Weatherproofing a vehicle...
#1
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Howdy people!
My LandRovers being welded up at the moment, when it comes back I would like to protect it from rotting as fast as it did and would like to know what products to use and in which order.
I have about 4litres if Hammerite already, realistically i'm looking at protecting the chassis and underneath, inside the chassis and sills and also the inner boot floor.
As an obvious guess, it seems like I should want cavity wax for inside the sills and chassis, but what should I use for the general underneath?
Someone has suggested 'shultz' to me but have no idea what it should be used for.....
Should I jetwash the underside, let it dry then apply?
Its cost me aprprox £600 in welding so far so would like to preserve it while its fresh!
Thanks in advance![Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
EDIT:
Forgot to say that the Landy will be used for offroading, wading, generally getting covered in mud and muck, due to it having a snorkel and wading gear fitted it can go very deep in water (bonnet submerged) hence wanting to protect it!
My LandRovers being welded up at the moment, when it comes back I would like to protect it from rotting as fast as it did and would like to know what products to use and in which order.
I have about 4litres if Hammerite already, realistically i'm looking at protecting the chassis and underneath, inside the chassis and sills and also the inner boot floor.
As an obvious guess, it seems like I should want cavity wax for inside the sills and chassis, but what should I use for the general underneath?
Someone has suggested 'shultz' to me but have no idea what it should be used for.....
Should I jetwash the underside, let it dry then apply?
Its cost me aprprox £600 in welding so far so would like to preserve it while its fresh!
Thanks in advance
![Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
EDIT:
Forgot to say that the Landy will be used for offroading, wading, generally getting covered in mud and muck, due to it having a snorkel and wading gear fitted it can go very deep in water (bonnet submerged) hence wanting to protect it!
Last edited by CoupeUK; 25-06-2010 at 04:41 PM.
#2
PassionFord Post Troll
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if its bare metal underneath I'd Galvernse, whns the last time you seen a rustie one of these?
![](http://www.mortimerfabs.co.uk/c/images/Kirkby%20motors%20security%20fence%20002_H550.jpg)
we used to use this stuff at work and it bubbled when it hit the metal, sounds impresive rite? haha
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=130249
![](http://www.mortimerfabs.co.uk/c/images/Kirkby%20motors%20security%20fence%20002_H550.jpg)
we used to use this stuff at work and it bubbled when it hit the metal, sounds impresive rite? haha
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=130249
#4
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if its bare metal underneath I'd Galvernse, whns the last time you seen a rustie one of these?
![](http://www.mortimerfabs.co.uk/c/images/Kirkby%20motors%20security%20fence%20002_H550.jpg)
we used to use this stuff at work and it bubbled when it hit the metal, sounds impresive rite? haha
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=130249
![](http://www.mortimerfabs.co.uk/c/images/Kirkby%20motors%20security%20fence%20002_H550.jpg)
we used to use this stuff at work and it bubbled when it hit the metal, sounds impresive rite? haha
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=130249
LOL!
#5
st170 breaking
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+1 ![LOL](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
i'd etch primer the steel then stonechip/shutz then paint over that
ideally you need to seem sealer the overlaps and edges and you could red oxide it then do the other, more layers the better but dont let em react and the bare steel could do with being cleaned with a panel wipe/weak thinners to get ride of residue or any anti splatter or stuff it may have gotten on it
inside chassis is a sod, if cost doesnt matter i'd cavity it a few times but you dont want to mis a mm as thats wherre it will get in next time and spread from the inside
if you could have it galv'd it would be best, or chrome!! that would rule! not rust prof with a scratch but shiney and mud would be good
![LOL](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
i'd etch primer the steel then stonechip/shutz then paint over that
ideally you need to seem sealer the overlaps and edges and you could red oxide it then do the other, more layers the better but dont let em react and the bare steel could do with being cleaned with a panel wipe/weak thinners to get ride of residue or any anti splatter or stuff it may have gotten on it
inside chassis is a sod, if cost doesnt matter i'd cavity it a few times but you dont want to mis a mm as thats wherre it will get in next time and spread from the inside
if you could have it galv'd it would be best, or chrome!! that would rule! not rust prof with a scratch but shiney and mud would be good
#7
PassionFord Post Troll
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could be quite painfull should one slip![Sad](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
how much did your car cost to weld? its only £12 as id imagine one can would do the full car. i'm gona do my Cossie underneath when i bare metal it and paint over the top.
![Sad](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
how much did your car cost to weld? its only £12 as id imagine one can would do the full car. i'm gona do my Cossie underneath when i bare metal it and paint over the top.
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#8
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i'd etch primer the steel then stonechip/shutz then paint over that
ideally you need to seem sealer the overlaps and edges and you could red oxide it then do the other, more layers the better but dont let em react and the bare steel could do with being cleaned with a panel wipe/weak thinners to get ride of residue or any anti splatter or stuff it may have gotten on it
inside chassis is a sod, if cost doesnt matter i'd cavity it a few times but you dont want to mis a mm as thats wherre it will get in next time and spread from the inside
if you could have it galv'd it would be best, or chrome!! that would rule! not rust prof with a scratch but shiney and mud would be good
So I should etch prime the bare metal first after its seam sealed? I'm not bothered about it being painted and looking all pretty as its going to get scuffed anyways, function over form and that....
I dont mind throwing a few tins of cavity wax in the chassis and box sections just to ensure its thoroughly protected, once the floors cleaned up can I just hit it with a good coat(s) of this Shutz stuff? Once its done the first time I can always top it up at a later date, im just paraniod of it rotting away!
A galvanised chassis would be the way forward but theyre bucks to buy
![Sad](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
I cant see 500ml doing thed whole underneath, I doubt it'd do only the fresh metal!
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