Patto

Whats the best way or products to use to remove slight scratches and swirl marks? car is black base coat and clear, we have a clarke polisher using foam pads with G3 - G10 also have a meguirs G220 although not used this yet.

this is the first time its been polished as its had a full paint job car has been sanded with 2000 wet n dry, after using the polisher and G3 then G10 then polished with autoglym there is still some very fine scratchs aswell as some swirl marks..

C4llyT

If not rock hard Megs will do it, rotary is quickest of course, but got to know what you're doing.
Would use Menzerna, much better polish.

Patto

the clear has been on some time now so i would say its pretty hard.

C4llyT

I didn't mean in that way, for example Jap cars are soft, Vag are hard as fuck.
Either way rotary is quickest.
3 passes with the Megs on 2 vag cars I've tried with harshest polish hasn't touched them really.
Hardness does vary depending what product has been used.

burnzy

well this is the shine i got from my esco with dull and pink paint with a bit of pressure on the polisher and just some original tcut, i did put a lot of effort into it, i think this was the second application i gave it and it came out like this, there is also something a bit more course like a pre tcut but i can't remem it off by heart i'll have to have a mooch, it's just time and keep at it to get all the swirls and fine scratches out though, it's why i hate paint work, and black is the biggest pain in the arse but will look the bollocks once finished

C4llyT

T-cut huh
There's proper stuff available, and shouldn't use it on modern cars anyway.
Won't achieve any defect removal either.
Ok for what you wanted, a bit of a clean and shine up.

Proper defect removal:

Patto

paint used was lechler same as laquer hardner was lechler mega lach...

burnzy

well there might be some other stuff out there but i wouldn't say a bit of a clean up and a shine this is how it started out it was in a right mess

i don't think it has done a bad job to be honest and it always gets complimented on how clean the paintwork is

C4llyT

Not sure how that relates, but with decent polish (Menzerna for example) and a rotary, can't go wrong - unless you don't know what you're doing and burn through the clearcoat
How competent on a rotary are you?
If not, any idiot can use a DA, as you know they don't create the heat, and just stop iff too much pressure applied; rotary is basically an angle grinder.

C4llyT

It will come up good as you're just removing fucked paint and revealing effectively new paint mate.

Don't want to insult you or anything, done a good job, but won't find many (zero) detailers using t-cut.
On an old faded solid paint car fair enough, otherwise bin the crap, things move on, and so has paint.

Patto

there is about 5-6 good coats of clear on it like i said were cutting with G-3 then onto G10 think some of the marks are from rubing down the clear and some are swirl marks were not profesional by any means but far from being stoopid lol, just looking for some advice on the best way to go about it is there something for use after G10 as this is a very fine compound what stage would be next and i see from aove you dont rate T-cut lol

burnzy

ok fair enough i don't like to teach mother goose how to suck egg's so to speak, and considering i'm going to respray mine once i have a few thing's sorted out i suppose i'll be looking into something else to use then, well whilst i have your attention, would a good 2 pack paint be ok to tidy the top up, i've just heard that a good 2 pack doesn't need a laquer will it have enough of a shine or will i be best to laquer it aswell, i wont change the colour just want it to look like new again once i have a few scab's tidied up and that arch sorted out

Patto

you dont use clear coat on solid 2k paint only base coat and clear mate so aslong as you buy a soilid colour youll be fine

burnzy

ok that is like glass i'd be quite happy with that

C4llyT

Patto - Megs, plenty of time, and G3 followed by G10 (think it's that way round never used the stuff lol).
Should be vids on youtube or megs website, will take a lot of time, just take your time do a small section at a time.
Could use 2000 or 3000 unigrit first, if you've sanding marks megs will struggle so get as smooth as possible first.

Bubbles - If lucky might not need respray, cutting rough paint and revealing 'new' paint can achieve great fresh results, beauty of solid paint.
Solid paint can shine well if prepped well, and correct wax/sealant used; as with t-cut, there's ok products out there, and there's great products, internet finds you the latter.

burnzy

ok so no laquer will be fine, and well it'll be staying as ford radiant red so i'm not going metalic or anything, cheer's for that though i'll leave your post alone now

C4llyT

Most cars are like this:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...urrent=Z33.jpg

The right light/angle in sun/petrol station lights, show you this!

Patto

no worries mate your welcome to stay lol

Cally- by megs do you mean meguirs if so what product sorry to be a pain lol

C4llyT

Megs g220, dual action polisher you've got right?
Not sure what you're asking!
Sounds like you've got most of what you need, lots of patience and time too and you're away!

burnzy

well it's fading still with the light and can tell it's starting to get a bit thin doesn't the new reds they brought out stop the fading because they have sorted the pigment out, and i would like to get it like new and hope it can stay like that with only a bit of effort not like now when it's a chore to keep it pristine, cheer's for the advice though, i think i've ate a bit of humble pie now esp after seeing them picci's of the paintwork i gather you have worked on

Patto

yeah im with you now sorry mate we have a 220 yes also a rotary clarke, i was meaning what compounds to use other than g10 or after g10 the when done compounding what polish to shine it..

C4llyT

Bubbles: If you don't look around the net, halfords etc stuff is all you're going to know, and use.
Wasn't long ago I only used polish, didn't see why you used wax
Quite a few polish every week, instead of wax lol.

Patto: Menzerna do 3 grades, fast cut, middle one (forget name lol) and final finish, can be had in small bottles.
Middle one leaves a nice finish (can wax straight from here), of course final finish even better.
Can wax seal, or use a prime/enhancing polish, so much choice about.
I can't see any difference in a lot of it lol.

So many choices for polish and wax, pic of mine was blackfire gloss enhancing polish then blackfire sealant, smells funky!

Colour dictates whether you use wax or sealant, I like victoria concours wax at moment, better stuff out there of course, but for the money hard to beat.

Think MikeC on here's the main man on detailing etc.

Patto

ok mate thanks for help ill see how i get on

burnzy

cheeky bastard! and it's not all halfrauds honest, a lot of it has been word of mouth, i was told about the fading at a college car paint workshop, i'm guessing from wot you have wrote your saying using a polish will stop the fading, and i'm just getting back into bodywork i'm picking it up again after i had a 5 year stint just on bikes and they where pretty easy to look after, now i'm back in car's again i'm feeling like i've started from scratch esp after talking to some of you lot

C4llyT

Not been cheeky, not meant to anyway?!
No polish polishes lol, cleans/removes, wax and sealant seal/protect, needed to prevent fading.
Like I said I thought you (as in one) polished or waxed

Think on www.e36coupe.com polished bliss still have their guides on it all, good reading, open your eyes a bit to what's what.

burnzy

lol it's ok honest i found it quite funny i have a good sense of humour and it doesn't bother me if it involves myself lol,

but to be honest i can't remember if i have put a proper polish or a wax on it i used just some standard crap shampoo/wax but no proper application, i worked on getting the pink out but never protected it , hmm! i've made a mistake there haven't i , then i dinged it so haven't been keeping up the hard work that's prob's why it's going back to it's old way's, but cheer's for the link i will have a read through it, and a bit of a swat up on the do's and dont's,

and i guess from my telling off i'll be looking on the web for my paint products, i'm into using auto glym at the moment but have noticed it takes a lot of effort to get a good clean shine from it, but cheer's you have deffo opened my eye's in the last few posts .

C4llyT

Yep get it protected mate!
Bet stuff you use leaves car dusty with white crap?
Decent stuff doesn't.
Then you want a german applicator pad, decent wax/sealant, microfibre cloth for removal, megs last touch to help with removal, slippery slope