starting a engine up after draining all the water out
08-12-2008, 06:09 PM
#1
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starting a engine up after draining all the water out
i was fitting a knock sensor, and took out the wrong bolt as i didnt have one a sensor to copy its position, which drain all the water out the block and head, as the header tank only fills the rad pipes i'm now worried about starting it up, from what i can work out will have no water in the engine untill the stat opens, by that time my engine will probly be bin material...
its an escort cosworh
any help?
its an escort cosworh
any help?
Last edited by dom123; 08-12-2008 at 06:15 PM.
08-12-2008, 06:11 PM
#2
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Takes minutes to cook with no water, not seconds from cold.
Fill it up, cap off, water pump goes straight away so should get circulating.
Once temp gauge is on it's way to normal should open thermostat and need some more.
Then a run and check when cold.
Don't worry, has some water in it isn't bone dry.
Fill it up, cap off, water pump goes straight away so should get circulating.
Once temp gauge is on it's way to normal should open thermostat and need some more.
Then a run and check when cold.
Don't worry, has some water in it isn't bone dry.
08-12-2008, 06:17 PM
#5
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i know what you mean but one of my header tank pipes goes to the turbo and the other the bottom metal pipe on the side of the rad, which is the wrong side of the stat.....none of which go direct to the engine if you know what i mean...
08-12-2008, 06:19 PM
#6
an escort cossie right ...
on the stat housing there is a 8mm bolt .. take this out and fill the header tank with water
squeeze the pipes to the rad and this will push water round the engine
keep topping up header tank whilst doing so !
when water is gushing out of the stat housing this means there is no air in the system
replace the 8mm bolt and job done
on the stat housing there is a 8mm bolt .. take this out and fill the header tank with water
squeeze the pipes to the rad and this will push water round the engine
keep topping up header tank whilst doing so !
when water is gushing out of the stat housing this means there is no air in the system
replace the 8mm bolt and job done
08-12-2008, 06:21 PM
#7
it will be fine, just fire it up, let it idle with the cap off untill the stat opens, with the nipple open, heater in hot posiition...
keep it topped up.
the block will fill up before its even mildly warm
keep it topped up.
the block will fill up before its even mildly warm
Last edited by JTECH James; 08-12-2008 at 06:22 PM.
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09-12-2008, 04:40 PM
#12
having the heater on hot when the engine is running also allows the engine to run for a bit longer before the fans are needed to cut in, thus giving more time for the air to bleed out.so you know there is full circulation.
and it also gives the layman an indication of when the stat has opened.
also, i do the same method for all cars, so i always follow the same procedure
20k years.....mmm, how old are some cossies then? lots of modern cars still have matrix taps fitted
.
and it also gives the layman an indication of when the stat has opened.
also, i do the same method for all cars, so i always follow the same procedure
20k years.....mmm, how old are some cossies then? lots of modern cars still have matrix taps fitted
.
09-12-2008, 05:44 PM
#13
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Dunno, wasn't a qualified remark, just in the last 12 years of working on cars not needed to do it.
Having the heaters on the fans will never come on in my experience, so will give you quite a bit longer
Having the heaters on the fans will never come on in my experience, so will give you quite a bit longer
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