smoky cossie
#1
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3,216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
smoky cossie
Hi all
Have been driving the cossie to and from places where it is having cosmetic stuff done and it is a bit smoky on idle. It doesnt seem to be smoky on boost although its a little hard to concentrate on that!
It doesnt use any oil but does drink a lot of fuel even on sedate driving. Does anyone have any ideas as to what it might be and maybe tell me how to fix it please?
The smoke is greyish not blue.
Car is a stage 1 cossie with 80,000 on the clock.
Would the fuel mixture screw make any difference and if so any advice please?
Thanks in advance
Have been driving the cossie to and from places where it is having cosmetic stuff done and it is a bit smoky on idle. It doesnt seem to be smoky on boost although its a little hard to concentrate on that!
It doesnt use any oil but does drink a lot of fuel even on sedate driving. Does anyone have any ideas as to what it might be and maybe tell me how to fix it please?
The smoke is greyish not blue.
Car is a stage 1 cossie with 80,000 on the clock.
Would the fuel mixture screw make any difference and if so any advice please?
Thanks in advance
#4
BANNED
BANNED
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 12,483
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds possibly like the coolant temperature sensor is faulty.
This is VERY common on cossies. (and quite cheap to fix £25 ish )
This is easy to test by measuring the resistance at the ecu connector
with a DIGITAL multimeter (ECU disconnected) between pins 11 and 29.
You should see the following resistances....
Engine HOT 80-85 deg C: 300 to 400 ohms (0.3 to 0.4 k ohms)
Engine COLD 15-20 Deg C: 3500 to 4000 ohms (3.5 to 4.0 k ohms)
If its open circuit or out of range, then the ECU dumbly just dumps fuel
for an incorrectly measured temperature.
Adjustment of the idle screw will make NO difference under fault conditions.
This is VERY common on cossies. (and quite cheap to fix £25 ish )
This is easy to test by measuring the resistance at the ecu connector
with a DIGITAL multimeter (ECU disconnected) between pins 11 and 29.
You should see the following resistances....
Engine HOT 80-85 deg C: 300 to 400 ohms (0.3 to 0.4 k ohms)
Engine COLD 15-20 Deg C: 3500 to 4000 ohms (3.5 to 4.0 k ohms)
If its open circuit or out of range, then the ECU dumbly just dumps fuel
for an incorrectly measured temperature.
Adjustment of the idle screw will make NO difference under fault conditions.
#6
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3,216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SECS - Thanks for the reply, definately worth a shot. It idles like a dog still and I have changed the ICV so could this possible cure this as well? If so any ideas where I can purchase one please with credit card facilities?
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
#7
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post