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Best road going spec based on a GT30

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Old 25-09-2007, 08:28 AM
  #81  
JjCoDeX75
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So how much maintenance does solid lifters need, and how hard are they to set up in the first place?

Also, Martin you state that it feels different up to 8k on solids. Would this be noticeable on a lesser spec such as mine? (32psi peak 28psi hold on std comp engine T34 0.63).

I only ask because I will be taking my engine out again at xmas time, and I thought about putting solid lifters in last time, and decided against at the last minute. Second chance city!

JJ
Old 25-09-2007, 08:31 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
don't forget that solid lifters will require maintenance as well to maintain valve clearances
It's an easy job to do and should not be a consideration.
Old 25-09-2007, 08:32 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by JjCoDeX75
So how much maintenance does solid lifters need, and how hard are they to set up in the first place?

Also, Martin you state that it feels different up to 8k on solids. Would this be noticeable on a lesser spec such as mine? (32psi peak 28psi hold on std comp engine T34 0.63).

I only ask because I will be taking my engine out again at xmas time, and I thought about putting solid lifters in last time, and decided against at the last minute. Second chance city!

JJ
In normal road use, reshim them every 20K should be adequete, you know when it needs doing as it gets noisey.

Not hard to do at all providing you bite the bullet and just buy a big bucket full of different size shims to swap about

Cams out job of course!


Wether you notice the difference a lot or not is largely about cam profile, the more aggressive the cam the more the hydrualics fail to follow it, so on your spec I personally wouldnt even consider solids TBH as I dont think they will benefit you enough.
Old 25-09-2007, 08:33 AM
  #84  
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i only know from bike engines that rev high and use solid lifters that the clearances have to be measured and shims correctly fitted at fairly regular intervals, but it all depends on material specs, cam profiles, spring rates, oil etc

although on my vfr750 the engine is so well built that it hasn't needed any adjustment in 50,000 miles
Old 25-09-2007, 08:35 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
i only know from bike engines that rev high and use solid lifters that the clearances have to be measured and shims correctly fitted at fairly regular intervals, but it all depends on material specs, cam profiles, spring rates, oil etc

although on my vfr750 the engine is so well built that it hasn't needed any adjustment in 50,000 miles

50,000 miles at 12,000rpm +

So imagine how long you can potentially get away with on 8Krpm, lol



honda specify 50K service interval on the ITR iirc
Old 25-09-2007, 08:36 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by martin-reyland
It's an easy job to do and should not be a consideration.
if it's not done you will not see the benefit of solid lifters when the clearances get too much, so it does need to be a consideration. but i agree that it is a simple job
Old 25-09-2007, 08:37 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
Originally Posted by martin-reyland
It's an easy job to do and should not be a consideration.
if it's not done you will not see the benefit of solid lifters when the clearances get too much, so it does need to be a consideration. but i agree that it is a simple job
By not a consideration I read that to mean that its so easy and needs doing so infrequently that given the massive maintaince schedule of the sort of engines its used on, that the extra little bit of maintaince is too small to be a consideration in wether you change to them or not.
Old 25-09-2007, 08:37 AM
  #88  
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Maintaining valve clearances would not be problem for me.

The outlay that Franco mentioned (£400-£600) would not put me off either if it were worth it on specifically on the type of build that I have mentioned.
Old 25-09-2007, 08:39 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by martin-reyland
Originally Posted by Chip-3Door
Solid lifters really arent that needed, you can see 8Krpm on the hydraulics.

For a budget build I wouldnt bother as its money that could be spent elsewhere.
Like you said if it's budget build then maybe not worth it but it is worth doing at the time of engine build rather than thinking about carrying out the conversion at a later date. So what I'm saying Mr Franco is if we are doing it let's do it NOW not after it's fitted into the car.
I will give you a call later Martin!
Old 25-09-2007, 08:43 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by rsnissan
Maintaining valve clearances would not be problem for me.

The outlay that Franco mentioned (£400-£600) would not put me off either if it were worth it on specifically on the type of build that I have mentioned.
Sorry Andy they are approximate, I obviously need to speak to Martin first.
Old 25-09-2007, 08:44 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by Yeti Racing
Originally Posted by rsnissan
Maintaining valve clearances would not be problem for me.

The outlay that Franco mentioned (£400-£600) would not put me off either if it were worth it on specifically on the type of build that I have mentioned.
Sorry Andy they are approximate, I obviously need to speak to Martin first.
Nice one Jay, dont forget that PM

how long till yours is all done now then??
Old 25-09-2007, 08:58 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Chip-3Door
Originally Posted by foreigneRS
Originally Posted by martin-reyland
It's an easy job to do and should not be a consideration.
if it's not done you will not see the benefit of solid lifters when the clearances get too much, so it does need to be a consideration. but i agree that it is a simple job
By not a consideration I read that to mean that its so easy and needs doing so infrequently that given the massive maintaince schedule of the sort of engines its used on, that the extra little bit of maintaince is too small to be a consideration in wether you change to them or not.
Chip read it right
Old 25-09-2007, 09:00 AM
  #93  
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Not rushing mate being honest, but want it finshed and mapped for the Ring trip at Easter!

Too much personal stuff happening at the moment (not bad stuff) so it'll get finished when I can spare it the time.

PM sent dude!
Old 25-09-2007, 11:25 AM
  #94  
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i sometimes wish i hadnt bought my T34.48 now. I really fancy going same route as Andy. Might get a GT30 now too. What manifold do you have to run? and can you use it on std internals, with std cams?
Old 25-09-2007, 11:57 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by boXXer
i sometimes wish i hadnt bought my T34.48 now. I really fancy going same route as Andy. Might get a GT30 now too. What manifold do you have to run? and can you use it on std internals, with std cams?

Standard cams will be "ok" but it would be worth putting in a BD12 or BD14 inlet really.

Head needs porting really

Std internals for the bottom end will be ok, but potentially can limit the torque compared to a reduced CR (although not if you go to mr shead it would seem )
Old 25-09-2007, 12:11 PM
  #96  
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thanks bud. what about manifold? can cossie ones be used?
Old 25-09-2007, 12:15 PM
  #97  
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Standard manifold on exhaust size is perfect.

on the inlet side the manifold is fine, but the elbow of the plenum can be restrictive and ideally would want a swedish plenum or similar.
Old 25-09-2007, 12:37 PM
  #98  
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Old 25-09-2007, 02:30 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Mark Shead
Originally Posted by RWD_cossie_wil
We do this topic every 6 months, all we ever get is Sheady going 8.1-15.1 , Rainbum going anything over 8.1 is a timebomb , and lots of from people, why even bother replying if you are not going to tell us what you are running?

Talk about secret squirrel

On a different tack, I will be running a CR Engineering T38 on my escort cos, looking for anything around 420BHP, but I was hoping for a nice fat midrange but I am a bit worried now . Engine will be 7.4:1 (cc'd) , with a std exhaust cam and a BD14 inlet, with mild headwork, having spoke to my tuner I have every confidence his prediction of not a lot more lag than a .48 T34 will be true, as the engine has been specced with this turbo in mind. If I don't like it I might be forced to try a GT30

I also have a GT35 sat under my bench, now a few people have swapped back to the GT30 from this, is the general opinion that a GT35 is a bit too big for a 2.0 YB to be nice to drive on the road?
I would easly run stock compression on that spec or above, I have a stock engine running a ported head maxing out 560cc injectors running 2.1bar boost and that version turbo works very well on it.

Mark
But is this possible on stock management, either L8, P8 or EEC IV? I am guessing that the management is the limiting factor here, but why?
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