sub box size.....
11-06-2006, 10:05 PM
#1
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sub box size.....
my brother wants to build his own custom box for his sub in his car.
i know that the capacity of the box effects how it sounds.
does anyone know how to work out how big it should be.
i know he wont be able to build the box spot on, but better to have an idea of what size to aim for.
its a 12" splx sub and i think its between 500 and 550 watts.
and its running off a splx 500 watt amp.
cheers in advance guys!
i know that the capacity of the box effects how it sounds.
does anyone know how to work out how big it should be.
i know he wont be able to build the box spot on, but better to have an idea of what size to aim for.
its a 12" splx sub and i think its between 500 and 550 watts.
and its running off a splx 500 watt amp.
cheers in advance guys!
11-06-2006, 10:17 PM
#3
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its a mk3 golf.
just going in the boot. its still got all its back seats and stuff.
dunno if it matters but it also has a mdf parcel shelf
just going in the boot. its still got all its back seats and stuff.
dunno if it matters but it also has a mdf parcel shelf
11-06-2006, 10:18 PM
#4
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to calculate box size correctly, you need to know the following...
Speakers natural free air resonant frequency.
The speakers Q factor.
The desired frequency range the speaker needs to emit.
Whether or not the speaker can cope with a port or not.
The maximum available volume air that can be contained.
The calculations are quite complex and I cant remember them off hand
but generally most people who make custom boxes for there car just
build any size and hope for the best then use a crossover to make it
sound correct but this will never produce the best sound that it could
if the proper maths are done but IMO in a car it makes little difference
as any install will be a compromise as the cars acoustic characteristics
will change when driving compared with standing still.
Speakers natural free air resonant frequency.
The speakers Q factor.
The desired frequency range the speaker needs to emit.
Whether or not the speaker can cope with a port or not.
The maximum available volume air that can be contained.
The calculations are quite complex and I cant remember them off hand
but generally most people who make custom boxes for there car just
build any size and hope for the best then use a crossover to make it
sound correct but this will never produce the best sound that it could
if the proper maths are done but IMO in a car it makes little difference
as any install will be a compromise as the cars acoustic characteristics
will change when driving compared with standing still.
11-06-2006, 10:25 PM
#6
PassionFord Post Troll
this sub is a 1500 watt 10" and the escos boot is tiny, but the sound is awesome and ear drum splitting, mind you there are 2x 7"x10" hq's aswell. wouldnt worry to much about the mathematics just put one in away you go 
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11-06-2006, 10:34 PM
#8
PassionFord Post Troll
Originally Posted by SECS
Originally Posted by K5SSY
.... wouldnt worry to much about the mathematics just put one in away you go
was posting my own and seen it when i posted 
11-06-2006, 11:15 PM
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cheers.
K5SSY
i know what u mean about the ears!
i had 2 12" kickers L7's in my car for a while on the 1200.1 amp.
now that was loud!
i'll tell him to just build it to the size he thinks looks best. its never gonna sound great anyway being just a splx sub. but he is just a boy having some fun.
stu i will have a look on google and if its not to hard to get a rough size he can aim for that.
K5SSY
i know what u mean about the ears!
i had 2 12" kickers L7's in my car for a while on the 1200.1 amp.
now that was loud!
i'll tell him to just build it to the size he thinks looks best. its never gonna sound great anyway being just a splx sub. but he is just a boy having some fun.
stu i will have a look on google and if its not to hard to get a rough size he can aim for that.
12-06-2006, 01:39 AM
#11
Yep as stu says is the theile smal parameters that are the key thing.
most manufacturers will quote a recomended volume though, so talk to the people who made the sub first of all.
often they will quote for ported and unported and will specify port sizes too
most manufacturers will quote a recomended volume though, so talk to the people who made the sub first of all.
often they will quote for ported and unported and will specify port sizes too
12-06-2006, 01:52 AM
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Also, no-one's mentioned that the construction of the box matters a hell of a lot. Decent thickness MDF, *properly* sealed.
I'd do what Chip says, use the mfrs recommended volume, they'll often give you a recommended box size as well, take that, and with a bit of trial-and-error, you can get a rough approximation. It won't matter too much anyway unless you're going for competition, and even then it's a bit arguable.
I'd do what Chip says, use the mfrs recommended volume, they'll often give you a recommended box size as well, take that, and with a bit of trial-and-error, you can get a rough approximation. It won't matter too much anyway unless you're going for competition, and even then it's a bit arguable.
12-06-2006, 01:55 AM
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I did this for a mate of mine just bought the box's that were recommended from the guy we bought the subs from.
It wasn't that loud 120bd
Check with the sub manufacture people and look for the recommended enclosure size should be able to find one from any of the online dealers
12-06-2006, 01:59 AM
#16
BTW
My favourite of all is the *computer designed 10" sub box* type adverts.
As an example i used two different kenwood subs a few years ago in successive installs.
Both made by kenwood, both 10"
Volume for one: 14.7 litres
Volume for the other: 27 litres
Funny how a box can be designed for a 10" sub if the required volume can be double, and thats just two from the same manufacturer, its not even like it represents the extremes of the whole market or anything.
My favourite of all is the *computer designed 10" sub box* type adverts.
As an example i used two different kenwood subs a few years ago in successive installs.
Both made by kenwood, both 10"
Volume for one: 14.7 litres
Volume for the other: 27 litres
Funny how a box can be designed for a 10" sub if the required volume can be double, and thats just two from the same manufacturer, its not even like it represents the extremes of the whole market or anything.
12-06-2006, 10:21 AM
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the L7's i had hit 142.7 db at a sound off i went to.
and that was running off a poor head unit that couldnt be set up greatly to get the best from the subs.
but it was more than loud enough for me!
cheers again for the advice. i'll send him the link to this post i think and let him make his own mind up about how to do it.
and that was running off a poor head unit that couldnt be set up greatly to get the best from the subs.
but it was more than loud enough for me!
cheers again for the advice. i'll send him the link to this post i think and let him make his own mind up about how to do it.
12-06-2006, 10:44 AM
#19
ill make him a PROPER box 
its my speciality but it takes time to get the box CORRECT and tailer made for HIS type of music and HIS car....so basically the boxes i build are fine tuned for the driver although they will play every type of music...but wil be in their own league when played with the music they were designed for...
out of curiosity, what sub is it and what car?
some examples of my work:
my Pioneers in my escort (although its a VERY VERY old pic, the subs have been changed to the newer 3004SPL's)...any one who heard it at FITP will know the damage they can do
my old Orion H2 15......2000wrms and does EVERYTHING 2 Kicker L7 15's do!! the difference....i played louder with one sub then ANY pair of kickers i heard
and thats my old car...4 Kicker L5 12's 
i dont only do MAD installs, i also do PROPER boot builds and SQ builds as well as fibreglass work so i wont rob the whole boot if not needed
bassboy
its my speciality but it takes time to get the box CORRECT and tailer made for HIS type of music and HIS car....so basically the boxes i build are fine tuned for the driver although they will play every type of music...but wil be in their own league when played with the music they were designed for...out of curiosity, what sub is it and what car?
some examples of my work:
my Pioneers in my escort (although its a VERY VERY old pic, the subs have been changed to the newer 3004SPL's)...any one who heard it at FITP will know the damage they can do
my old Orion H2 15......2000wrms and does EVERYTHING 2 Kicker L7 15's do!! the difference....i played louder with one sub then ANY pair of kickers i heard
and thats my old car...4 Kicker L5 12's
i dont only do MAD installs, i also do PROPER boot builds and SQ builds as well as fibreglass work so i wont rob the whole boot if not needed
bassboy
12-06-2006, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by chip-3door
120db?
Thats not an install, thats a loud fart
Thats not an install, thats a loud fart
13-06-2006, 02:17 AM
#21
Originally Posted by bassboy
ill make him a PROPER box its my speciality but it takes time to get the box CORRECT and tailer made for HIS type of music and HIS car....so basically the boxes i build are fine tuned for the driver although they will play every type of music...but wil be in their own league when played with the music they were designed for...
out of curiosity, what sub is it and what car?
some examples of my work:
my Pioneers in my escort (although its a VERY VERY old pic, the subs have been changed to the newer 3004SPL's)...any one who heard it at FITP will know the damage they can do
my old Orion H2 15......2000wrms and does EVERYTHING 2 Kicker L7 15's do!! the difference....i played louder with one sub then ANY pair of kickers i heard
and thats my old car...4 Kicker L5 12's
i dont only do MAD installs, i also do PROPER boot builds and SQ builds as well as fibreglass work so i wont rob the whole boot if not needed
bassboy
its my speciality but it takes time to get the box CORRECT and tailer made for HIS type of music and HIS car....so basically the boxes i build are fine tuned for the driver although they will play every type of music...but wil be in their own league when played with the music they were designed for...out of curiosity, what sub is it and what car?
some examples of my work:
my Pioneers in my escort (although its a VERY VERY old pic, the subs have been changed to the newer 3004SPL's)...any one who heard it at FITP will know the damage they can do
my old Orion H2 15......2000wrms and does EVERYTHING 2 Kicker L7 15's do!! the difference....i played louder with one sub then ANY pair of kickers i heard
and thats my old car...4 Kicker L5 12's
i dont only do MAD installs, i also do PROPER boot builds and SQ builds as well as fibreglass work so i wont rob the whole boot if not needed
bassboy
thats not a car. its a fucking nightclub on wheels out of intrest what headunit was used in the black car ??
13-06-2006, 04:17 PM
#22
avid-fan lets just say louder than a night club
the headunit was an Alpine 7588RB with a 6 disc changer and an EGR 320 Alpine EQ IIRC...was a good setup! especiallt as there were 4v preouts! Pioneer is on 6v preouts which is even better
bassboy
lets just say louder than a night club the headunit was an Alpine 7588RB with a 6 disc changer and an EGR 320 Alpine EQ IIRC...was a good setup! especiallt as there were 4v preouts! Pioneer is on 6v preouts which is even better
bassboy
13-06-2006, 04:25 PM
#23
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i dont think he is quite in need of a custom install.
he just wanted to build something a bit different.
its a vw golf mk 3. and just an splx sub. he just wants a bit of bass tbh. nothing crazy.
he wanted to build something like a twin box. with the amp mounted on one side, the sub on the other and make 2 vw grills to go over both of them. and some neons to light them up.
he just wanted to build something a bit different.
its a vw golf mk 3. and just an splx sub. he just wants a bit of bass tbh. nothing crazy.
he wanted to build something like a twin box. with the amp mounted on one side, the sub on the other and make 2 vw grills to go over both of them. and some neons to light them up.
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