Air mass meter testing
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Been looking into that, but it's doing my head in...
Ross-tech is expensive, and cheaper stuff doesn't always work it seems.
Thought I could get a multimeter on it
Ross-tech is expensive, and cheaper stuff doesn't always work it seems.
Thought I could get a multimeter on it
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Whats wrong with the car? Symptoms etc etc?
Only asking cos ive just changed the Air mass meter on my Octavia 110 tdi, because of a flat spot at above 2800rpm. VAG-COM confirmed the diagnosis but everyone initially pointed to the air mass meter.
Quite common problem areas on VAG stuff it seems.
Only asking cos ive just changed the Air mass meter on my Octavia 110 tdi, because of a flat spot at above 2800rpm. VAG-COM confirmed the diagnosis but everyone initially pointed to the air mass meter.
Quite common problem areas on VAG stuff it seems.
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Matt - Doesn't seem to boost much, if at all, terribly slow.
I know it's a diesel, but a bit of a torque shove should be there.
Phenomenal mpg though lol.
Vroom - Kind offer, would be nice to buy one though, if you've any links?
I don't know where to start with it all, plug it into a laptop and car and run a program basically?![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
Nick - Top man
I know it's a diesel, but a bit of a torque shove should be there.
Phenomenal mpg though lol.
Vroom - Kind offer, would be nice to buy one though, if you've any links?
I don't know where to start with it all, plug it into a laptop and car and run a program basically?
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Nick - Top man
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as said by pm, check that the variable nozzle turbo mechanism is not seized
VAG-COM has a function that operates the 'solenoid' on it so you can test if it moves as it should
VAG-COM has a function that operates the 'solenoid' on it so you can test if it moves as it should
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I bought my cable off Ebay about 5 years ago, so no idea where to get one. And most of the VAG forums I use are very snobbish and will recommend getting the proper one.
VAG COM is easy to use. Its like you say. Plug cable in, run program, get someone to read the figures that know what they are looking at.
Seatcupra.net has a request area where you can ask if anyone has vag com locally and get them to do it for you.
VAG COM is easy to use. Its like you say. Plug cable in, run program, get someone to read the figures that know what they are looking at.
Seatcupra.net has a request area where you can ask if anyone has vag com locally and get them to do it for you.
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Nick - can't find how to do that!
The actuator rod I can move up freely enough.
All the air mass readings are correct.
Vroom - Yes indeed, must buy correct one...
The actuator rod I can move up freely enough.
All the air mass readings are correct.
Vroom - Yes indeed, must buy correct one...
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can't find how to do what? if you can move the 'actuator' freely through it's full travel, then the VNT is not seized. but what you don't know is if the vacuum is getting to that actuator. VAG-COM can be used to test the control valve to make sure that the actuator operates under the command of the ecu
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Well it moves upwards half inch ok.
Will have to dig into vag-com, or pop up and see my bmy specialist if he's got the diagnostics for it.
I think air mass meter or that N75 turbo pressure thing are faves from searching about.
Neighbour reckoned he had the samw when an air mass meter went on his audi.
That PM you sent me, one reading went -5, I presume would have been 5 if had connected the opposite?
Also, that's connecting to connector, not meter, so how does this test it?
Not good with electrics.... lol.
Thanks.
Will have to dig into vag-com, or pop up and see my bmy specialist if he's got the diagnostics for it.
I think air mass meter or that N75 turbo pressure thing are faves from searching about.
Neighbour reckoned he had the samw when an air mass meter went on his audi.
That PM you sent me, one reading went -5, I presume would have been 5 if had connected the opposite?
Also, that's connecting to connector, not meter, so how does this test it?
Not good with electrics.... lol.
Thanks.
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true, that does not test the meter itself. only the supply to it. i didn't read it before, just sent you the screenshot.
i am about to pm you another screenshot with the ecu pin out data and what you can measure there to test the MAF. but if you are not overly confident with electronics, perhaps you ought to have a local specialist on the case.
but there are many other faults that could cause a lack of power, so ideally you need an ODB diagnostic device to connect to the ECU to read the MAF when running and other things like accelerator pedal sensor etc
i am about to pm you another screenshot with the ecu pin out data and what you can measure there to test the MAF. but if you are not overly confident with electronics, perhaps you ought to have a local specialist on the case.
but there are many other faults that could cause a lack of power, so ideally you need an ODB diagnostic device to connect to the ECU to read the MAF when running and other things like accelerator pedal sensor etc
Last edited by foreigneRS; 11-06-2008 at 02:08 PM.
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If the car is down on power, then MAf is most likely. They usually get spluttery too.
My engine doesnt have an N75, but thats not to say yours definitely wont.
EGR Valve is another common one. Scoot of carb cleaner in it usually does the trick.
My engine doesnt have an N75, but thats not to say yours definitely wont.
EGR Valve is another common one. Scoot of carb cleaner in it usually does the trick.
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Nick - cheers for the PM, will have a proper look later...., making my head hurt ![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
Gave it a spin earlier with maf disconnected, no different at all, maybe a touch better - but you know how it is, if you didn't know it was unplugged it probably feel exactly the same...
Can get a new one for £30, so worth a punt, and at least a new item if it isn't the cure.
Vroom - hope so.
What year etc is yours?
This 110 engine was only in passats for a couple years, not 100% is has the N75, see what looks like one at front by rad, but all new to me!
Whereabouts is the EGR?
Remember my ecotec cav had one, more trouble than it was worth iirc.
Thanks guys, should be getting there - all the vw forums I've found are crap
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Gave it a spin earlier with maf disconnected, no different at all, maybe a touch better - but you know how it is, if you didn't know it was unplugged it probably feel exactly the same...
Can get a new one for £30, so worth a punt, and at least a new item if it isn't the cure.
Vroom - hope so.
What year etc is yours?
This 110 engine was only in passats for a couple years, not 100% is has the N75, see what looks like one at front by rad, but all new to me!
Whereabouts is the EGR?
Remember my ecotec cav had one, more trouble than it was worth iirc.
Thanks guys, should be getting there - all the vw forums I've found are crap
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[quote=vroomtshh;3350943]If the car is down on power, then MAf is most likely. They usually get spluttery too.
mine just went flat above 2800rpm, not a total loss of power like you get with a jammed VNT mechanism, just faded out like it was running out of steam.
It never spluttered though, and like yours it was mint on fuel!
mine just went flat above 2800rpm, not a total loss of power like you get with a jammed VNT mechanism, just faded out like it was running out of steam.
It never spluttered though, and like yours it was mint on fuel!
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sometime the MAF is gone but does not flag the management light - data logging is the best method i've found (VAG COM). Very common on VAG cars - I just keep them in stock now lol
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When I unplugged it had no engine light, didn't know they had one? ![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
If it's not this think the N75 Charge Pressure Control valve is next candidate, but finding it hard to get a price in the uk online!
It's flat at all engine speeds, like an sdi I imagine lol.
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If it's not this think the N75 Charge Pressure Control valve is next candidate, but finding it hard to get a price in the uk online!
It's flat at all engine speeds, like an sdi I imagine lol.
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Mine is the 160 engine so its slightly different anyway. If it is an N75 problem just do away with it. Plenty guides on the net to tell you how.
My MAF problems didnt actually make the car loose power, it was just spluttery. I ended up replacing it with a Merc one, which is suppose to help on some cars. On mine it made it like a rocket higher up the revs but witth huge lag and a massive hit of power (plus the CEL on all the time) so I went back to the standard one and it eventually cured it. Have you tried doing an ECU reset? You can do that without vag com and might be worth a try
My MAF problems didnt actually make the car loose power, it was just spluttery. I ended up replacing it with a Merc one, which is suppose to help on some cars. On mine it made it like a rocket higher up the revs but witth huge lag and a massive hit of power (plus the CEL on all the time) so I went back to the standard one and it eventually cured it. Have you tried doing an ECU reset? You can do that without vag com and might be worth a try
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Looking at that N75, and reading up on it, couldn't you replace it with a cheap MBC?
Only had a petrol turbo, new to diesels, but this is my thinking??
160, bit of torque then.....
Only had a petrol turbo, new to diesels, but this is my thinking??
160, bit of torque then.....
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I'll be honest though, the engine and brakes flatter the rest of the car in my case. If only Seat had put a bit of work into the suspension, it could be so much better.
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