Right,i need to get a new crossover to seperate the freq. on my component speaker set up. Currently have 2x8" subs,2x4" mids and 2x2" tweeters powered from a 2 channel 150w amp. They have crossovers currently fitted onto the speaker terminals,primitive i know,but i've managed to destroy one of them.
So i thought i'd buy a new one as they are quite cheap,but all the ones i've found seem to run PRE amp,which means i'd need another 2 amps to run all 6 speakers instead of just 1 amp.
Anyone know what i can use??!

 

all the crossovers are on the speakers are capacitors

just slap in the same size cap

 

Got no markings on them to state size!

 

Any ideas??

 

with 1 amp no

u shouldnt be powering al lthat off one amp matey

 

The speakers were bought as a component set,designed to be ran off 1 amp. Been fine for 8 years!! I just happened to wreck one of the "crossovers" the other week.

 

get a multimeter on the capacitor that works and measure the value.

 

Why not?

The component setup runs as one output, and the subs can be run mono, as long as the amp will see the resistance.

 

thats a lot of speakers to be running off of a 150w amp

i run a 600w for a pair of 12s and a 400w for the other speakers (6 normal + 6 tweeters) and even that struggles!

 

My tweeters were run off of an amp that was "rated" at 20W

 

rich, tweeters aint exactly the same as twin 12inch subs are they

 

just noticed they only 8inchers

teeny tiny jobbies

 

These were slightly "different".

 

Right,i have a "componenet set" as stated,which is designed to run as a set,running off a 2 channel 150w amp,thats 75w per channel,quite enough when the subs are rated at 100w max!
As well as that i've got a 12" twin coil sub which runs off it's own 300w amp(running in mono),massages your back nicely when you're in the back!
Any further thoughts on my crossover issue?

 

you wont find too many passive crossovers that have 3 channels on them these days the best answer has allready been given in saying replace the resistor .
failing that your only answer is to find either a new set of passives (different makes will all run different ratings and x over settings)

i will check thru some old stock i have kicking around in the loft but im pretty sure most are only 2 way , i seem to remember having a pair of old kenwood 3 chnls but i will have to check .

 

Sorry to drag this post on,but am i right in thinking that passives will do the job POST amp and an active does it PRE amp? If thats the case,can i use a 2 way passive,post amp,and use 1 way to feed the 2 subs,then the other way to feed the mid/tweeters,as the existing crossovers on the mids are OK?? Then rely on that to split the sound to the mids & tweeters?

 

yes passives go on your speaker wires , actives go on your rca's
im not sure quite how you mean in your explination ? but basicly unless you put the speaker wires directly into a passive, every time you connect another speaker (be it sub mid or tweeter) you will alter the impedance the amplifier see's .
if it was me i would probably find a small amp (50w) and power the mids +tweets with that using a passive , then use the 150w amp to power the 8"s . should give you more controll over the system and possibly help to make it louder + clearer.

 

If you're desperate to fix the exsisting crossover then drop me a PM mate - I know a bit of electronics and may be able to help you find the right capacitor

Neil.

 

Yes........................... the FLUX capacitor.

Sorry, I'm pissed

 

To get the best out of your speaker setup, you really should be running a seperat amp(s) for the 8" subs and one for the mids/tweeters.

As Brad said, your setup will show the amp a really bad impedance curve, this will mess with the sound in all sorts of ways. Also, your amp is underpowered for the 8" subs, seems odd I know, but your amp should always be rated higer than the sub your running, this allows for a nice clean signal instead of the distorted signal you get from pushing an underpowered amp too hard (that's what destroys a sub quickly).

Passive crossovers also mess with the sound a lot, you might think it sounds great, but stick in a bigger amp to drive the subs, and just run your mids and tweeters from the existing amp and it'll sound like a totally different system, much clearer and open, you'll get a lot more punch from the subs too. Bad impedance curves can totally change (for the worse usually) a systems sound.

 

Right here goes.....Its my everyday job so should be able to help. (Hope i don't get something wrong)

Passive Crossover - The full range signal is taken from the source (1 input), passed to the amplifer (via RCAs). The amplified signal is then passed to the crossover, where the signals are then split the signal up with respect to the speakers you are running into mulitple outputs, in your case 3. Therefore only use 1 amplifier. These are usually designed so they operate at 2 or 4 ohms when the load of the speakers are calcuated as 1 value.

Active Crossover - Usually seen before the amplifier stage. What happens is the same signal source us split into multiple pre-amplified signals. These signals are then sent to the amplifiers (i.e. if three signals are required, then three 2 channel amplifers are required). Much more expensive but a lot better sound. This then means that each individual speakers impedance needs to be know so as not to overload the amplifier.

Impedance - Speakers operate at different impedances depending on how speakers are produced. Please correct me if i'm wrong, but if you put speakers in a series circuit, i.e. 2 ohm speaker linked to another 2 ohm speaker to impedance doubles and therefore only pulls 4 ohms from the amplifier. If you put them in parallel circuit, then the impedance halfs, increasing the loading on the amplifier thus making it hotter.

What you also need to look at is teh power rating of the amps. All the quotes of 600W are bollox if its not an RMS value. RMS means this is a power at which you are more likely to see. The 600W means the amp might peak at that for about a millisecond. You ideally need to match the power to the speakers and its always better to have a little too much power, as that mean the speaker isn't drawing the power, more a case of supplying.

Right thats enough, i've even bored myself.

 

Jim, depends what you are looking for - 12" will go lower down, but 8" will be tighter and better controlled (less cone to keep hold of), giving you cleaner bass with more slap.
Someone should have told you already that size doesn't always matter

 

That's 100% correct

 

ta. did panic as i'm tired and couldn't remember which way round it was.

 

Some top advice chaps(as usual).
Cheers!