question for engine builders and plastigauge
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im just about to put my new forged crank in and new acl race bearings, when i picked it up today the guy i bought it from said he doesent use plastigauge if crank and bearings or new and or standard, but everyone else said they still use it, the question realy is if everything is new why should the tolerances be out ?
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andy
thanks
andy
#2
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because then you would be trusting your expensive engine build down to the machinist,, and he might of made it n a friday afternoon
never trust anyone, when it comes to your own money, it wont cost you much money to check,, so why not check?
never trust anyone, when it comes to your own money, it wont cost you much money to check,, so why not check?
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Originally Posted by GARETH T
because then you would be trusting your expensive engine build down to the machinist,, and he might of made it n a friday afternoon
never trust anyone, when it comes to your own money, it wont cost you much money to check,, so why not check?
never trust anyone, when it comes to your own money, it wont cost you much money to check,, so why not check?
thanks gareth, ive got the plastigauge cost just Ł11.00 for 10 sticks so will get it all checked in the morn, tolerances or
Standard value: 0.02 - 0.05 mm (0008 - .0020 in.)
Limit: 0.1 mm (004 in.)
thanks
andy
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NEVER take anyones word for it.
As much as I trust the company I use for maching they have made a mistake once or twice, or should I say not quite done what I asked for.
It could of been a very expensive mistake, although not as expensive as fooking up your forged crank
As much as I trust the company I use for maching they have made a mistake once or twice, or should I say not quite done what I asked for.
It could of been a very expensive mistake, although not as expensive as fooking up your forged crank
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Originally Posted by JonnyBravo
NEVER take anyones word for it.
As much as I trust the company I use for maching they have made a mistake once or twice, or should I say not quite done what I asked for.
It could of been a very expensive mistake, although not as expensive as fooking up your forged crank
As much as I trust the company I use for maching they have made a mistake once or twice, or should I say not quite done what I asked for.
It could of been a very expensive mistake, although not as expensive as fooking up your forged crank
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thanks
andy
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started things rolling this morn
![](https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/morto/DSCF1570.jpg)
![](https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/morto/DSCF1569.jpg)
![](https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/morto/DSCF1571.jpg)
![](https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/morto/DSCF1572.jpg)
![](https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/morto/DSCF1567.jpg)
just done the rods and all came out bang on the tolerences or in between
should be some engine when its finished with forged crank and evo 9 gt rs pistons and uprated metal head gasket plus ported td05 turbo
andy
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![](https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/morto/DSCF1567.jpg)
just done the rods and all came out bang on the tolerences or in between
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andy
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hi mate, im keeping the balancer shaft in as you only realy need to remove it if your going over 400bhp, im only looking at the standard 300 bhp at a bar of boost, the balancer shaft stops the engine vibrating at 3000rpm but i would rauther have a smoother engine
andy
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andy
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![Default](https://passionford.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by AlexF
why does bhp effect the need for a balancer shaft?
hi alex the silent shafts were only put in for our butt ! as said when you do take them out you will get vibration starting around 3000rpm, all good evo tunners will tell you that if you go over the 400 bhp mark you should take them out as theres a bigger chance of the belt that runs it breaking as being under alot more stress, this in turn bangs into your cambelt and bang no engine, but under normal bhp power and as long as you change the silent shaft belt with your timming belt all should be ok
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