Mike C

iTrader: (1)

Anyone on here removed an Escort MK5/6/Cosworth roofskin?

The spotwelds down the sides and at the front are obvious enough I think, but I'm not entirely sure about the rear.

There appears to be 2 rows of spotwelds, the furthest ones being right on the the seam under the tailgate. I'm assuming these are the ones I need to drill out?

But if so, it looks like it's welded on the end pieces, and will need cutting through, but from what I've heard it's just a case of drilling spotwelds out, so I'm slightly confused by that one.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Martin-Hadland

iTrader: (2)

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

So there are spots at the seam on the side then?

If that's the case, bingo!

Cheers Martin

Luca

iTrader: (2)

Did you speak to Mike mate at Central Day - if you went of course

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

No Mate, I wasn't there! Was there any vital information I missed out on? Might give him a call.

Luca

iTrader: (2)

No nothing new that im aware off but he was there with a stand, was swarmed all day too

He is possibly at Classic Ford show, just a nice oppertunity to have a face to face natter about things.

panelbeater

obviously don't drill the ones shown where the tailgate rubber sits, the way the arrows are pointing otherwise you will end up with holes through the remaining 2 pieces of metal

Lo@der

iTrader: (8)

Ones at the front under the windscreen rubber??

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

Now that's one thing that I was worried about because how do you get the drill in from the top? You're hampered by the top of the roof. But don't you end up with holes where all the front ones under the windscreen have been removed in the metal underneath, and the sides too anyway when you come through from the top?

Luke, yeah I heard he had a stand. Good to know it was busy, massive potential for more products for Mike I think

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

Yes mate, it's easy with the screen out. Just scrape off all the sealant (or linish it is much quicker and easy) and it will expose them

Martin-Hadland

iTrader: (2)

You have to drill through at least one thickness to enable removal (I'm sure one part has three parts) Using a spot weld drill bit is obviously required.

It ends up a bit like this..

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

That's what I thought. At least that's what I've ended up with at the front with the couple I've done. Couldn't see how it was avoidable so hoped I hadn't done anything wrong, lol!

So those ones at the rear, did you drill them out from the underneath (the way the arrows are pointing) or from the top (which looks awkward to me)?

Think things are becoming clearer now!

panelbeater

bend the lip over to aid access to the welds on the opposite side, drill the welds then panel the lip back over, simple

Martin-Hadland

iTrader: (2)

The ones where the rubber sits I drill out from the rear, check how many layers of metal there are and only go through enough not all! If you do it that way you can then plug weld the replacement skin in place, its not the end of the world if you go all the way through on the odd one it just takes a bit of skill with the MIG welder to sort .

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

Cheers chaps, much appreciated!

Think I'm on the right track now.

S1

Not sure if its the same on the Mk5/6 escorts but quite often you will come across braze where the roof skin meets the top of the a-pillars. It really needs to be taken off to get a clean weld.

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

How does this look. Done both sides like this pretty much. Here's one side as an example:









I've found the spot weld drill bit to be a bit of a pain in the arse! It keep slipping, hence the mess around some of them. I used a centre punch, but that didn't really do a lot to be honest, so then got it started with a normal, thin drill bit, then continued with the spot weld remover, and that seems to have helped quite a bit, so a little happier with them now.

I just don't want to go too far down and make a horlicks of it! Am I missing anything?

And at the front, it's such a fine line between going through the one skin and through the piece underneath as well, hence this one



It would be ideal to drill them out from underneath if they're going to go through both as they're so much easier to locate from the underside.

New skin is going to be carbon fibre, and hence bonded on. Can any holes left behind still be filled in afterwards? (plug weld and grind I guess)

jacko

if the new skin is carbon you can use an air file to take the old one off it mens you dont disturb the bits its welded to

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

I did think about that, but was unsure about doing the sides. The front would be easy enough becuase you could leave the whole front lip, and I guess the rear would be pretty much the same.

It seems a relatively straightforward job, just being a little cautious as I've never tackled anything quite like this before, lol.

S1

It is straightforward mate, just need to take your time and remove it cleanly.













Finished result.

foreigneRS

have you braced the pillars before removal to keep everything lined up?

jacko

it wont move mate he is only removing a skin

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

S1- looks a very tiday job mate!

As said, it's only a skin, no structural strength in it.

Kelv

iTrader: (4)

Martoon will be getting mine to change anyway.

Although hes not fully aware of this as yet

jacko

whats wrong with it you aint rolled it have you

Kelv

iTrader: (4)

LOL, not this one

Mike C has taken on all the efforts in getting Carbon Roof skins made for several of us, mine being one of them

SillyFezzaMk1

iTrader: (1)

I've got all this to come

Happy Days

Dan

jacko

verry nice id love to do a full carbon escos

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

S1, any chance you could re-host those top few pics. Fiesta Turbo won't allow links to other sites by the looks, and I tried pasting in the URL and you still get that same forbidden message

S1

FT is down at the mo so cant see the pics ive posted!

These are on my photobucket.

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

Cheers mate, good job!

S1

Looking at your photo's again, it looks like you're using the type of spot-weld drill that looks like a mini hole-cutter. I much prefer the other type that looks like a flat drill bit. They are more expensive but give a much better job imo. Just keep the drill square to the job. If you look carefully you can see the difference when you go through the skins so you dont go through the second layer. Also get yourself a thin pallet knife and sharpen it up with a grinder so you can use it with a hammer to slide between the layers/panels to break them apart.

Luca

iTrader: (2)

Hello mate, what process did you use to remove the sound deadening on the floor? Looks like an ultra clean method.

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

Sound deadening!

That's something else that's giving me a nightmare at present

Lo@der

iTrader: (8)

some very helpful info here for when i come to do mine . cheers.

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

I'm almost there now. Just packed up for this evening as my drill ran out of charge, but should be finished by about this time tomorrow fingers crossed!

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

Something came up on thursday, so did it today instead. All done now. Fairly straightforward, just takes a little time. The rear was a bit of a pain in the arse, seemed to be loads of very randomly placed welds in the two rear corners. Got 90% off nice and cleanly, but the rear will need a little welding/tidying before the carbon skin goes on. Was a bit of a nightmare to separate along the rear seam, especially where it's triple skinned. As Martin says though, it's nothing a bit of welding and grinding won't fix!

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

Few pics for anyone who's interested!

Rab

Such a cool car!

Mike C

iTrader: (1)

Cheers! Can't wait to get the shell finished and painted, should look alright then