RSargie

has anybody had any problems getting thease to work properley??
i have installed one in my rst today. followed the destructions to the "T". calibrated fine, the led light flashes on warm up the goes to constantly on when warmed up. and this is suppost to mean the unit is working corectly. but as soon as it has warmed up the gauge just goes right round to the maximum afr which is 16 or 18 i think. and just stays there. then you go for a blast and the needle goes right round to minimum afr which is 8 and stays there allday long regardless of load/engine speed/revs etc. i am going to remove the sensor and recalibrate it tommorow and ill check it againts the gas analyzer at work. but ffs, it said plug and play on the box yet every wire has to be joined to another and another , all conections must be soldered etc it was a right pain to get in and now the f**King thing wont work!! (rant over now)

any help of similar probs would be great thanks

puddy

I have an innovate kit as well , mine don't work either !

SHITE !

Gonna get a cheaper kit off of fleabay when I have the funds.

puddy

danb21t

you got one earth to the chassis and one to the engine block?

seems people are having problems with these; dodgy batches I guess

mine works fine and has done since I got it, second hand. both earths to the chassis too..

ajamesc

If i was u mate id box it up and send it back they are rubbish i had a good 12v+ live a good low resistance earth and all wires were nicely soildered together and the thing still dident work. Far to over complicated. After getting a refund i got a stack one for less money and it took 15mins to fit and it works spot on!

Chris69

should have bought my vems kit

RSargie

this was about the cheapest on e-bay, only £170 delivered from an approved distributor

RSargie

it says solder all wires together on one terminal and fasten to engine block, and i have done them to chassis. im gonna try block later.

i wanted the stack one but there £215 and as always cost was the deciding factor.

id have had yours if you haddnt sold the egt sensor

RSargie

any way jst to report thismorning it has satyed at afr 18 and drops to 14 when on boost and dosent go anywere else so i must be running dangerously lean or it mabye wants calibrating again. it seams to have got better tho. i carnt be that lean tho as i give the old girl death everywere and she be dead by now lol

Chris69

so your new cheap one has egt? sounds like its accurate aswell- good buy

Dlatch!

A. Interface and power cables with 6 stripped ends*:
a. Red 12V supply <--ignition live
b. Blue Heater Ground (connect this and the white wire together to earth)
c. White System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1 <-simulated narrow band for a guage
e. Brown Analog out 2 <--wideband signal for ecu
f. Black Calibration wire


fitted mine the other day have you got the signal wire right to the guage? edited to add just re read your post bet this is the problem
piece of piss to install

also have you wired the led correctly? as you are getting a steady light showing unit is ready i think you have. but here is the instructions just incase

The LED will communicate the LC-1’s status. To monitor LC-1 status, connect the red wire
(Anode) of the included LED to the calibration wire (black) of the LC-1 and connect the black wire
(Cathode) of the LED to the ground wire of the momentary switch. The grounds to both the
cathode side of the LED and the Push button should be connected with the Heater ground.

RSargie

every thing is wired up as per instructions like what you have listed, cathode and push button all corect and to the same earth as the controller. althought you have listed the gauge be wired up to the yellow wire. and on the instructions included it states that is should be wire up to the brown wire. i have checked this on the websites instructions adn it says the same here is the link

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...uge_Manual.pdf

i have e-maild them today anyway and see what they say.

what gauge are you using and are you using an lc1 or lma1??

gibbo frst

iTrader: (2)

mine works some of the time.. although every so often either when cruising along/coasting or on boost it goes up to 15.2 and locks their with the red led flashing.. it wont reset untill the cars been switched off..

Dlatch!

mines a LC-1 too but i am not using a guage i have it talking to my ecu (megasquirt) for tuning via laptop.

if you have a laptop then connect this to the LC-1 using the logworks software and double check the outputs are set right way also change the update speed to something slightly slower like 1/12th of a sec, it may be you have a duff guage, shame your not closer could have tried it on mine

edited to add.
any issues with your alternator giving anything but a rock steady voltage will cause you problems so well worth checking you have a steady reading at idle.

Retro Al

iTrader: (1)

They are usless anyway,giving my car some beans on track or road i could never look at it to check to busy concentrating on the road,one that alerts you with a loud alarm so you know you have to back off incase its running lean ect would be better

RSargie

ill plug my laptop in in the morning and check alternator voltage as well, never thaught about that. i did have a problem going through black fuel ecu's a while back and all i could put that down to was an over voltage issue. mabye come back.

cossiedave

iTrader: (1)

want to sell it m8

puddy

Maybe, might try hooking it up to my laptop first with a few of the tips from

some of the above posts.

I will let you know.

puddy

RSargie

well today i recalibrated the sensor with the gauge unpluged, i did this twice consecutivly and then pluged it all back together and............. it works yes!!! started car up afr just under 14 on tick over and drops to about 10 when you rev it!! i havent been for a drive yet as i have been giving it a scrub for the east yorkshire show tommorow.
i dont know if was the gauge been unpluged or just the fact i have now calibrated about 6 times but it seams to have done the trick. ill se what the afr is like on boost tommorow and if it keeps working.
i was going to plug the laptop in but it would seam i dont have the correct plug on my laptop so i will do this at a later date.

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

innovate lc1 lm1/2 are fucking terrible ! im surprised this company can sell shite for so long and get away from it

Rod-Tarry

Spend the money on the Stack its worth it. Literally throw it in the dash & it works . Calibrates itself each time. I had an Innovate its hopelessly inaccurate (Marks words after being checked against his reference) at least the Stack got a (Its OK for a rough Check) .

Rick

Not getting into an argument, but the Innovate is more accurate than the Stack. Stack uses a simple analogue controller like the VEMS, zeitronix, and many others. I did a detailed post about it a few years ago. Most tuners "reference" equipment isn't spot on either. Only real way of testing is using lab gases.

Rick

ajamesc

Its as accurate as a guess as 99 times out of a 100 it dont work lol when i got my stack one from rayland engineering i asked him if its accurate and he told me very as he uses it on his metro track car and its not far out from his workshop set up he uses to map with! And if most tunners ''reference'' equipment isn't spot on then it must be good enough as they use it day to day on peoples cars lol (im talking about the bigger name companys here too like m.a.d and rayland)

Rick

Andy, agreed its accurate enough for most uses.

RSargie

well on monday when i get back to work i will check it against the gas analyzer at work and see how it compares. i would have thaught the one we use for mot testing would have to be fairly acurate otherwise we could be failling or passing cars unfairly.

RSargie

well it looks like its out abit, i got a reading if lambda 1.097 on the gas analyzer and the gauge showed th afr to be 13.8 - 14.0 so one of them is telling porkies??? but atleast itl give me a rough guide.
and while im on subject, what is the highest, lowest and optimal afr i shoud be seing on a s2 running 15 psi, at full chat? and if i turn up the boost to say 18 or 20 shoud i need a differant afr or keep it to a level?
now i understand i need watch egt temps as well but that will have to be next month as ive spent up now, but ive never had sighns of a glowing manifold after a good bout on the load pedal so it carnt be that bad.