How would I go about plasterboarding this??....
22-09-2009, 09:18 PM
#1
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How would I go about plasterboarding this??....
Decided to give the garage a bit of a makeover as its looking a bit tired and could do with a good sort out!!
Basically what I want to know is is it possible to plaster board the walls in the garage, in particular the stony wall (see below pics). Its not an outside wall as the house is the other side of it but if I bolt straight onto the wall would I suffer from damp etc? Same applies to the outside blocked wall of the garage. Would I have to stud it and insulate then apply the plasterboard? (dont particularly want to do that as it will make the garage smaller!
Any advice would be great!
Cheers
Basically what I want to know is is it possible to plaster board the walls in the garage, in particular the stony wall (see below pics). Its not an outside wall as the house is the other side of it but if I bolt straight onto the wall would I suffer from damp etc? Same applies to the outside blocked wall of the garage. Would I have to stud it and insulate then apply the plasterboard? (dont particularly want to do that as it will make the garage smaller!
Any advice would be great!
Cheers
22-09-2009, 09:21 PM
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How about some white plastic sheeting? Wipe clean surface, you can write wish lists/notes on it in drywipe marker and stick things to it. Don't have to worry about it then!
22-09-2009, 09:24 PM
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22-09-2009, 09:36 PM
#8
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PMSL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Was just reading that thread as it goes!!!!!! No fook all about building so wasnt going to comment.....!!
In all seriousness i'd like it to be permenant....
Rick Astley - Did cross my mind using plastic but often gets dusty in there so will scratch very easily.
Would having a damp proof membrane on the walls do in between?
Chris
In all seriousness i'd like it to be permenant....
Rick Astley - Did cross my mind using plastic but often gets dusty in there so will scratch very easily.
Would having a damp proof membrane on the walls do in between?
Chris
22-09-2009, 09:55 PM
#10
Im a waterproofer. The membrane would be very expensive if installed correctly. To be done correctly you'd need channels in the floor in case water did come through and seep under the membrane if that makes sense.
Normally we use a floor membrane and link it all together.
Anyway if you havent had and water troubles then i wouldn't worry about it if it a semi-permanent thing.
Id personally track the walls out all level keeping as close as possible to the walls to save space in the garage and then paster board it up. Then plaster over. Job done.
P.s: If you want it water proofed let me know, ill do you a good deal.
Normally we use a floor membrane and link it all together.
Anyway if you havent had and water troubles then i wouldn't worry about it if it a semi-permanent thing.
Id personally track the walls out all level keeping as close as possible to the walls to save space in the garage and then paster board it up. Then plaster over. Job done.
P.s: If you want it water proofed let me know, ill do you a good deal.
22-09-2009, 10:01 PM
#11
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if its dry in there which it should be then its easy
you can get insulated plasterboard.
it comes in different thicknesses for different heat values.
just get the cheap polystyrene backed stuff if its warm in there.
then get dry lining adhisive and glue it to the walls.
you just mix it with water, put a load of blobs on the boards then stick and level it to the walls.
brush them down 1st to get the dust off them, then soak them with a hose so theyre not too dry.
you can get insulated plasterboard.
it comes in different thicknesses for different heat values.
just get the cheap polystyrene backed stuff if its warm in there.
then get dry lining adhisive and glue it to the walls.
you just mix it with water, put a load of blobs on the boards then stick and level it to the walls.
brush them down 1st to get the dust off them, then soak them with a hose so theyre not too dry.
Last edited by stu21t; 22-09-2009 at 10:02 PM.
22-09-2009, 10:18 PM
#14
Coldo loves seamen
if its dry in there which it should be then its easy
you can get insulated plasterboard.
it comes in different thicknesses for different heat values.
just get the cheap polystyrene backed stuff if its warm in there.
then get dry lining adhisive and glue it to the walls.
you just mix it with water, put a load of blobs on the boards then stick and level it to the walls.
brush them down 1st to get the dust off them, then soak them with a hose so theyre not too dry.
you can get insulated plasterboard.
it comes in different thicknesses for different heat values.
just get the cheap polystyrene backed stuff if its warm in there.
then get dry lining adhisive and glue it to the walls.
you just mix it with water, put a load of blobs on the boards then stick and level it to the walls.
brush them down 1st to get the dust off them, then soak them with a hose so theyre not too dry.
22-09-2009, 10:21 PM
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22-09-2009, 10:27 PM
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22-09-2009, 10:39 PM
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Im a waterproofer. The membrane would be very expensive if installed correctly. To be done correctly you'd need channels in the floor in case water did come through and seep under the membrane if that makes sense.
Normally we use a floor membrane and link it all together.
Anyway if you havent had and water troubles then i wouldn't worry about it if it a semi-permanent thing.
Id personally track the walls out all level keeping as close as possible to the walls to save space in the garage and then paster board it up. Then plaster over. Job done.
P.s: If you want it water proofed let me know, ill do you a good deal.
Normally we use a floor membrane and link it all together.
Anyway if you havent had and water troubles then i wouldn't worry about it if it a semi-permanent thing.
Id personally track the walls out all level keeping as close as possible to the walls to save space in the garage and then paster board it up. Then plaster over. Job done.
P.s: If you want it water proofed let me know, ill do you a good deal.
It shouldnt seep under if done right. Also shouldnt be
puntured once applyed
22-09-2009, 10:47 PM
#20
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17mm polystyrene backed is same price as foilbacked and a lot less than aquaboard.
I can't see it getting wet in there the outside wall should b pebbledashed to match the rest of the house.
I can't see it getting wet in there the outside wall should b pebbledashed to match the rest of the house.
22-09-2009, 10:57 PM
#21
if your going to board it make sure that you keep the boards off the floor say around half inch, otherwise if on the fllor they will draw the damp from the floor.
I personally would go for std 12mm boards in there and a bit of dotting and dabbing, as long as you havnt got any leaks or water getting in it should be fine, also if your going to hang up tools etc might be worth attaching a decent piece of board up there behind your plasterboards as something solid to hang and shelves or heavy items on
cheers
Paul
I personally would go for std 12mm boards in there and a bit of dotting and dabbing, as long as you havnt got any leaks or water getting in it should be fine, also if your going to hang up tools etc might be worth attaching a decent piece of board up there behind your plasterboards as something solid to hang and shelves or heavy items on
cheers
Paul
22-09-2009, 11:56 PM
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23-09-2009, 07:29 AM
#24
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Cheers guys, water wise I have no damp problems whatsoever.... Not overly overly worried about insulation as all garages get cold in winter, i'll be boarding and plasterboarding the roof so i can store stuff up top and insulating so will keep a lot of warmth in, plus the tumble dryer is used frequently so warms up the place in minutes!! I presume if I were to insulate it i'd just need to do the outside wall?
I've never heard of that dot and dab thing?? Where can i buy dry lining adhesive, any DIY store? Wouldnt it be the same as just raw plugging and screwing the boards on? (probably less messy!!), then filling over the holes, sealing the seems of the board joins and painting? (not after an A1 finish as it is a garage!) Would having 2x1 batons down the walls and a thin layer of rockwool or similar be any good or am I wasting my time doing it that way?
Lee Reynolds - Other side of the breeze is brick then side gate so no buildings joining it.
thanks
Chris
I've never heard of that dot and dab thing?? Where can i buy dry lining adhesive, any DIY store? Wouldnt it be the same as just raw plugging and screwing the boards on? (probably less messy!!), then filling over the holes, sealing the seems of the board joins and painting? (not after an A1 finish as it is a garage!) Would having 2x1 batons down the walls and a thin layer of rockwool or similar be any good or am I wasting my time doing it that way?
Lee Reynolds - Other side of the breeze is brick then side gate so no buildings joining it.
thanks
Chris
Last edited by cfoster; 23-09-2009 at 07:30 AM.
23-09-2009, 08:09 AM
#25
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Dot & Dab is where you dab the adhesive on the wall for the plasterboard to stick to. Adhesive can be bought from DIY stores. For the joints get some scrim tape.
Googled a pic of dot & dab for you
Googled a pic of dot & dab for you
23-09-2009, 08:27 AM
#28
Cheers guys, water wise I have no damp problems whatsoever.... Not overly overly worried about insulation as all garages get cold in winter, i'll be boarding and plasterboarding the roof so i can store stuff up top and insulating so will keep a lot of warmth in, plus the tumble dryer is used frequently so warms up the place in minutes!! I presume if I were to insulate it i'd just need to do the outside wall?
I've never heard of that dot and dab thing?? Where can i buy dry lining adhesive, any DIY store? Wouldnt it be the same as just raw plugging and screwing the boards on? (probably less messy!!), then filling over the holes, sealing the seems of the board joins and painting? (not after an A1 finish as it is a garage!) Would having 2x1 batons down the walls and a thin layer of rockwool or similar be any good or am I wasting my time doing it that way?
Lee Reynolds - Other side of the breeze is brick then side gate so no buildings joining it.
thanks
Chris
I've never heard of that dot and dab thing?? Where can i buy dry lining adhesive, any DIY store? Wouldnt it be the same as just raw plugging and screwing the boards on? (probably less messy!!), then filling over the holes, sealing the seems of the board joins and painting? (not after an A1 finish as it is a garage!) Would having 2x1 batons down the walls and a thin layer of rockwool or similar be any good or am I wasting my time doing it that way?
Lee Reynolds - Other side of the breeze is brick then side gate so no buildings joining it.
thanks
Chris
Last edited by mynew2; 23-09-2009 at 08:28 AM.
23-09-2009, 10:17 AM
#29
Also it can be puntured as long as you use a correct fixings.
I do it on a daily basis.
Last edited by Billy_RS; 23-09-2009 at 10:20 AM.
23-09-2009, 05:06 PM
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Am guessing the garage has been built at ground level, so any water trying to get in would run down his drive or in the garden. By looking at the pic and how dry it is, this is whats happening.
Ave seen guys doing it on a site a was on. It looked like they sealed the walls to the floor all round .
23-09-2009, 06:14 PM
#32
Am guessing the garage has been built at ground level, so any water trying to get in would run down his drive or in the garden. By looking at the pic and how dry it is, this is whats happening.
Ave seen guys doing it on a site a was on. It looked like they sealed the walls to the floor all round .
Ave seen guys doing it on a site a was on. It looked like they sealed the walls to the floor all round .
Id never go to that extreme on a garage and as said, being ground level the chance of getting major if any water through the walls is minor.
Just dob and dab the the walls and paint, will look nice and clean!
23-09-2009, 07:15 PM
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Personaly i wouldnt bother with pb at all if youve never worked with any of the above
id battern the walls with 19/38 battens @ 400 centres and ply with 12mm or similar ply fill the screw holes with normal decorators filler job done also makes it simple for shelves etc, if youve never had damp problems then i woulnt worry
the ply will be 2440x1220 in size set the battetns so theres less cutting as possible
also plasterboard is ok for bedrooms, living rooms, kitchens etc but in a garage your gonna want something with abit more strength and something more hard wearing which is why the majiorty of garages arnt a plastered finish.
good luck
id battern the walls with 19/38 battens @ 400 centres and ply with 12mm or similar ply fill the screw holes with normal decorators filler job done also makes it simple for shelves etc, if youve never had damp problems then i woulnt worry
the ply will be 2440x1220 in size set the battetns so theres less cutting as possible
also plasterboard is ok for bedrooms, living rooms, kitchens etc but in a garage your gonna want something with abit more strength and something more hard wearing which is why the majiorty of garages arnt a plastered finish.
good luck
Last edited by bad boy rs; 23-09-2009 at 09:07 PM.
23-09-2009, 07:26 PM
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Exactly. It join to the floor membrane and will have to have channels cut into the floor leading to a plunge hole with a pump.
Id never go to that extreme on a garage and as said, being ground level the chance of getting major if any water through the walls is minor.
Just dob and dab the the walls and paint, will look nice and clean!
Id never go to that extreme on a garage and as said, being ground level the chance of getting major if any water through the walls is minor.
Just dob and dab the the walls and paint, will look nice and clean!
Sorry but ave never seen your method used with any of Grace, Sika or Stirling Lloyds products.
Last edited by toff; 23-09-2009 at 07:29 PM.
23-09-2009, 08:21 PM
#36
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if you plan on hanging anything on the wall i'd go with the float and skim as above if not then just dryline it and as a rough guide you will probaby get 2.5 plasterboards per bag of adhesive thats 8x4 boards
23-09-2009, 08:31 PM
#37
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My plasterer uses 1.5 boards to a bag! I will not have minimum dabs behind our boarding. Rough imo.
Chris, if thats the case with the block/brick wall then youll be fine to dry line it. Go for it. One thing, the DPC on garage is usually 150mm above the concrete level if it is an integral, as the base sits lower than the house floor because of fuel spill etc. If this is the case with yours(easy check) then really you want to keep the boards above that as you will get mould. What you do with the 150mm gap at the bottom then is never going to be perfect but you could make it something like by fitting a skirting board on timber battens/nogs. Before fitting the battens you could paint the wall with a bitumen based paint like visqueen tanking primer.
Chris, if thats the case with the block/brick wall then youll be fine to dry line it. Go for it. One thing, the DPC on garage is usually 150mm above the concrete level if it is an integral, as the base sits lower than the house floor because of fuel spill etc. If this is the case with yours(easy check) then really you want to keep the boards above that as you will get mould. What you do with the 150mm gap at the bottom then is never going to be perfect but you could make it something like by fitting a skirting board on timber battens/nogs. Before fitting the battens you could paint the wall with a bitumen based paint like visqueen tanking primer.
Last edited by Lee Reynolds; 23-09-2009 at 08:35 PM.
23-09-2009, 09:23 PM
#39
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My plasterer uses 1.5 boards to a bag! I will not have minimum dabs behind our boarding. Rough imo.
Chris, if thats the case with the block/brick wall then youll be fine to dry line it. Go for it. One thing, the DPC on garage is usually 150mm above the concrete level if it is an integral, as the base sits lower than the house floor because of fuel spill etc. If this is the case with yours(easy check) then really you want to keep the boards above that as you will get mould. What you do with the 150mm gap at the bottom then is never going to be perfect but you could make it something like by fitting a skirting board on timber battens/nogs. Before fitting the battens you could paint the wall with a bitumen based paint like visqueen tanking primer.
Chris, if thats the case with the block/brick wall then youll be fine to dry line it. Go for it. One thing, the DPC on garage is usually 150mm above the concrete level if it is an integral, as the base sits lower than the house floor because of fuel spill etc. If this is the case with yours(easy check) then really you want to keep the boards above that as you will get mould. What you do with the 150mm gap at the bottom then is never going to be perfect but you could make it something like by fitting a skirting board on timber battens/nogs. Before fitting the battens you could paint the wall with a bitumen based paint like visqueen tanking primer.
Its just block that has been rendered. Never had any damp or water probs etc.... Only pic of the front is this one to show the outside.....
23-09-2009, 09:37 PM
#40
Personaly i wouldnt bother with pb at all if youve never worked with any of the above
id battern the walls with 19/38 battens @ 400 centres and ply with 12mm or similar ply fill the screw holes with normal decorators filler job done also makes it simple for shelves etc, if youve never had damp problems then i woulnt worry
the ply will be 2440x1220 in size set the battetns so theres less cutting as possible
also plasterboard is ok for bedrooms, living rooms, kitchens etc but in a garage your gonna want something with abit more strength and something more hard wearing which is why the majiorty of garages arnt a plastered finish.
good luck
id battern the walls with 19/38 battens @ 400 centres and ply with 12mm or similar ply fill the screw holes with normal decorators filler job done also makes it simple for shelves etc, if youve never had damp problems then i woulnt worry
the ply will be 2440x1220 in size set the battetns so theres less cutting as possible
also plasterboard is ok for bedrooms, living rooms, kitchens etc but in a garage your gonna want something with abit more strength and something more hard wearing which is why the majiorty of garages arnt a plastered finish.
good luck
if you want some insulation then fill the gaps between the battens with some foam stuff