200 blocks
24-09-2007, 10:53 PM
#42
ah the old chestnut!the 205 block has no real weakness over the 200 block when fitted in a 2wd if set up correctly no reason y a 205 block wont hold as much power in a 2wd!the reason the 200 block is stronger is too cope with the extra weight and stress of the 4x4 
25-09-2007, 01:14 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by rapidcossie
the turkey block have just seen a bit of sun before coming to rainy old britain...they are fine 
25-09-2007, 03:00 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by saffsta
Originally Posted by rapidcossie
the turkey block have just seen a bit of sun before coming to rainy old britain...they are fine
25-09-2007, 03:09 PM
#47
Originally Posted by mechanic28
ah the old chestnut!the 205 block has no real weakness over the 200 block when fitted in a 2wd if set up correctly no reason y a 205 block wont hold as much power in a 2wd!the reason the 200 block is stronger is too cope with the extra weight and stress of the 4x4
.
Originally Posted by SilverBullet
To quote norris motorsport i think that this answers the question
The 2.0 16v YBB engine has been around for sometime now and was available in several different forms as the years went by. (Designated, YBB, YBD, YBP, YBT, etc) There are certain cylinder heads that are preferable to use over others due to their increased stiffness and improved water ways, and NMS can advise the best route to follow. Likewise the earlier YBB engines used a "205" block derived from the 2.0 Pinto. This unit is capable of handling up to 350bhp but this is dependant on block casting quality (i.e. due to core shift) and bore size (i.e. the block is weakened by overboring). When I specify a 300+bhp engine I always advise the use of the later "200" block which incorporated additional reinforcement around the block sump face webs and block bore casting as well as some other minor block revisions.
The 2.0 16v YBB engine has been around for sometime now and was available in several different forms as the years went by. (Designated, YBB, YBD, YBP, YBT, etc) There are certain cylinder heads that are preferable to use over others due to their increased stiffness and improved water ways, and NMS can advise the best route to follow. Likewise the earlier YBB engines used a "205" block derived from the 2.0 Pinto. This unit is capable of handling up to 350bhp but this is dependant on block casting quality (i.e. due to core shift) and bore size (i.e. the block is weakened by overboring). When I specify a 300+bhp engine I always advise the use of the later "200" block which incorporated additional reinforcement around the block sump face webs and block bore casting as well as some other minor block revisions.
25-09-2007, 03:20 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Originally Posted by SilverBullet
My buisiness partner runs 400bhp on his saph with a 205 block with standard head bolts and its run like this for about 9 years and it was built by castle performance back in the day
.Well mine has been run @ 420 bhp for about few yrs and now 442 on a 205 block and it's ok, i don't track mine like Mike and others, BUT it does get abused when it's out, (AGAIN, NOT LIKE IF IT WERE TRACKED) and fingers crossed it HAS/IS fine..
the real test will be when i go for a GT30 Setup 
kiss of death me thinks.. but, we have to try these things.. 
26-09-2007, 02:51 PM
#49
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as I anticipated the new block that we bought have the funky 99 on the side. But as my mate is not running that huge power maybe won't break that sooooon!!!!!! T4, greys and bd 14s around 400bhp +
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09-10-2007, 07:03 PM
#52
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Well the cars which uses these types of gaskits make low 10s and I know two drag cars with cossie engines which make 7.6 - 8 sec all the time with these so I would say in the 700 bhp !!!!!
09-10-2007, 08:13 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by cossiedave
its a shame to waste a new 200 block with that stud and nut in as i heard they crack the blocks best of useing std head bolts if you cant get it long studed
09-10-2007, 08:20 PM
#58
Originally Posted by cossiemanden
Originally Posted by cossiedave
its a shame to waste a new 200 block with that stud and nut in as i heard they crack the blocks best of useing std head bolts if you cant get it long studed
09-10-2007, 08:24 PM
#59
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Originally Posted by cossiedave
Originally Posted by cossiemanden
Originally Posted by cossiedave
its a shame to waste a new 200 block with that stud and nut in as i heard they crack the blocks best of useing std head bolts if you cant get it long studed
That`s the eccact same problem with arp`s, and also that people tighten them with tools and not by hand, not because it`s just arp`s.
I have done 6 engine`s with arp`s now, NON of them have ever cracked
09-10-2007, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mechanic28
ah the old chestnut!the 205 block has no real weakness over the 200 block when fitted in a 2wd if set up correctly no reason y a 205 block wont hold as much power in a 2wd!the reason the 200 block is stronger is too cope with the extra weight and stress of the 4x4
09-10-2007, 08:25 PM
#61
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my rs500 block cracked with standard head bolts at 400bhp. Someone said a commen reason for the failure is head gasket failure then water leaking into the head bolt holes and cracking that way. Not sure on the truth of it but it sounds reasonabe
09-10-2007, 08:27 PM
#62
Originally Posted by cossiemanden
Originally Posted by cossiedave
Originally Posted by cossiemanden
Originally Posted by cossiedave
its a shame to waste a new 200 block with that stud and nut in as i heard they crack the blocks best of useing std head bolts if you cant get it long studed
That`s the eccact same problem with arp`s, and also that people tighten them with tools and not by hand, not because it`s just arp`s.
I have done 6 engine`s with arp`s now, NON of them have ever cracked
09-10-2007, 08:32 PM
#63
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When using arp you can acheive better strength then standard head bolts just becouse arp tighteen from top as it is a stud and the standard bolts will pull from the middle!!! We had no problem with arp's when running 30psi with a T4 turbonetics!!! The long stud conversion is even more better!!!
09-10-2007, 08:33 PM
#64
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Originally Posted by cossiedave
Originally Posted by cossiemanden
Originally Posted by cossiedave
Originally Posted by cossiemanden
Originally Posted by cossiedave
its a shame to waste a new 200 block with that stud and nut in as i heard they crack the blocks best of useing std head bolts if you cant get it long studed
That`s the eccact same problem with arp`s, and also that people tighten them with tools and not by hand, not because it`s just arp`s.
I have done 6 engine`s with arp`s now, NON of them have ever cracked
Show me the results on just one block that is cracked with a direct result of fitting arp`s?
09-10-2007, 08:38 PM
#66
Originally Posted by cossiemanden
Originally Posted by cossiedave
Originally Posted by cossiemanden
Originally Posted by cossiedave
Originally Posted by cossiemanden
Originally Posted by cossiedave
its a shame to waste a new 200 block with that stud and nut in as i heard they crack the blocks best of useing std head bolts if you cant get it long studed
That`s the eccact same problem with arp`s, and also that people tighten them with tools and not by hand, not because it`s just arp`s.
I have done 6 engine`s with arp`s now, NON of them have ever cracked
You are a funny guy
Show me the results on just one block that is cracked with a direct result of fitting arp`s?
09-10-2007, 08:42 PM
#68
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is this ponted at me m8 i do have a 200 block in the garage that is cracked that my m8 had arp,s inbut he tightend them down with 2 nuts on to 50nm
09-10-2007, 08:51 PM
#70
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cossiedave
Have i fuc its still in a box in the garage with the rest of the rebuild bits, the romans built an empire quicker than this cunt takes to build an engine
Have i fuc its still in a box in the garage with the rest of the rebuild bits, the romans built an empire quicker than this cunt takes to build an engine
09-10-2007, 08:55 PM
#71
Originally Posted by Alps Pacino
cossiedave
Have i fuc its still in a box in the garage with the rest of the rebuild bits, the romans built an empire quicker than this cunt takes to build an engine
Have i fuc its still in a box in the garage with the rest of the rebuild bits, the romans built an empire quicker than this cunt takes to build an engine
09-10-2007, 09:07 PM
#72
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What do you guys think about that type of gaskit? If anyone didn't noticed the ring comes apart the gaskit and a few mm sits in the block for maximum seal!!
09-10-2007, 09:09 PM
#73
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cossiedave
Tell me about it i think he feels that i dont need it in a rush as i work away. Anyway winters here now so the car would have been off the road anyway so its not all bad
Tell me about it i think he feels that i dont need it in a rush as i work away. Anyway winters here now so the car would have been off the road anyway so its not all bad
09-10-2007, 09:11 PM
#74
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Originally Posted by MalteseFalcon
What do you guys think about that type of gaskit? If anyone didn't noticed the ring comes apart the gaskit and a few mm sits in the block for maximum seal!!
09-10-2007, 09:12 PM
#75
Originally Posted by MalteseFalcon
What do you guys think about that type of gaskit? If anyone didn't noticed the ring comes apart the gaskit and a few mm sits in the block for maximum seal!!
09-10-2007, 09:17 PM
#76
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This is italian called Nava Linea. The rings in the middle comes apart from the gaskit and the few extra mm sits tight in the block. From the pic you can see the ring machined around the bore making room for the ring to sit then comes perfectly with the gaskit. The rings can be used more then one time so you can only change the rest of the gaskit when taking the head apart !
09-10-2007, 11:11 PM
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cant be arsed reading all this but i will say my last cossie was running/holding 30+psi for 12000 miles before i sold it, i built the engine round a 205 block and it was perfect, new owner stays in touch and its fine!
So maybe they dont snap in two on boost
So maybe they dont snap in two on boost