L8/CAT AND CLOSED LOOP QUESTION.ANGUS AND STU
26-09-2004, 11:13 PM
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L8/CAT AND CLOSED LOOP QUESTION.ANGUS AND STU
right i have a mate out in OZ,its a 2wd sapp running a l6
to get it threw there emissions it has to run a cat
whats the best way of him doing this
whats the best ecu,level 8 i think he wants to use
hes only running standard injectors at the mo
and what else is needed
he can get the cat out there no probs
is this a conversion a bit like what gus runs stu?,bar he has all the parts already on the car i take it
and if i was to defo take mine,i surpose it would be better to have it converted here to save all the hassle
to get it threw there emissions it has to run a cat
whats the best way of him doing this
whats the best ecu,level 8 i think he wants to use
hes only running standard injectors at the mo
and what else is needed
he can get the cat out there no probs
is this a conversion a bit like what gus runs stu?,bar he has all the parts already on the car i take it
and if i was to defo take mine,i surpose it would be better to have it converted here to save all the hassle
27-09-2004, 12:52 AM
#2
Hi Pops,
Heres a quote from another post i did and finally a few links for you and your pal to look through that should give you some more in depth knowledge of tyhe subject. (Im just quoting and linking as im off to bed, so if you need to know more, please just ask and il sort it tomorrow
)
A Quote describing what it does and how:
Briefly... (Please let me know if its too brief)
The Map sensor DOES tell the ecu how much air the engine is using and where to look for fuel in the map. If the map says "open inj for 2ms" thats what it will do, even if that means lean runnning or borewash. The map based system does not change, but what will change is the fuel that is actually delivered. This is because a 4th dimension is used to process the delivery of fuel.
This 4th dimension is the lambda sensors input to the ecu to tell the ecu how much fuel is being used via exhaust gas monitoring. What this means in a nutshell is instead of the map sensor saying:
"We have 1psi add the fuel from the 1psi part of the map"
We now have an ecu that will add the fuel from the 1psi part of the map and then refine it constantly by looking at teh emissions, if its rich ir will reduce injector duration itself, its its lean it will increase injector duration, and it will do this constantly, ensuring the fuelling stays stoichiometrically correct. This constant monitoring and adjustment is called "Closed loop lambda control"
This system came into operation worldwide in 1992 with the introduction of catalysts to mainstream production cars. The catalyst requires the fuel mixture to be chemically correct at 14.7:1 AFR so it doesnt get poisoned and this is why the lambda sensor and closed loop operation was devised for household consumption. We have simply refined this system for use with far larger injectors than originally intended by Ford or Marelli and then retrofitted the system into cars that were never equipped with it.
Il copy and paste some of my operating instructions into here now that i give to customers after purchase of teh system so you understand when it is locked to closed loop operation:
The Evolution software in your ecu is closed loop lambda enabled for ideal stoichiometry under all level and light throttle conditions. If the following parameters are met or exceeded, the ecu will revert to conventional mapping at all times.
1) Rapid throttle movements.
2) Throttle angle above 60%
3) Overun conditions
4) Boost pressure above 4psi
5) Engine speed above 4000rpm
6) Coolant temperature below 70deg C.
At all other times the fuelling will be under complete lambda control for best emissions and fuel economy. Please bear this in mind to get the best from your new engine control software.
So as you can see above, once your running hard, you are under 100% conventional mapping techniques and control methods which has no bearing on the lambda control side of things at all.
All we have done in a nutshell is brought the old fashioned cosworth fuel system into line with more modern equivalents. Welcome to 2004 guys.
As for Costs.
Standard mapping cost for a YB is Ł500
Lambda software is Ł100 extra.
On top of this you need a decent quality lambda sensor installed to supply my software with your signal and the heater system wired into the fuel circuit. This can be done yourself or by us.
Closed loop boost control is a definate essay and il maybe do that later...
----------------------------------------------------
Some links to passionford topics about our new system:
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54573
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=814248
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58883
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=66604
Some fuel efficiency quotes from independant customers:
That is pretty fooking impressive!!
How many miles was it exactly on the way back BTW Rob?
217 miles Ian.
So i calculate that like this:
Ł26.80 buys you 30.112 litres of Shell Optimax fuel at 0.89p per litre.
That means you travelled an average of 7.206miles for every litre of fuel used.
Multiply that 7.206 miles x 4.546 (litres in a Uk gallon) and that gives us an accurate calculation of how far you travelled for every Uk gallon consumed:
32.76MPG overall
This is on a pretty damn un fuel efficient T4 / Greys / low comp / ported head/ BD14 engine too!
Even im shocked at that!!
Have i fooked up the calculation somewhere?
If your figures are right Ian thats 34.04 Mpg pal. Should make driving to the various shows around the country a bit more affordable eh mate? More cash left over for performance parts and women..
Be aware Pops that you should fit a catalyst big enough to deal with the horsepower you want to run and not just a std one as the std one will cause problems and be unreliable.
Happy Reading.
Heres a quote from another post i did and finally a few links for you and your pal to look through that should give you some more in depth knowledge of tyhe subject. (Im just quoting and linking as im off to bed, so if you need to know more, please just ask and il sort it tomorrow
) A Quote describing what it does and how:
Briefly... (Please let me know if its too brief)
The Map sensor DOES tell the ecu how much air the engine is using and where to look for fuel in the map. If the map says "open inj for 2ms" thats what it will do, even if that means lean runnning or borewash. The map based system does not change, but what will change is the fuel that is actually delivered. This is because a 4th dimension is used to process the delivery of fuel.
This 4th dimension is the lambda sensors input to the ecu to tell the ecu how much fuel is being used via exhaust gas monitoring. What this means in a nutshell is instead of the map sensor saying:
"We have 1psi add the fuel from the 1psi part of the map"
We now have an ecu that will add the fuel from the 1psi part of the map and then refine it constantly by looking at teh emissions, if its rich ir will reduce injector duration itself, its its lean it will increase injector duration, and it will do this constantly, ensuring the fuelling stays stoichiometrically correct. This constant monitoring and adjustment is called "Closed loop lambda control"
This system came into operation worldwide in 1992 with the introduction of catalysts to mainstream production cars. The catalyst requires the fuel mixture to be chemically correct at 14.7:1 AFR so it doesnt get poisoned and this is why the lambda sensor and closed loop operation was devised for household consumption. We have simply refined this system for use with far larger injectors than originally intended by Ford or Marelli and then retrofitted the system into cars that were never equipped with it.
Il copy and paste some of my operating instructions into here now that i give to customers after purchase of teh system so you understand when it is locked to closed loop operation:
The Evolution software in your ecu is closed loop lambda enabled for ideal stoichiometry under all level and light throttle conditions. If the following parameters are met or exceeded, the ecu will revert to conventional mapping at all times.
1) Rapid throttle movements.
2) Throttle angle above 60%
3) Overun conditions
4) Boost pressure above 4psi
5) Engine speed above 4000rpm
6) Coolant temperature below 70deg C.
At all other times the fuelling will be under complete lambda control for best emissions and fuel economy. Please bear this in mind to get the best from your new engine control software.
So as you can see above, once your running hard, you are under 100% conventional mapping techniques and control methods which has no bearing on the lambda control side of things at all.
All we have done in a nutshell is brought the old fashioned cosworth fuel system into line with more modern equivalents. Welcome to 2004 guys.
As for Costs.
Standard mapping cost for a YB is Ł500
Lambda software is Ł100 extra.
On top of this you need a decent quality lambda sensor installed to supply my software with your signal and the heater system wired into the fuel circuit. This can be done yourself or by us.
Closed loop boost control is a definate essay and il maybe do that later...
----------------------------------------------------
Some links to passionford topics about our new system:
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54573
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=814248
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58883
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=66604
Some fuel efficiency quotes from independant customers:
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by Ian2wdsaffcos
That is pretty fooking impressive!!
How many miles was it exactly on the way back BTW Rob?
So i calculate that like this:
Ł26.80 buys you 30.112 litres of Shell Optimax fuel at 0.89p per litre.
That means you travelled an average of 7.206miles for every litre of fuel used.
Multiply that 7.206 miles x 4.546 (litres in a Uk gallon) and that gives us an accurate calculation of how far you travelled for every Uk gallon consumed:
32.76MPG overall
This is on a pretty damn un fuel efficient T4 / Greys / low comp / ported head/ BD14 engine too!
Even im shocked at that!!
Have i fooked up the calculation somewhere?
Originally Posted by Rs Gus
i can also clarify this as been correct as i reguarlary get 30mpg out of my cos
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
ian m,
i checked mine at the weekend 318 miles and used 42.46 litres which i think is pretty damn good
i checked mine at the weekend 318 miles and used 42.46 litres which i think is pretty damn good
Originally Posted by RobS
another update, drove to nat day, quick drive around nott on sat night and back also running for 2hrs while queing to get in donny. 312 miles, used 52litres fuel, drove back raced a pug 106 gti
and didnt go under 90 all way home and it works out at
27.1 mpg
thats good with t4 & greys i think
and didnt go under 90 all way home and it works out at
27.1 mpg
thats good with t4 & greys i think
Be aware Pops that you should fit a catalyst big enough to deal with the horsepower you want to run and not just a std one as the std one will cause problems and be unreliable.
Happy Reading.
27-09-2004, 06:19 PM
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fook me,looks like i have some reading to do
its to get his car threw the austrailan complience test,the bloke who's sorting his car out there has said to him that running a cat and only on a L6 wont get his CO down low enough to get it threw the test.
so has told him he needs an L8
without reading all that stu ( which i will in a bit,as it seems intesting)what else would he need to run the L8.and could you sort out a chip to run it,as opposed to live mapping it.bit far for him to come
its to get his car threw the austrailan complience test,the bloke who's sorting his car out there has said to him that running a cat and only on a L6 wont get his CO down low enough to get it threw the test.
so has told him he needs an L8
without reading all that stu ( which i will in a bit,as it seems intesting)what else would he need to run the L8.and could you sort out a chip to run it,as opposed to live mapping it.bit far for him to come
27-09-2004, 06:23 PM
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Incidentally...the Collins chip i am using is really good compared to the "running in chip" on the 8 x greens engine i had which wouldnt lower for emmissions!!!
I know this is good because the ISCV actually does its job when cold and comes off with a certain temp and gives a lovely smooth tickover,if i unplug the ISCV it wont tickover!!!.....before it just started up even with ISCV disconnected and ticked over!
So i guess this Collins greys chip is much lower CO...but she still said i wont go below 6%!!! Can also say the fuel consumption is better!
I know this is good because the ISCV actually does its job when cold and comes off with a certain temp and gives a lovely smooth tickover,if i unplug the ISCV it wont tickover!!!.....before it just started up even with ISCV disconnected and ticked over!
So i guess this Collins greys chip is much lower CO...but she still said i wont go below 6%!!! Can also say the fuel consumption is better!
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27-09-2004, 06:29 PM
#8
Originally Posted by popeye
fook me,looks like i have some reading to do
its to get his car threw the austrailan complience test,the bloke who's sorting his car out there has said to him that running a cat and only on a L6 wont get his CO down low enough to get it threw the test.
so has told him he needs an L8
without reading all that stu ( which i will in a bit,as it seems intesting)what else would he need to run the L8.and could you sort out a chip to run it,as opposed to live mapping it.bit far for him to come
its to get his car threw the austrailan complience test,the bloke who's sorting his car out there has said to him that running a cat and only on a L6 wont get his CO down low enough to get it threw the test.
so has told him he needs an L8
without reading all that stu ( which i will in a bit,as it seems intesting)what else would he need to run the L8.and could you sort out a chip to run it,as opposed to live mapping it.bit far for him to come
Laters sexy
27-09-2004, 06:48 PM
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hes only running yellows at the mo stu,and as far as i know,he would only ever go to greens.so that sounds cool
will take a good look at the links in a bit,after all the fighting stops
will take a good look at the links in a bit,after all the fighting stops
27-09-2004, 06:54 PM
#11
Pops
if the car has gone over as a personal import then it would not need to meet australian emmision regs just ones similar to our basic pre 1992 mot standards. If the car is set up normally then it should fly through these unless the car has been modified or not set up properly - I doubt an L8 and cat will solve a poor set up - he might need to just get it timed up properly, a new set of plugs and a twiddle with the ecu screw.
If it has gone over as a grey import then thats a different matter, and the car will need to be post 92 green top spec including carbon cannistors for fuel tank vapour etc
if the car has gone over as a personal import then it would not need to meet australian emmision regs just ones similar to our basic pre 1992 mot standards. If the car is set up normally then it should fly through these unless the car has been modified or not set up properly - I doubt an L8 and cat will solve a poor set up - he might need to just get it timed up properly, a new set of plugs and a twiddle with the ecu screw.
If it has gone over as a grey import then thats a different matter, and the car will need to be post 92 green top spec including carbon cannistors for fuel tank vapour etc
27-09-2004, 11:00 PM
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Cheers for all the help guys and for the post Pops!
Y2K RS - The car isnt a personal import hence the reason for the post. Thanks for the thought though. You are right if it is a personal import it doesnt need to comply emissions wise so Pops you probably wont need any info from this post.
Paul if you are reading this, put a post up mate as it makes more sense to you than me!
Y2K RS - The car isnt a personal import hence the reason for the post. Thanks for the thought though. You are right if it is a personal import it doesnt need to comply emissions wise so Pops you probably wont need any info from this post.
Paul if you are reading this, put a post up mate as it makes more sense to you than me!
27-09-2004, 11:17 PM
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alan,i didnt pick up on that you didnt do yours as a personal importwhat was the reasoning on that then?
and whats the difference in a personal import and whatever way you did it
27-09-2004, 11:27 PM
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Pops - criteria for a personal import is owned and used for 12months prior to importation. You must be able to prove that especially if you are an Aussie returning. This can be done through Fuel receipts etc and passport stamps.
As a migrant I can bring my posessions but whilst I dont think they are as stringent on receipts etc, they would want to see 12 months ownership somehow.
They are trying to eliminate anyone buying a car from the UK and shipping it straight in to here as it has been flooded with Skylines, Supras from Japan.
HTH
As a migrant I can bring my posessions but whilst I dont think they are as stringent on receipts etc, they would want to see 12 months ownership somehow.
They are trying to eliminate anyone buying a car from the UK and shipping it straight in to here as it has been flooded with Skylines, Supras from Japan.
HTH
27-09-2004, 11:31 PM
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ah cool,so i wouldnt even need to run a cat ak y2k has said 
mind you it still does sound like a cool set up,so might have to have a good think about whats best for me for the future.
any other help alan just let me know
mind you it still does sound like a cool set up,so might have to have a good think about whats best for me for the future.
any other help alan just let me know
27-09-2004, 11:38 PM
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Correct mate. Thanks, much appreciated. Can you just zip those prices through as and when you get them, thats all for the moment I think!
Cheers for all the help
Cheers for all the help
27-09-2004, 11:41 PM
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they will be around what i said alan
600ish for a good head
150ish for gaskets
and there was something else which i cant remember off the top of my head,but i know it was 600ish again,lol
600ish for a good head
150ish for gaskets
and there was something else which i cant remember off the top of my head,but i know it was 600ish again,lol
29-09-2004, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by xr4x4rs
im very interested in this conversion you do but im running red top l8 could i use a p8 ecu and would it be possible to do this conversion
29-09-2004, 07:53 PM
#22
The green top ( 1992 on) 4x4 Sierra cosworth engine and all the later escos engines were built to meet US emmision regs which are just as strict as the Australian ones. To achieve this you will need a green top L8 ecu (or a converted red top L8 one)and lambda probe to meet the regs (not sure if the knock sensor is also needed). You also need a 2 stage cat as fitted to the green top engine, it has a primary stage cat in the downpipe for cold start and another cat further along the system for normal running and all needs to be closed loop. With all this fitted any good condition cosworth engine will meet the regs, but it is also worth giving the engine a good thrashing before getting it tested just to clear it out, as sometimes it can be borderline.
The green top and escos versions were also fitted with fuel vapour cannisters whereby any fumes from the tank do not vent to atmosphere but are collected in a carbon canister - this carbon cannister is then purged into the inlet when the engine is running to digest the fumes, and depending on the Australian state you may also need to get this set up fitted as well.
This is only required for grey imports - if you meet the criteria for personal import then as long as it will pass a UK pre 1992 mot then you will be fine - but you still have to make a number of safety alterations, namely child seat restraint anchors to be able to register the car even if its a personal import.
The reason I know all this is that I took a cossie out to australia a few years ago and looked seriously into importing them officially - but the market was not big enough to follow it up in the end.
Good luck if you need any further info let me know
The green top and escos versions were also fitted with fuel vapour cannisters whereby any fumes from the tank do not vent to atmosphere but are collected in a carbon canister - this carbon cannister is then purged into the inlet when the engine is running to digest the fumes, and depending on the Australian state you may also need to get this set up fitted as well.
This is only required for grey imports - if you meet the criteria for personal import then as long as it will pass a UK pre 1992 mot then you will be fine - but you still have to make a number of safety alterations, namely child seat restraint anchors to be able to register the car even if its a personal import.
The reason I know all this is that I took a cossie out to australia a few years ago and looked seriously into importing them officially - but the market was not big enough to follow it up in the end.
Good luck if you need any further info let me know
01-10-2004, 03:01 AM
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Y2K RS - thanks for the info, thats a big help. Side intrusion bars are the only other thing to my knowledge that you didnt mention that they need along with the rear child seat anchors.
The market is very small, you are right. People are more interested in looking and admiring than owning I think.
Cheers for the help
The market is very small, you are right. People are more interested in looking and admiring than owning I think.
Cheers for the help
01-10-2004, 09:31 AM
#24
Yep, forgot about the side bars, I did not need these for our personal import but did have to fit the rear seat anchors which was easy enough. Side bars became standard fitment on the small turbo escos in the uk but never on the Sierras
Also with grey imports there was a suggestion that all the seatbelts had to be replaced with new ones and possibly a non tinted front screen.
Also with grey imports there was a suggestion that all the seatbelts had to be replaced with new ones and possibly a non tinted front screen.
01-10-2004, 05:31 PM
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I thought if the car was 12 months old you didnt need to bother with all that bollocks?
mines gonna be shipped in a few weeks and need to get it right before it goes!
mines gonna be shipped in a few weeks and need to get it right before it goes!
01-10-2004, 05:34 PM
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yep defo need it sorted henry
and seeing as you have only just bought yours,i presume your going to have to import it as a grey import like alan has had too.
you have to have owned the car for over 12 months to take it over as a personal import
and seeing as you have only just bought yours,i presume your going to have to import it as a grey import like alan has had too.
you have to have owned the car for over 12 months to take it over as a personal import
01-10-2004, 06:36 PM
#29
Main things you need to do before crating up a car are:
full service and set up so that emmisions are spot on, replace all servicable components such as brakes pads, discs etc
Major steam clean everything, underside and arches, the lot including taking the wheels off as they must have no soil or contaminants anywhere. If you dont do this then customs will not clear it as they get right under it and the shipping agents charge a fortune to get it up to standard for customs clearance.
On the rear slam panel inside the boot weld two l shaped brackets with welded M6 nuts on top of the brackets, these allow fitment of child restraint anchors - you will not get registration clearance without these fitted.
If the front screen has any chips then get it replaced and the headlights if need be.
This all has to be done even to personal imports.
If you do not qualify for a personal import then further work needs doing but each state has different rules, with Victoria and NSW being the worst apparently but you will need as a minimum a post 1992 spec set up, all new seat belts usually and intrusion bars welded into the doors.
I would not bother using a shipping agent if you are already over there when the car arrives ( they are expensive and do sod all for the money they charge)
Just get the car down to Essex and drive it into the container ( Karmann shipping are very good) then when it arrives in Aus go to customs at the port with all you paperwork and then off to the dock to pick it up.
As long as all the paperwork is in order its quite straighforward, once cleared through customs you then have I think 14 days to get the car to the local registration office for a thorough inspection and then it gets taxed and they issue you with new number plates and a personal import plate to be pop rivetted to the front slam panel.
felt well cool driving a 3dr cosworth around Aus on British plates during the first 2 weeks
full service and set up so that emmisions are spot on, replace all servicable components such as brakes pads, discs etc
Major steam clean everything, underside and arches, the lot including taking the wheels off as they must have no soil or contaminants anywhere. If you dont do this then customs will not clear it as they get right under it and the shipping agents charge a fortune to get it up to standard for customs clearance.
On the rear slam panel inside the boot weld two l shaped brackets with welded M6 nuts on top of the brackets, these allow fitment of child restraint anchors - you will not get registration clearance without these fitted.
If the front screen has any chips then get it replaced and the headlights if need be.
This all has to be done even to personal imports.
If you do not qualify for a personal import then further work needs doing but each state has different rules, with Victoria and NSW being the worst apparently but you will need as a minimum a post 1992 spec set up, all new seat belts usually and intrusion bars welded into the doors.
I would not bother using a shipping agent if you are already over there when the car arrives ( they are expensive and do sod all for the money they charge)
Just get the car down to Essex and drive it into the container ( Karmann shipping are very good) then when it arrives in Aus go to customs at the port with all you paperwork and then off to the dock to pick it up.
As long as all the paperwork is in order its quite straighforward, once cleared through customs you then have I think 14 days to get the car to the local registration office for a thorough inspection and then it gets taxed and they issue you with new number plates and a personal import plate to be pop rivetted to the front slam panel.
felt well cool driving a 3dr cosworth around Aus on British plates during the first 2 weeks
01-10-2004, 08:09 PM
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I meant to say over 15 yrs old, not 12 months in my last post 
The info I have says that an import approval will be granted if the vehicle is at least 15 yrs old (which mine is obviously),
regarding compliance it states that:
Vehicles over 15 yrs old may be imported into australia without restriction. This means there is no ownership or use requirements, or compliance plates to be fitted. The vehicles are not exempt from state or territory requirements and you should determine such requirements from the state or authority that you intend to register the vehicle in.
Is it the state/territory requirements that cause the probelm then???
Im also taking mine to melbourne and only have a few weeks to finish it off now
Am i gonna have to sort all this shit out???
will Stu's closed loop system eliminate the need for a cat etc?
getting worried now
The info I have says that an import approval will be granted if the vehicle is at least 15 yrs old (which mine is obviously),
regarding compliance it states that:
Vehicles over 15 yrs old may be imported into australia without restriction. This means there is no ownership or use requirements, or compliance plates to be fitted. The vehicles are not exempt from state or territory requirements and you should determine such requirements from the state or authority that you intend to register the vehicle in.
Is it the state/territory requirements that cause the probelm then???
Im also taking mine to melbourne and only have a few weeks to finish it off now
Am i gonna have to sort all this shit out???
will Stu's closed loop system eliminate the need for a cat etc?
getting worried now
01-10-2004, 08:38 PM
#31
Best to get in touch with the registration dept of the state you are moving to, the above excemption means you can get the car through customs, but it does not mean you can actually get it registered - this is why this post was put up I believe as a similar owner is now having problems now the car is actually over there.
A guy I met had two mgb,s stuck in his garage when I took our car over, he had brought them in via the 15 yr excemption but could not get them registered as they were just to old to get through the registration requirements.
Whenever possible go for personal import as you then bypass all the red tape. It was only 3 months ownership when we did it, which now looks to have changed
A guy I met had two mgb,s stuck in his garage when I took our car over, he had brought them in via the 15 yr excemption but could not get them registered as they were just to old to get through the registration requirements.
Whenever possible go for personal import as you then bypass all the red tape. It was only 3 months ownership when we did it, which now looks to have changed
03-10-2004, 10:57 PM
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Y2K RS - you need an agent at least at this end, as an individual you cannot get to the docks. The nearest you can get is the quarantine centre. I have a good one anyway so Uncle Henry if you need the contact, let me know.
You persumably have an import approval for your car? Dont ship it until you do or it will not be allowed into the country. They are available from the dotars website which is www.dotars.gov.au I believe. I think I have one electronically somewhere at home anyway. That takes a few weeks to do as it has to be posted to Canberra.
Any other questions ask away.
You should be OK with Melbourne stuff as I am doing it all at the moment and there is a top guy who complies them and is doing mine.
The rules for registering and driving are different now too. You get a type of temporary licence for either 7, 14 or 28 days from vicroads (for melbourne) which enables you to drive it to or from a place where the car is having work. This is because realisitically you have to get several jobs done which could be anywhere in Melbourne. It is cheap enough to get though.
You persumably have an import approval for your car? Dont ship it until you do or it will not be allowed into the country. They are available from the dotars website which is www.dotars.gov.au I believe. I think I have one electronically somewhere at home anyway. That takes a few weeks to do as it has to be posted to Canberra.
Any other questions ask away.
You should be OK with Melbourne stuff as I am doing it all at the moment and there is a top guy who complies them and is doing mine.
The rules for registering and driving are different now too. You get a type of temporary licence for either 7, 14 or 28 days from vicroads (for melbourne) which enables you to drive it to or from a place where the car is having work. This is because realisitically you have to get several jobs done which could be anywhere in Melbourne. It is cheap enough to get though.
03-10-2004, 11:02 PM
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There is some useful info on this page.
The email address of vimports@dotars.gov.au is also helpful as the staff are very good. Any questions, yell
Here is the form, near the bottom of the page in either word or PDF. If you need a cheque writing in aussie dollars let me know and you can pay the money into my UK account to save you any fees. Its about 20quid I think.
Called "Application for Approval to Import a Vehicle"
http://www.dotars.gov.au/transreg/vsb/vsb_10.htm
The email address of vimports@dotars.gov.au is also helpful as the staff are very good. Any questions, yell
Here is the form, near the bottom of the page in either word or PDF. If you need a cheque writing in aussie dollars let me know and you can pay the money into my UK account to save you any fees. Its about 20quid I think.
Called "Application for Approval to Import a Vehicle"
http://www.dotars.gov.au/transreg/vsb/vsb_10.htm
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