putting in 100% coolant.........
23-08-2006, 02:55 PM
#41
Advanced PassionFord User
Originally Posted by foreigneRS
why does raising the boiling point give better cooling properties of the fluid?
i don't know if it does or doesn't as i haven't seen the data.
what i do know, is that raising the boiling point gives you a more effective radiator for any given size as the temperature difference between the water inside and the air passing across it is greater.
and we all know that the cooling capacity of a heat exchanger is determined from the mass flow of the fluid through it multiplied by the temperature difference don't we?
but if all that you want to do is raise the boiling point of your coolant, chuck a load of salt in there
i don't know if it does or doesn't as i haven't seen the data.
what i do know, is that raising the boiling point gives you a more effective radiator for any given size as the temperature difference between the water inside and the air passing across it is greater.
and we all know that the cooling capacity of a heat exchanger is determined from the mass flow of the fluid through it multiplied by the temperature difference don't we?
but if all that you want to do is raise the boiling point of your coolant, chuck a load of salt in there
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. You would recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and high performance radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 93ºC. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate.
Ian
23-08-2006, 03:01 PM
#43
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Mike, i know modern stuff is under pressure but if you whack a uprated cap to open at a higher pressure then it's just gonna glow gaskets and matrix's isn't it?
23-08-2006, 03:29 PM
#44
Testing the future
Originally Posted by James
Mike, i know modern stuff is under pressure but if you whack a uprated cap to open at a higher pressure then it's just gonna glow gaskets and matrix's isn't it?
also don't forget that some glycol's have additives for alloy engines as those without are corrosive to alloy
, and some don't. what you do with an engine that has an iron block and an alloy head i don't know
23-08-2006, 06:57 PM
#46
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id mix it 75% antifreeze to 25% water !!!
If you get chance flush out your cooling system and heater matrix first idealy using some dish wash fluid as it doesnt foam up like other detergents !!!
Also ideal water temp at hot should be about 180 and oil temp 220 to get the best out of an engine or so David Vizard recomends !!
If you get chance flush out your cooling system and heater matrix first idealy using some dish wash fluid as it doesnt foam up like other detergents !!!
Also ideal water temp at hot should be about 180 and oil temp 220 to get the best out of an engine or so David Vizard recomends !!
24-08-2006, 08:14 AM
#48
Testing the future
Originally Posted by kas 3dr
Also ideal water temp at hot should be about 180 and oil temp 220 to get the best out of an engine or so David Vizard recomends !!
82 °C and 104 °C just to clarify 
24-08-2006, 08:48 AM
#49
10K+ Poster!!
Originally Posted by foreigneRS
Originally Posted by kas 3dr
Also ideal water temp at hot should be about 180 and oil temp 220 to get the best out of an engine or so David Vizard recomends !!
82 °C and 104 °C just to clarify If Vizard said it - he's proabably talking about iron V8s
For example running my A-series at 60 degrees C makes more power!
Alex
24-08-2006, 08:54 AM
#50
Testing the future
i wasn't necessarily agreeing with it alex, just clarifying the numbers in case some idiot (probably a woman ) looks at their temperature gauge when it's boiling over at 120 °C and thinks it's OK to let it go another 60 degrees hotter 
) looks at their temperature gauge when it's boiling over at 120 °C and thinks it's OK to let it go another 60 degrees hotter
24-08-2006, 09:09 PM
#52
S1 Database Editor
Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
as it is the water that corrodes and is why you musn't run 100% WATER 
.
.
24-08-2006, 09:44 PM
#57
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Originally Posted by rs shawn
Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
as it is the water that corrodes and is why you musn't run 100% WATER .
.INCORRECT
If the water froze- it would be fuckin cold.. hence ICE and that offers plenty of cooling - well in my Coke anyway
25-08-2006, 07:26 AM
#61
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
evening alex
mine snapped.... trust me
mine snapped.... trust me
Had to get a kettle and pour it on the water pump housing. Not the best image to give off when someone is viewing the car
27-08-2006, 02:01 AM
#63
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze
In the 1980's inventor Jack Evans discovered the advantages of using a waterless coolant. His final formulation is a mixture of ethylene glycol and propylene glycol. This coolant has a high boiling point of 370F and is not corrosive, solving many of water's problems including freezing.
Most commercial antifreeze formulations include corrosion inhibiting compounds, and a colored dye (commonly a green, red or blue fluorescent) to aid in identification. A 1:1 dilution with water is usually used, resulting in a freezing point of approximately −40 °F (−40 °C). In warmer areas weaker dilutions are used.
Glycol antifreeze solutions should generally be replaced with fresh mixture every two years. Many modern cars now come filled with organic acid technology (OAT) antifreeze (such as Dex-Cool[1]), which has an extended service life of five years. Although these still contain glycol, OAT solutions may not be compatible with conventional inorganic-based coolants containing glycol (e.g., with silicates, borates, phosphates) and, if changing from one type to the other, the cooling system must be thoroughly flushed with clean water.[citation needed] Typically OAT antifreeze contains a red or pink dye to differentiate it from the conventional inorganic coolants (blue or green). Some of the newer technology OAT coolants claim to be compatible with all types of OAT and inorganic-based coolants; these are typically green or yellow in color.[2]
If ingested, the antidote for antifreeze is usually ethanol or fomepizole.
In the 1980's inventor Jack Evans discovered the advantages of using a waterless coolant. His final formulation is a mixture of ethylene glycol and propylene glycol. This coolant has a high boiling point of 370F and is not corrosive, solving many of water's problems including freezing.
Most commercial antifreeze formulations include corrosion inhibiting compounds, and a colored dye (commonly a green, red or blue fluorescent) to aid in identification. A 1:1 dilution with water is usually used, resulting in a freezing point of approximately −40 °F (−40 °C). In warmer areas weaker dilutions are used.
Glycol antifreeze solutions should generally be replaced with fresh mixture every two years. Many modern cars now come filled with organic acid technology (OAT) antifreeze (such as Dex-Cool[1]), which has an extended service life of five years. Although these still contain glycol, OAT solutions may not be compatible with conventional inorganic-based coolants containing glycol (e.g., with silicates, borates, phosphates) and, if changing from one type to the other, the cooling system must be thoroughly flushed with clean water.[citation needed] Typically OAT antifreeze contains a red or pink dye to differentiate it from the conventional inorganic coolants (blue or green). Some of the newer technology OAT coolants claim to be compatible with all types of OAT and inorganic-based coolants; these are typically green or yellow in color.[2]
If ingested, the antidote for antifreeze is usually ethanol or fomepizole.
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