all the lights off etc then put them on to check they don't fail under load.

Sounds dodgy if it's only pulling 12v.