has anyone on here ever been a paint sprayer? need advice on bumper.
#1
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has anyone on here ever been a paint sprayer? need advice on bumper.
has anyone on here ever been a paint sprayer?
just wanted some advice,
had a bumper sprayed by someone and noticed its a good job but theres little black lumps on some parts.
guy told me its just dust and will come out with g3 compound.
question is does that sound correct?
the bumper has been laqured but not mopped to polish the finish yet so theres slight orange peel effect in laqure because its not been mopped, he told me to use g3.
anyone advize or best product to use on a freshly painted bumper to get the shine, also to remove these tiny dust marks dont have a proper garage mopping tool.
heres a couple closeup pics
thanks
just wanted some advice,
had a bumper sprayed by someone and noticed its a good job but theres little black lumps on some parts.
guy told me its just dust and will come out with g3 compound.
question is does that sound correct?
the bumper has been laqured but not mopped to polish the finish yet so theres slight orange peel effect in laqure because its not been mopped, he told me to use g3.
anyone advize or best product to use on a freshly painted bumper to get the shine, also to remove these tiny dust marks dont have a proper garage mopping tool.
heres a couple closeup pics
thanks
Last edited by rsguy; 05-04-2009 at 07:36 PM.
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#8
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thanks guys.
not sure what type paint it was was done in, i know he said he went to halfords to get a litre mixed. ( a69 ) and got the lauquer and activator there so would that be waterbased / 2pac / or cellulose?
he applyed primer the the colour basecoat then top coat lacquer.
was just worried about the though of useing sandpaper on lacquer as i thought if you use sandpaper it would take the lacquer off ?
do i just go over it very light with wet & dry 2000 grade?
how do you know when you have sanded it down lightly enough? does the lacquer finish go dull ?
oh and is there anythink else i could use with that g3 or g6 stuff as i dont have a mop.
thanks for the help
not sure what type paint it was was done in, i know he said he went to halfords to get a litre mixed. ( a69 ) and got the lauquer and activator there so would that be waterbased / 2pac / or cellulose?
he applyed primer the the colour basecoat then top coat lacquer.
was just worried about the though of useing sandpaper on lacquer as i thought if you use sandpaper it would take the lacquer off ?
do i just go over it very light with wet & dry 2000 grade?
how do you know when you have sanded it down lightly enough? does the lacquer finish go dull ?
oh and is there anythink else i could use with that g3 or g6 stuff as i dont have a mop.
thanks for the help
Last edited by rsguy; 06-04-2009 at 12:48 AM.
#10
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You dont need a professional mop anyway, just takes a lot longer and you get a sore arm
You may be better hiring one for the day, prob only a £5. Just remember to keep the surface "wet" or you will burn the paint!
Just make sure the paint is hard, you say its fresh, has it been baked?
You want to be extra sure its totally hard or you will melt and smudge it to bits
#11
A lot of painters will get a bit of shit sat on the laquer sometimes its allways the case spose depends on if you own an immaculate booth or just a shed lol.
A clean wet flat with 1500 and soapy water will take the tops off then mop up to shine
A clean wet flat with 1500 and soapy water will take the tops off then mop up to shine
#12
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on blow ins i use gipgloss laquer,loads of smart repairers are using it as it fades out the best i have ever seen,you don't even need to mop it just a nice carefull flat with cheap soap to keep it moving and when the dull shine has gone to leave a grey flat appearance in the laquer i use t cut or any old polish/cut compound and it comes up sparkling.
from the above pic it looks like when the gun shoots a bit of heavy paint out,i sometimes have had it with water when i don't do the water trap on the compressor.
from the above pic it looks like when the gun shoots a bit of heavy paint out,i sometimes have had it with water when i don't do the water trap on the compressor.
#13
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smudgerz im in west midlands buddy.
how long untill i could fit these to car guys ?
as i think they were only finished being sprayed 2 days ago.
i heard you need to give paint time to dry underneith lauquer, got them in my spare bedroom at the mo and they do still stink lol
how long untill i could fit these to car guys ?
as i think they were only finished being sprayed 2 days ago.
i heard you need to give paint time to dry underneith lauquer, got them in my spare bedroom at the mo and they do still stink lol
#15
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2 pac paint it no longer used as much as its all waterbased now and less toxic!!! If he got the paint from halfrauds i would think it could be cellulose?? if he has not baked it then i would not go anywhere near it with wet and dry or any kind of polish for 2 weeks at least untill it has cured. These moden day paints and cellulos are not as hard as a 2 pac paint
#16
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I think halfords is acrylic if i remember right as i was going to get them to mix some up for a me a while back.
Mirror what has been said but if it hasnt been baked how long ago was it painted?! shouldnt be a problem fitting it and if u dont have a tressle/stand to rest it on might be easier for u to flat and polish it on the car mate.
Might be worth finding out if the lacquer is high solids or medium and how many coats he put on so u know how much u have on there to play with, if it was just 1 coat of MS for example you wont wanna do anything about the peel just take off the head of the lump and polish. Hopefully its not 1k lacquer as thats piss thin!!
Best to use a rubber block aswell so its nice and flat when u do it.
Also halfords do a tool which is quite good, its a grinder/polishing mop and i think its only about £30 now!! I bought one years ago and did the job ok, not as good as a proper one but deff better than doing it by hand
2 pack basecoats arnt used as much but pretty much most places still use 2k laquer as waterbased still isnt as good, and i know we've had problems with some waterbased colours not covering properly so had to use solvent instead!!!
Plis primers etc are still 2k
Mirror what has been said but if it hasnt been baked how long ago was it painted?! shouldnt be a problem fitting it and if u dont have a tressle/stand to rest it on might be easier for u to flat and polish it on the car mate.
Might be worth finding out if the lacquer is high solids or medium and how many coats he put on so u know how much u have on there to play with, if it was just 1 coat of MS for example you wont wanna do anything about the peel just take off the head of the lump and polish. Hopefully its not 1k lacquer as thats piss thin!!
Best to use a rubber block aswell so its nice and flat when u do it.
Also halfords do a tool which is quite good, its a grinder/polishing mop and i think its only about £30 now!! I bought one years ago and did the job ok, not as good as a proper one but deff better than doing it by hand
2 pack basecoats arnt used as much but pretty much most places still use 2k laquer as waterbased still isnt as good, and i know we've had problems with some waterbased colours not covering properly so had to use solvent instead!!!
Plis primers etc are still 2k
Last edited by Toe Knee; 06-04-2009 at 12:47 PM.
#17
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look...
i painted a bumper 2 days ago with high build primer,then basecoat,then gipgloss laquer to blow the lot in.
2 hrs later i was touching it and putting the bumper on,i admit i was carefull and not grabbing it hard but it was dry to the touch.
this 2 week bollocks is rubbish imo,i then wet flatted the next day and polished and looks great to me
i painted a bumper 2 days ago with high build primer,then basecoat,then gipgloss laquer to blow the lot in.
2 hrs later i was touching it and putting the bumper on,i admit i was carefull and not grabbing it hard but it was dry to the touch.
this 2 week bollocks is rubbish imo,i then wet flatted the next day and polished and looks great to me
#23
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glenny matey boy
i got a decent sized machine mart compressor for chrimbo of me ma and pa,i also got a binks bullows spray gun which is a good make imo, the stuff machine mart throw in with a deal ain't all that really imo.
i then started on panels on cars and vans and taught meself witha copy of practical classics. i had already done bmx's and bits and bobs say bumpers and wing mirrors on cars but with me binks i was wafting like a good un and i honestly amazed myself how good i was
theres far too much too mention on how it works but doing little bita and bats gets you started into the big time and then theres no looking back.
the biggest thing i have resprayed is a long wheel base transit semi high top and thats some painting i can tell yer
#24
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look...
i painted a bumper 2 days ago with high build primer,then basecoat,then gipgloss laquer to blow the lot in.
2 hrs later i was touching it and putting the bumper on,i admit i was carefull and not grabbing it hard but it was dry to the touch.
this 2 week bollocks is rubbish imo,i then wet flatted the next day and polished and looks great to me
i painted a bumper 2 days ago with high build primer,then basecoat,then gipgloss laquer to blow the lot in.
2 hrs later i was touching it and putting the bumper on,i admit i was carefull and not grabbing it hard but it was dry to the touch.
this 2 week bollocks is rubbish imo,i then wet flatted the next day and polished and looks great to me
The paint needs time to "lay" and also breath so it can let out all the solvents which are in celly thiners and 2pac hardner agents.
Also for it to totally harden, the science behind 2pack paint is quite complicated and it does need heat/time to strengthen/harden properly.
Theres nothing wrong with touching of buffing it early, but if your after a spotless finish then its not the done thing!
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#27
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Its not total bollocks and you should definealt not polish in the 1st week to get good results.
The paint needs time to "lay" and also breath so it can let out all the solvents which are in celly thiners and 2pac hardner agents.
Also for it to totally harden, the science behind 2pack paint is quite complicated and it does need heat/time to strengthen/harden properly.
Theres nothing wrong with touching of buffing it early, but if your after a spotless finish then its not the done thing!
The paint needs time to "lay" and also breath so it can let out all the solvents which are in celly thiners and 2pac hardner agents.
Also for it to totally harden, the science behind 2pack paint is quite complicated and it does need heat/time to strengthen/harden properly.
Theres nothing wrong with touching of buffing it early, but if your after a spotless finish then its not the done thing!
i have never seen any of the body shops i use wait 2 weeks to finish off paint to get a proper finish.
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i'd be carefull wet & drying them lumps out, because they are high spots flatting them out will cut straight through the lacqure, they look like what happens when you dont clean your spraygun properly
#30
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again who said to leave it 2 weeks to finish it off?!
most decent bodyshops have a bake oven thou so no panels dont usually get left to dry for long hence most places get the panels done painted and polished if need be in a short amount of time...........
Doesnt matter how u do it lee is right lacquer if not baked does take quite a while to cure properly hence using heat to dry it shortens the curing time.
Thats not 2 say it doesnt dry before then and no1 is saying u cant polish it but theres a big difference between paint drying and curing properly
u got any pics from further back?! gotta agree with kevin does look a bit crappy from close up!!
most decent bodyshops have a bake oven thou so no panels dont usually get left to dry for long hence most places get the panels done painted and polished if need be in a short amount of time...........
Doesnt matter how u do it lee is right lacquer if not baked does take quite a while to cure properly hence using heat to dry it shortens the curing time.
Thats not 2 say it doesnt dry before then and no1 is saying u cant polish it but theres a big difference between paint drying and curing properly
u got any pics from further back?! gotta agree with kevin does look a bit crappy from close up!!
Last edited by Toe Knee; 06-04-2009 at 11:21 PM.
#31
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sorry lee but its my opinion and its the opinion of 3 blokes i know who paint for a living, i have helped my mate who owns a bodyshop paint panels and then put the heat lamp on the panels for about a hr in the winter,in the summer during the day just left or chucked outside if nice. then about 3 hrs later we have been polishing them, this is for volume car dealers who retail cars off proper forecourts and cars won't sell if the paint finish is wank and dealers won't pay up for that matter.
i have never seen any of the body shops i use wait 2 weeks to finish off paint to get a proper finish.
i have never seen any of the body shops i use wait 2 weeks to finish off paint to get a proper finish.
When I did the Aston Martin the 2 sprayers help it hostage and wouldnt let me pick it up for 2 weeks untill they buffed it.
Before the restoration
Ive got over selling my 1968 mk1 mexico rep but why oh why did i ever sell my Series 1 RSturbo and the 1949 beetle, why why why
During
last year
After
(apparantly they have told me you get a better shine if sun dried, due the the curing process being more gradual than the booth)
#32
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If you can hang on for a couple of weeks (im on me holidays!) bring it to mine i will show you how to do it. Got all the stuff you will need, used to work as the tech rep for Farecla (they make G3)
Smudge
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Lee, there's a massive difference doing a resto or high volume jobs. I have worked at Aston Martin and they painted the shells, baked, and let cool, then polish straight away.
Within the body shop trade, everyone does things slightly different, if it works for you, its the right way!
Smudge
Within the body shop trade, everyone does things slightly different, if it works for you, its the right way!
Smudge
#34
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Lee, there's a massive difference doing a resto or high volume jobs. I have worked at Aston Martin and they painted the shells, baked, and let cool, then polish straight away.
Within the body shop trade, everyone does things slightly different, if it works for you, its the right way!
Smudge
Within the body shop trade, everyone does things slightly different, if it works for you, its the right way!
Smudge
Oh im not dissagreeing with anyone.
Its just that they guy asked for advise to get the best finish.
and in my opinion i was just making sure the panel was COMPLETLY cured before he touched it.
Remember hes not a high production/turnaround business
Only point i really wanted to make was that if he can afford to leave it/or it has been at least a week then he may benifit slightly.
Especially if hes gna wax and then polish it. hence sealing in the solvents before they have a chance to evaporate.
Other than that who really cares
Ive really overdosed on resprays having done about 10 in the last few years. so much so that i cant even be bothered to do my Rs1600i in restoring at the mo going for that "rat look"
#37
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you bugger was hoping u didnt find 1
2 weeks is a bit excessive even to let it air dry wont argue there, end of the day thou different products dry/cure at different rates etc end of the day u can get fast, normal or slow hardners etc etc.
Think were all gonna have to agree to dissagree
2 weeks is a bit excessive even to let it air dry wont argue there, end of the day thou different products dry/cure at different rates etc end of the day u can get fast, normal or slow hardners etc etc.
Think were all gonna have to agree to dissagree
#38
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its good talking about paint work instead of another boring polish thread or mechanicals or mapping etc.
fook mapping get mopping i say, i'll have a look when i have got time to see if i can find any decent pages with instructions on how to grasp the basics of how to paint properly.
i'm now off to do some more bodywork
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