Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Anyone on here able to render?

Our bungalow needs rendering and we are looking for someone to do it. Anyone want to??!!

What sort of cost is involved?

Is there a time of year that is ideal to do it? I'm assuming that it's not good to do it in weather extremes?

GaryEvo

can beccy not do a course for it??

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

DON'T suggest that!!!

Jamz

Haven't you finished that place yet, seems like you've been at it for yeeears.

Nath

Its a shame your so far away but this should proove helpful:

http://www.diynot.com/pages/op/op006.php

http://www.diydata.com/materials/cement/cement.htm

As long as its prepped properly, your laughing and after seeing some of your previous DIY on here, you should be able to breeze it.

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Gary you are a C*nt

I guarantee I could pack up at BT now and become one of these home improvement guys. I have no worries, I get stuck in and dont mind getting dirty!

Beccy

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

LOL. We have!!

silverfox999

Why does it need doing?

Often simple patching and then sealing up will suffice, you can cause more damage hacking the stuff off rather than repairing what you have already got.

HTH?

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

I'm talking EXTERNAL!!

The bungalow is red-brick and isn't in great condition cosmetically, so must be rendered, then painted to finish it off.

cozzfather

iTrader: (1)

i'm nearly finished painting the rendering on our house, our plaster fella
rekoned" if yer don't get the muck painted mate it'll F##kin fall
off like" so don't leave the painting long after its done
he said he could get the old off for Ł2500 and put new on
but recommended cleaning it up with a few repairs and
going again over the top,cost Ł850.
nice to have a bit of honesty from your tradesmen

silverfox999

About Ł25 for big firm to undertake, dropping down for local builder, make sure they key it up well for you.......

HTH

silverfox999

Doh

Ł25 per M2.

Lee Reynolds

Is it cavity wall construction?

RichardPON

So I hear! The things we get told

Basky

weather is another worrie
i hate rendering at the best of times never mind in the cold damp pissing down
why dont you patch it and then tyrelene it so it ties it all back

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Yes.

We were told that mesh would need to be applied prior to rendering and that we could save alot of cost by doing this ourselves, but to be honest, this is one job I would just like to get someone to do from start to finish as I have quite enough stress without that!!

FPMSL @ PON, she walked right into that one!!

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Patch what??

Again, it is RED BRICK!!! It needs rendering for the first time that it has ever been rendered!!

It's had windows bricked up and a few other things that need covering up to be honest. Nothing dodgy, but no way to make it look pretty.

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Come on guys. HELP!!

tpaul

Hi There
If i was closer to you i would take it on.
What type on finish are you going for smooth to be painted ?
If your backing is brick and has not been painted etc a good power wash to clean it seal it and mesh over any suspect areas.
You would be looking at a 3-1 scratch coat for the entire building this would have to then cure for at least a week before the second or final coat is applied.
4-1 or poss 5-1 for you final coat, would need to be feathered up with a straight edge, then use a float to get your final finish. I like to go over that again with a sponge to get a not to rough but decent finsih with a bit of a key for painting at a later date.
Also waterproofer would need to be added and plasterciser.
Weather wise is a hard one, really a cloudy day no rain etc, wind can also be a problem and can dry what you have done too so it will blow off the wall.
I would also consider setting in angle beads around the windows and doors etc so you get a nice tidy sharp corner. You can use batttons but it is far easier in the future to chip and damage corners without a bead set in.
I hope this helps you out, not sure of the price in your area but i would imagine it is going to be around the 20-25 pr sq mtr there, down in sunny wales its about 14sq mtr.
I have also been made redundant in the last seven days and plaster part time so this would have been ideal for me but the distance is the problem as i have a 3yr old to look after.
let me know if you need any more help
Paul

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Paul, thats really helpful. Thanks for that.

Any idea of *roughly* what sort of square meterage the average 3 bedroom detached bungalow with attached garage is?

I don't even have the faintest clue.

We would be looking for a smooth finish that we can paint.

tpaul

hi unfortunatley it would be measure out jobbie and add approx 10% for wastage and different depths in the building and garage. I would say measure in total and forget the windows and doors that should cover your wastage.
then just deduct the garage door out of this.
If you are going to paint you can use std gey cement which will work out cheaper for you rather than going for the white snow crete. I would try and get blue cicle as that is about the best.
Once you have your meterage worked outt this should be able to give you an idea on what sort of price your paying for the job to be done. I normally ask the customer to get materials as i dont have the funds to supply as well, I would get a labour only quote and one with materials included. Price up the stuff yourself and you will be able to tell who is trying to get the most out of you.
Also i would go for somebody who has been reccomended and you can go and see the work they have done, there are a lot of dodgy people out there for a quick buck and could leave you well out of pocket.
As if they have a portfolio of their work as well. The good guys have this, im working on one as i go along but forget to take the camera half the time lol.
If you can measure out and get back to me i should be able to tell you roughly what you need materials wise
Cheers
Paul

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Paul, you have been a great help.

We usually supply materials in the rare instances that we pay anyone to do work for us!! Beccy tends to shop hard and gets good trade prices out of Ridgeons/Travis Perkins etc.

The guy that did our plastering will quote for the rendering, but I don't intend to just go straight with him.

I find that I think about it too much. Stuff like.....

Will the fascia's need to come off? (these are going to be redone sometime soon, but not yet)

What happens at ground level? Do you end up with a visible ridge??

This is why I want to pay someone to do it, I can get my head round most stuff, but this job is one for a pro!!!

tpaul

Hi
I would say if your going to get the fascia sorted i would get the old ones off and render right up so that once it is feathered it will be flat for your new ones.
With it going into a bell at the bottom yes this can happen but it is how you apply it to the surface if done correctly this should not happen.
You can also have different types of fascia, sometimes if you have timber ones there and they are set in and not rotten etc might be worth leaving them in and going on top of them with pvc jobbies.
Good luck with what you do if you need any more info/help let me know.
Cheers
Paul

Lee Reynolds

with all due respect, beccy no matter how hard she shops wont get a better price for materials than a bonafide builder with a trade account...

Put some pics up Christian as im finding it hard to beleive a red brick house wants rendering. Rendering is really the last resort...and once done there is usually no going back, and over the years lots of maintainance...

We are on with a rendering job at the moment. Only reason it is getting rendered is that it is an old stone cottage, and the stone work is knackered. Usually id want to replace old worn stone then point to whole lot, but the rest of the cottage is rendered so this is getting done the same.

Like i say, LAST resort...imo

silverfox999

Following on from Lee's post, who decided that it actually needs rendering.

If you want to render then thats fine. However, bricks rarely 'fail' (depending on age, materials, exposure etc) and its normally the pointing that fails - it is designed to to protect the bricks.

How old is your home?

Silver

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

No, Lee, I'm sure that is the case. However, I bet she can buy any building materials cheaper than a bonafide builder would sell them to her, as no builder will sell them for what he pays (unless he is making it up in another part of the job). Agreed?

Anyway, here is our bungalow as we bought it.......



Here it is once we got cracking, note the area's of dodgy coloured brick under the bay's and a bricked-up window at the side.......



But for the finale, what the fook would you do about this without rendering??



Answers on a postcard!!.....

neil d

looks perfect for a conservatory at the back and round corner then the wals would be inside and could be plastererd

silverfox999

mmmm, without seeing it. it looks like effloresence (or else crap brick matching (possibly the latter)) to the lower bay sections.

The only dodgy looking areas are the lower bays and rear block section.

1. you could prep and paint the entire building - waaaaayyy cheaper than rendering.

2. You could pebble/spar/render these three areas and save a bundle of cash.

3. Render/pebble/dash the rear block section and paint the remainder

4. Render the whole thing

Your choice.

HTH? Silver

Mark V8

iTrader: (2)

It cost me Ł450 to get the back of my house rendered but it is wood clad on the first floor. It is not a good idea to go all the way down as you can't really bridge the damp course which tends to be around 2 bricks up from ground level.

Mark

silverfox999

Another thought (although not really applicable here)

If you supply the materials and there is a problem in the future it gives the contractor an angle to use. i.e. "i never supplied the cement, it must be off etc.

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Firstly, a conservatory may happen, but truthfully it's low on the list of priorities, mainly from a cost point-of-view.

There is no way I could accept our bungalow looking anything other than 'proper', which is why I wanted to cover the grotty looking bits. The dodgy bit under the bays is poor brick matching.

It is clear that the intention of the previous owner was to render. There is a feature in the brickwork just beneath the 'slit' windows, which has been cut with a grinder ready to chisel off, which is also why they weren't bothered with brick matching I imagine.

The block section at the back was formerly a veranda type area, under the roof and was blocked up, which we didn't do, but is now our Dining Room. Again, the use of blocks supports the fact that the intention was to render.

I know it's going to be expensive, but we have pretty much concluded that it's a necessary thing.

neil d

the bays could be knocked down and re built in better matchin bricks and may be a industial pressure wash and re pointed would not make a bad looklng property

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

If it were just the bays, I would consider that!!

project rs

hi there if you were in our area it'd cost you 1250 to dash or stipple render it or 1500 to do a smooth render (labour only). personally i'd go for a multispar dash like canterbury as this gives a nice finish which has no long term maintanance and done right will out last us all. i agree with paul 3 to 1 mix but if you want the best mortar you could go with a 50/50 split yellow sand to red sand with a shovel of lime added to it aswell with the waterproofer and plasticiser, we use this mix for both coats on all family members houses so we don't have any come backs

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Cool. We had anticipated around Ł2k, so at least we are along the right lines there. But what on earth does......

......look like??!!!

We would prefer a smooth paintable finish, not what I know as pebble-dash. Is that what this is?

silverfox999

Make sure you use lime......gives it a little flexibilty.

project rs

yes multispar is dash. if you definately want smooth render make sure who ever does it doesn't do it when the suns on the wall it alters its final strenght. when you come to paint it make sure you allow it a month to dry then go over it with a stabalising solution first then paint as soon as this is dry normally next day. good luck

Lee Reynolds

NOPE, totally disagree. When i price for work, i get a firm price of suppliers, then add my labour ...and thats what i/we charge. IF more materials are needed after...ie extra work then the customer gets charged accordingly.

You have obviosuly either

Spoke to the wrong people about how builders work...
Used the wrong builders in the past and are tying the lot with the same brush...
Made your own conclusions basd upon what youve seen on rogue traders

Lee Reynolds

i would save up btw, and have a builder get a brick match and re do all the un matched brickwork, then have the whole lot pointed.

If that bungalow was mine it WOULD NOT get rendered.

Saving money rendering that is a mistake imo...id sell the old ford before waste money on render to save a few quid

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Lee, I'm sorry but my understanding of how the 'trade' operate in any field, not just building, is that they buy their materials for 'trade' price, then sell on at either a 'retail' price of a discounted version of.

Are you saying that's not the case?

So, what's the point of a 'trade' price then?

It's great if what you are saying it true, but we (APT) for example don't sell to our customers at our buy-in price even if we are charging labour to fit the item, I make no secret of that and I just figured that is the same across all industries. We do discount our products in certain circumstances, but never sell for cost. It's just not business sense to do so.