Open front diff or lsd on a 4x4
20-04-2008, 07:41 PM
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Open front diff or lsd on a 4x4
After yet another great day of smashing transmition parts at pod, ive been thinking of removing my front atb diff and going back to an open diff to remove some of the tension on my drive train when launching .......what do people think will this help much
20-04-2008, 08:00 PM
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nope, still a shitty little 6.5" diff, go for a R&D 7" unit at the very least, I have a thinkwall 909 diff and am worried about breaking that..... Doug stirling cracked his thickwall casing in half 
... Launching a 4x4 cos with big power will mean spending 10k+ at least on the tranny...... or it's wreck and repair on the cheaper stuff, simple as. Good as the Mullet boxes are, the mainshaft will always be a problem as you have to work your upgrades into the original dimensions.
... Launching a 4x4 cos with big power will mean spending 10k+ at least on the tranny...... or it's wreck and repair on the cheaper stuff, simple as. Good as the Mullet boxes are, the mainshaft will always be a problem as you have to work your upgrades into the original dimensions.
20-04-2008, 08:12 PM
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nope, still a shitty little 6.5" diff, go for a R&D 7" unit at the very least, I have a thinkwall 909 diff and am worried about breaking that..... Doug stirling cracked his thickwall casing in half ... Launching a 4x4 cos with big power will mean spending 10k+ at least on the tranny...... or it's wreck and repair on the cheaper stuff, simple as. Good as the Mullet boxes are, the mainshaft will always be a problem as you have to work your upgrades into the original dimensions.
... Launching a 4x4 cos with big power will mean spending 10k+ at least on the tranny...... or it's wreck and repair on the cheaper stuff, simple as. Good as the Mullet boxes are, the mainshaft will always be a problem as you have to work your upgrades into the original dimensions.I have a thick wall front with an atb dont think i can go back to open as the casings have to be machined. I have the mullet box but it only has the gear kit not the shafts (which is why i came home on a bar) But i keep snapping drive shafts i think the diff is one of the big reasons due to the fact the atb locks so when one wheel finds grip it rips the other apart.
20-04-2008, 08:28 PM
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Wil - im guessing youve already looked into costs of the R and D front diff.
do you know the costs etc, and are you able to still use the standard driveshafts - i reffer mainly to the drivers side shaft.
both of my Diffs are currently ATB aswell.
do you know the costs etc, and are you able to still use the standard driveshafts - i reffer mainly to the drivers side shaft.
both of my Diffs are currently ATB aswell.
20-04-2008, 09:02 PM
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As i have said eralyer, keep the standard diffs, because of the way they work, they have the right amount of grip to get the gearbox to hold together, and it´s wery simple to get them to last
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20-04-2008, 09:42 PM
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I have a thick wall front with an atb dont think i can go back to open as the casings have to be machined. I have the mullet box but it only has the gear kit not the shafts (which is why i came home on a bar) But i keep snapping drive shafts i think the diff is one of the big reasons due to the fact the atb locks so when one wheel finds grip it rips the other apart.
if an ATB loses traction the wheel that is slipping then revieves all the power mate. hence why ATB's are really poor, as long as you can maintain equal drive they work, if not they are about as good as an open unit. the ATB never locks, is a pre-loaded torque biased unit.
21-04-2008, 09:54 AM
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