rotary engines give me the horn !!!
30-03-2010, 01:47 AM
#1
rotary engines give me the horn !!!
just the sound is fucking immense
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9OjNIx7pLc
how come there not used more often , small lightweight , big power ,
would love to see a mk 3 rwd or something with a motor like this in !!
beef
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9OjNIx7pLc
how come there not used more often , small lightweight , big power ,
would love to see a mk 3 rwd or something with a motor like this in !!
beef
30-03-2010, 06:55 AM
#4
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
The Kiwis are quite prone to sticking them in almost everything, from Mk1/2 Escorts to BMW E30's.
How about this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-280482731.htm
How about this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-280482731.htm
30-03-2010, 07:26 AM
#5
Advanced PassionFord User
How about this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-280482731.htm
Features : sunroof
That thing is cool!
30-03-2010, 07:46 AM
#6
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Rotaries are amazing engines, i think they are better N/A though due to the weight of them and the fact they hate boost. I did a lot of work on a custom dash and instrumentation cluster for a N/A rotary mk2. The engine is tiny but is producing well over the 200bhp mark and runs as smooth as anything. Here is a few pics
Hope you like them, notice the actual size of the engine, you can pick it up on your own
Cheers
Raj
Hope you like them, notice the actual size of the engine, you can pick it up on your own
Cheers
Raj
30-03-2010, 07:59 AM
#7
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If you want a noise listen to this,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YA-xL...=youtube_gdata
mad mike's 26b 4rotor powered rx7 drift car. N/A and apparently about 500hp!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YA-xL...=youtube_gdata
mad mike's 26b 4rotor powered rx7 drift car. N/A and apparently about 500hp!
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30-03-2010, 08:32 AM
#11
30-03-2010, 12:32 PM
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I'd say it's more because of people hearing horror stories about engines going boom due to worn tips and stuff. Unfortunately the people who tell these stories, probably never owned a wankel engine! They really are a fantastic engine and are designed to be revved
.Saw that MK2 in classic ford I think it was and in addition to my brothers RX-7 it convinced me to fit an N/A rotary engine to my Kadett C. Would like a tri-rotar but maybe in a few years.
Raj, I might pm you in the future looking for some engine info if that's okay?
Cheers
Dan
30-03-2010, 04:43 PM
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sounded awesome out in the forrests though
30-03-2010, 07:09 PM
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they are awesome engines.
No other engine can really compete with the amount of hp per litre they put out from factory, pretty much limitless power and very lightweight.
No need to forge internals, can do well over 1000bhp on stock internals(just larger ports and built a little looser)
They have some flaws that put people off....they are very soft when i comes to bad tuning, you can get massive power out of them but if you dont map well or get det then you can throw the engine away.
theres a 13b engine running on methanol pushing 980whp running 6sec quarter miles, that will be on stock internals, just larger ports and seals.
then say you reach 1000bhp and thats not enough, you then bolt another rotor on and another bump in power, even then that might not be enough and bolt another one on to make a 26b and you can have 1600bhp+
As someone mentioned they are alot of bad info about these engines out there, which suddenly makes everyone an expert.
1. Make sure its tuned properly
2. Drive it hard, driving it like miss daisy causes it to carbon up that much that it will seize up of carbon(saw a lady fuck an engine in 22k by not driving it hard)
3. Water seals do degrade after time, its like a head gasket but in the middle of the engine so you need to rebuild the engine to do it.
4. Takes massive power, easily destroy 99% of engines out there if done properly.
5. If your after ultimate reliability then go for a N/A TB engine....300bhp twin rotor, 500bhp triple rotor, 650quad rotor and all will fit in most engine bays.
If you want some more info, i have a build thread about taking one to 700bhp, might help give some information as ive written a fair bit in that
**Beefy**
get a decent engine with turbos for Ł1k
if you use the stock twin turbos, 400bhp can be had pretty cheaply.
put 2 1600cc injectors in at Ł140
fuel rail Ł100
FPR Ł100
larger intercooler...depends what car your putting it in
uprated ignition Ł200
ecu Ł450
apart from other things like fuel pump etc but that would depend what car the engine was going in.
if you want more than that then it depends if you want to rebuild it, you dont need to, ive seen 800bhp on a stock mazda engine with 37k on it on E85 gas
what sort of power would you want, i can give you a rough idea of costs from that
No other engine can really compete with the amount of hp per litre they put out from factory, pretty much limitless power and very lightweight.
No need to forge internals, can do well over 1000bhp on stock internals(just larger ports and built a little looser)
They have some flaws that put people off....they are very soft when i comes to bad tuning, you can get massive power out of them but if you dont map well or get det then you can throw the engine away.
theres a 13b engine running on methanol pushing 980whp running 6sec quarter miles, that will be on stock internals, just larger ports and seals.
then say you reach 1000bhp and thats not enough, you then bolt another rotor on and another bump in power, even then that might not be enough and bolt another one on to make a 26b and you can have 1600bhp+
As someone mentioned they are alot of bad info about these engines out there, which suddenly makes everyone an expert.
1. Make sure its tuned properly
2. Drive it hard, driving it like miss daisy causes it to carbon up that much that it will seize up of carbon(saw a lady fuck an engine in 22k by not driving it hard)
3. Water seals do degrade after time, its like a head gasket but in the middle of the engine so you need to rebuild the engine to do it.
4. Takes massive power, easily destroy 99% of engines out there if done properly.
5. If your after ultimate reliability then go for a N/A TB engine....300bhp twin rotor, 500bhp triple rotor, 650quad rotor and all will fit in most engine bays.
If you want some more info, i have a build thread about taking one to 700bhp, might help give some information as ive written a fair bit in that
**Beefy**
get a decent engine with turbos for Ł1k
if you use the stock twin turbos, 400bhp can be had pretty cheaply.
put 2 1600cc injectors in at Ł140
fuel rail Ł100
FPR Ł100
larger intercooler...depends what car your putting it in
uprated ignition Ł200
ecu Ł450
apart from other things like fuel pump etc but that would depend what car the engine was going in.
if you want more than that then it depends if you want to rebuild it, you dont need to, ive seen 800bhp on a stock mazda engine with 37k on it on E85 gas
what sort of power would you want, i can give you a rough idea of costs from that
Last edited by turbotoaster; 30-03-2010 at 07:14 PM.
30-03-2010, 07:13 PM
#20
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
rotary are well known to wear pretty quick..
But are fast as f***
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVg0nAUuvB4
But are fast as f***
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVg0nAUuvB4
30-03-2010, 07:25 PM
#21
they are awesome engines.
No other engine can really compete with the amount of hp per litre they put out from factory, pretty much limitless power and very lightweight.
No need to forge internals, can do well over 1000bhp on stock internals(just larger ports and built a little looser)
They have some flaws that put people off....they are very soft when i comes to bad tuning, you can get massive power out of them but if you dont map well or get det then you can throw the engine away.
theres a 13b engine running on methanol pushing 980whp running 6sec quarter miles, that will be on stock internals, just larger ports and seals.
then say you reach 1000bhp and thats not enough, you then bolt another rotor on and another bump in power, even then that might not be enough and bolt another one on to make a 26b and you can have 1600bhp+
As someone mentioned they are alot of bad info about these engines out there, which suddenly makes everyone an expert.
1. Make sure its tuned properly
2. Drive it hard, driving it like miss daisy causes it to carbon up that much that it will seize up of carbon(saw a lady fuck an engine in 22k by not driving it hard)
3. Water seals do degrade after time, its like a head gasket but in the middle of the engine so you need to rebuild the engine to do it.
4. Takes massive power, easily destroy 99% of engines out there if done properly.
5. If your after ultimate reliability then go for a N/A TB engine....300bhp twin rotor, 500bhp triple rotor, 650quad rotor and all will fit in most engine bays.
If you want some more info, i have a build thread about taking one to 700bhp, might help give some information as ive written a fair bit in that
**Beefy**
get a decent engine with turbos for Ł1k
if you use the stock twin turbos, 400bhp can be had pretty cheaply.
put 2 1600cc injectors in at Ł140
fuel rail Ł100
FPR Ł100
larger intercooler...depends what car your putting it in
uprated ignition Ł200
ecu Ł450
apart from other things like fuel pump etc but that would depend what car the engine was going in.
if you want more than that then it depends if you want to rebuild it, you dont need to, ive seen 800bhp on a stock mazda engine with 37k on it on E85 gas
what sort of power would you want, i can give you a rough idea of costs from that
No other engine can really compete with the amount of hp per litre they put out from factory, pretty much limitless power and very lightweight.
No need to forge internals, can do well over 1000bhp on stock internals(just larger ports and built a little looser)
They have some flaws that put people off....they are very soft when i comes to bad tuning, you can get massive power out of them but if you dont map well or get det then you can throw the engine away.
theres a 13b engine running on methanol pushing 980whp running 6sec quarter miles, that will be on stock internals, just larger ports and seals.
then say you reach 1000bhp and thats not enough, you then bolt another rotor on and another bump in power, even then that might not be enough and bolt another one on to make a 26b and you can have 1600bhp+
As someone mentioned they are alot of bad info about these engines out there, which suddenly makes everyone an expert.
1. Make sure its tuned properly
2. Drive it hard, driving it like miss daisy causes it to carbon up that much that it will seize up of carbon(saw a lady fuck an engine in 22k by not driving it hard)
3. Water seals do degrade after time, its like a head gasket but in the middle of the engine so you need to rebuild the engine to do it.
4. Takes massive power, easily destroy 99% of engines out there if done properly.
5. If your after ultimate reliability then go for a N/A TB engine....300bhp twin rotor, 500bhp triple rotor, 650quad rotor and all will fit in most engine bays.
If you want some more info, i have a build thread about taking one to 700bhp, might help give some information as ive written a fair bit in that
**Beefy**
get a decent engine with turbos for Ł1k
if you use the stock twin turbos, 400bhp can be had pretty cheaply.
put 2 1600cc injectors in at Ł140
fuel rail Ł100
FPR Ł100
larger intercooler...depends what car your putting it in
uprated ignition Ł200
ecu Ł450
apart from other things like fuel pump etc but that would depend what car the engine was going in.
if you want more than that then it depends if you want to rebuild it, you dont need to, ive seen 800bhp on a stock mazda engine with 37k on it on E85 gas
what sort of power would you want, i can give you a rough idea of costs from that
its the curiosty of them at the moment thats got me fella, like most i assumes they were higly strung ticking timebombs
as for power , not sure as i assume it depends what route you go ?
also whats the power delivery like on these , its it a load of bottme end grunt say like a cossie or with it a strung out powerband
seems alot cheaper than a yb and th weight of them is alwas a godf thing ,
deffo think id want a turbo though if i was to have one ,
link to your build mate
beef
30-03-2010, 08:01 PM
#25
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https://passionford.com/forum/genera...or-200mph.html
https://passionford.com/forum/restor...rbo-build.html
theres different info in each of them beef so should help out.
The 60k rule is a load of rubbish aswell.
Its not about miles, its about usage.
Water seals are a common fault on rotarys, they are made of rubber and as you can imagine go through many heat cycles, this makes them brittle and they split, hence they need to be replaced(rebuild time)
So if you have an engine that has been used for long trips, it could easily go over 100k because its not had alot of heat cycles.
If the engine was in a car that only drove to the local shops all its life then it might not last 50k before they split.
Ive got a friend whos on 89k on original engine with no issues.
America seems to last the longest as all there trips are pretty far distances.
When it comes to how they make there power then it all depends on how much power you want, as that dictates the turbo and hence powerband and shape.
eg on stock twins running 400bhp you will have a massively wide power range, full boost at 2.1k reving up to 8.5k and possibly 300lb from 3k with 350-370lb of torque at 5k
They arnt timebombs as long as you have them mapped correctly....its all in the tune, especially with rotarys.
If you give me a power figure ill get you an appriate powerband for that
https://passionford.com/forum/restor...rbo-build.html
theres different info in each of them beef so should help out.
The 60k rule is a load of rubbish aswell.
Its not about miles, its about usage.
Water seals are a common fault on rotarys, they are made of rubber and as you can imagine go through many heat cycles, this makes them brittle and they split, hence they need to be replaced(rebuild time)
So if you have an engine that has been used for long trips, it could easily go over 100k because its not had alot of heat cycles.
If the engine was in a car that only drove to the local shops all its life then it might not last 50k before they split.
Ive got a friend whos on 89k on original engine with no issues.
America seems to last the longest as all there trips are pretty far distances.
When it comes to how they make there power then it all depends on how much power you want, as that dictates the turbo and hence powerband and shape.
eg on stock twins running 400bhp you will have a massively wide power range, full boost at 2.1k reving up to 8.5k and possibly 300lb from 3k with 350-370lb of torque at 5k
They arnt timebombs as long as you have them mapped correctly....its all in the tune, especially with rotarys.
If you give me a power figure ill get you an appriate powerband for that
30-03-2010, 08:03 PM
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i know people talk about there wear issues, but how many cossys stay together for 60k miles in 1 stint, not many as most are tuned again or blown up so need a rebuild anyway,
whats the cost on a rebuild.
as im looking for engine ideas for my next project.
whats the cost on a rebuild.
as im looking for engine ideas for my next project.
30-03-2010, 08:15 PM
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Finally, someone who realises their potential
. As you say, there's no need for stronger internals to increase power. Parts wise, they are a relatively simple engine. Also for big power on turbo'd ones, some people go single turbo. A lot more reliable due to less sensors and stuff. Would you agree?Some lads I know also run 2-stroke oil in their petrol. Reckon it helps protect the tips for longer! I'm not sure on that one though!
30-03-2010, 08:28 PM
#28
i love myn. my freinds have got them to.
they sound properly epic and they go like stink. imo the gen 3 rx7 is still one of the best lookin cars, i can park myn next to a db9 and it doesnt look bad at all.
im currently rebuilding my engine but thats not a big deal. only cost me a couple hundred quid and itl last me 60,000+ becuase its the tips that wear and ive put titanium tips in.
disagree with the guy saying they dont like boost. they do!
and as for horror stories, they are very vunrable to bad tuning, the slightest detonation and the engine will break, so 9/10 when one blows up its becuase people have changed bits without accordingly altering the map or because bumlords have brought them onto boost cold.
people often think there knackerd when they haze when started. they burn oil by design.
they sound properly epic and they go like stink. imo the gen 3 rx7 is still one of the best lookin cars, i can park myn next to a db9 and it doesnt look bad at all.
im currently rebuilding my engine but thats not a big deal. only cost me a couple hundred quid and itl last me 60,000+ becuase its the tips that wear and ive put titanium tips in.
disagree with the guy saying they dont like boost. they do!
and as for horror stories, they are very vunrable to bad tuning, the slightest detonation and the engine will break, so 9/10 when one blows up its becuase people have changed bits without accordingly altering the map or because bumlords have brought them onto boost cold.
people often think there knackerd when they haze when started. they burn oil by design.
30-03-2010, 08:48 PM
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just the sound is fucking immense
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9OjNIx7pLc
how come there not used more often , small lightweight , big power ,
would love to see a mk 3 rwd or something with a motor like this in !!
beef
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9OjNIx7pLc
how come there not used more often , small lightweight , big power ,
would love to see a mk 3 rwd or something with a motor like this in !!
beef
second one is a 12a engine, thats actually a 1.2litre engine running 8sec quarters!
A cost of a basic rebuild...ie drive in drive out is Ł1850 with full 12month 12,000 warrante.
if you want more power from the engine then porting costs Ł200 which is like fitting cams and porting the head....so Ł200 lets you go up to 700bhp
because people wont sell good engines as they are very useful, when something breaks on an engine they replace whats broke and use the rest of the parts.
30-03-2010, 09:18 PM
#34
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i think thats bewtew's 20b, hes putting out
heres a vid of it
817whp!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3u6s...eature=related
30-03-2010, 09:26 PM
#35
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i think thats bewtew's 20b, hes putting out
heres a vid of it
817whp!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3u6s...eature=related
heres a vid of it
817whp!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3u6s...eature=related
30-03-2010, 10:25 PM
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Wanker Engines mmm .. Did a whole fucking week on them ..
Twin wankers are decent but they cannot clock the miles .. (Waiting for the: My Mates Mates Uncles has one with 200k on the clock)
They are excellent Power motors but they Are fairly Un-reliable .. Thats why not many use them ..
Twin wankers are decent but they cannot clock the miles .. (Waiting for the: My Mates Mates Uncles has one with 200k on the clock
)They are excellent Power motors but they Are fairly Un-reliable .. Thats why not many use them ..
30-03-2010, 10:41 PM
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Wanker Engines mmm .. Did a whole fucking week on them ..
Twin wankers are decent but they cannot clock the miles .. (Waiting for the: My Mates Mates Uncles has one with 200k on the clock)
They are excellent Power motors but they Are fairly Un-reliable .. Thats why not many use them ..
Twin wankers are decent but they cannot clock the miles .. (Waiting for the: My Mates Mates Uncles has one with 200k on the clock
)They are excellent Power motors but they Are fairly Un-reliable .. Thats why not many use them ..
30-03-2010, 10:53 PM
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30-03-2010, 11:14 PM
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the 26b engine out of the 787b had adjustable throttle body trumpets so they were longer below 6k to give it more torque and slowly shortened as the revs rose to 9.5k to get maximum power, its an awesome engine, so much so that it won the lemans 24hrs and then all rotary engines were banned from the event 