Cossie abs not working...TYPICAL!
#1
Cossie abs not working...TYPICAL!
ok i have a 2wd saph cosworth and the abs isnt workin so she failed mot for it. but im not sure what it is.
the brakes work fine when normal driving but the light is on. the only time it afects me is when you are slowin down to a say a junction and when you hit about 10mph the abs kicks the pedal back as if she is skidding! but when she gets to about 3mph she fixes herself again and it does it eveytime! havent really looked at as it wasnt a problem cause i ran the car without the abs pluged in but now for mot it has to work so i need it fixed!
also when stoped on street and the light is off. if you stamp on the pedal the abs light comes on aswell as the hand brake light! but goes off as soon as it flashes!??
any help at all will be very much appricated!
thanks
matty
the brakes work fine when normal driving but the light is on. the only time it afects me is when you are slowin down to a say a junction and when you hit about 10mph the abs kicks the pedal back as if she is skidding! but when she gets to about 3mph she fixes herself again and it does it eveytime! havent really looked at as it wasnt a problem cause i ran the car without the abs pluged in but now for mot it has to work so i need it fixed!
also when stoped on street and the light is off. if you stamp on the pedal the abs light comes on aswell as the hand brake light! but goes off as soon as it flashes!??
any help at all will be very much appricated!
thanks
matty
#3
you ran it with the abs unplugged ? i get mithered if the light comes on on mine,which it does sometimes.my mate had the arse end lock up on him in his whilst the light was on so i don't think i would be tempted to run it unplugged.has it not caused you any problems ??
#4
I would also check the sensors and clean the rings.
The abs warning light comes on to indicate either a partial or full malfaunction of the abs circuit though you still have full assistance.
tabetha
The abs warning light comes on to indicate either a partial or full malfaunction of the abs circuit though you still have full assistance.
tabetha
#6
The car does NOT need ABS working to pass the MOT.
As long as the warning light works is all it needs.
ie if when you switch your ignition on it the warning light lights for 5 secs or whatever time it is meant to (there are official times from the manufacturer that they can test to) and then goes out, that means the warning circuit is ok and that is all they test.
Got caught on one of mine years ago lol, stripped all my clocks out to get to the warning lamps cos they was on all the time, unplugged them and thought I was being clever lol, MOT man failed it and explained the above to me, so all I did was plug em back in and took it back and it passed .
Steve
As long as the warning light works is all it needs.
ie if when you switch your ignition on it the warning light lights for 5 secs or whatever time it is meant to (there are official times from the manufacturer that they can test to) and then goes out, that means the warning circuit is ok and that is all they test.
Got caught on one of mine years ago lol, stripped all my clocks out to get to the warning lamps cos they was on all the time, unplugged them and thought I was being clever lol, MOT man failed it and explained the above to me, so all I did was plug em back in and took it back and it passed .
Steve
#7
Or you could fix it and actually have ABS like you paid for
It sounds like you have two problems there, not just one.
The false detection of a lock indicates some problem with a wheel sensor. You need to check them for resistance at the very least. The ABS system compares the rate of deceleration between 3 channels (two front, one rear) and releases the caliper of the locking wheel(s), and reapplies pressure.
The red light coming on when you stamp on the pedal indicates some sort of hydraulic pressure issue, which could be an airlock, low fluid level or a faulty pressure/level switch. We'll fix it
Put a switch in one of the lines for the 2 pin level switch - that'll turn it off and on whenever you want.
It sounds like you have two problems there, not just one.
The false detection of a lock indicates some problem with a wheel sensor. You need to check them for resistance at the very least. The ABS system compares the rate of deceleration between 3 channels (two front, one rear) and releases the caliper of the locking wheel(s), and reapplies pressure.
The red light coming on when you stamp on the pedal indicates some sort of hydraulic pressure issue, which could be an airlock, low fluid level or a faulty pressure/level switch. We'll fix it
Put a switch in one of the lines for the 2 pin level switch - that'll turn it off and on whenever you want.
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#8
When the light comes on....
Drop the ABS loom bracket down and bridge the two main pins (from the back) of the brown relay while the relay is still in the holder, this will cause the pump to come on and stay on untill you remove the piece of wire you bridged it with.
Does the light then go off while bridged?
Drop the ABS loom bracket down and bridge the two main pins (from the back) of the brown relay while the relay is still in the holder, this will cause the pump to come on and stay on untill you remove the piece of wire you bridged it with.
Does the light then go off while bridged?
#9
When the light comes on....
Drop the ABS loom bracket down and bridge the two main pins (from the back) of the brown relay while the relay is still in the holder, this will cause the pump to come on and stay on untill you remove the piece of wire you bridged it with.
Does the light then go off while bridged?
Drop the ABS loom bracket down and bridge the two main pins (from the back) of the brown relay while the relay is still in the holder, this will cause the pump to come on and stay on untill you remove the piece of wire you bridged it with.
Does the light then go off while bridged?
Last edited by cozmeister; 08-10-2008 at 11:49 AM.
#10
Charlie
#11
Depends if you want to keep the hydraulic assistance, as I'd personally have that over a standard servo any day. It should be straight forward to strip the loom, valve block and swap to a 'manual' servo.
#12
thanks for the tons of replys!! i must get a wee look tomorrow at cleaning the senors etc. and i have had no problems running her with the abs off! just have to be carefull cause the 6pots in the wet like to lock up lol
#13
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I had thios it was one of the fuses in the passenger footwell had cracked, the fuse looked fine, replaced both and all was good.
Its a scary feeling when that pedel pushes back then seems to go hard and brakes always seem to bite at different points
Its a scary feeling when that pedel pushes back then seems to go hard and brakes always seem to bite at different points
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