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Sapphire sills

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Old 17-05-2020, 02:11 PM
  #1  
cossiestu
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Default Sapphire sills

Had a look under mine the other day for the first time in ages and discovered a pretty big rust hole at the rear of the sill...
Whats the score with regard to replacements? I’ve never done a decent weld in my life, but have friends family who can. I was going on the theory of just cutting out the rot, rather than changing the whole sill, but, on a Sapphire, is the inner sill basically just a flat section, that I can cut out and weld a plate in place?
Hopefully I can load the (crap) pics I took...?!



Old 17-05-2020, 10:35 PM
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martysmartie
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See my welding thread, have the same issue, although yours is much worse than mine.

Like you I have never touched a welder, but it's a skill I want to learn.

Replacing an inner sill is a big task, as the sills are where the strength in the car lies. I think all inner sills are flat plates, however when formed with the outer sill, it provides a rigid structure.

So far as I am aware, you need to brace the shell and make sure things like doors are in alignment before you weld the new one on.

This is what I had in mind, but in my case I am hoping I can get away with repairing.

However in your case I don't think you have any chance of good metal to weld to.

Fortunately, new sills are available.

Martin
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cossiestu (21-05-2020)
Old 17-05-2020, 10:53 PM
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mk1turboestate
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It doesn’t look to bad really, cut back to clean steel on the outside first, I’m not sure if a Sierra has a box section behind the sill, you pay only need a partial repair panel, I would say looking at the pic the inner sill needs a fair bit of work so as mentioned it’s probably worth a brace when you cut it out.
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cossiestu (21-05-2020)
Old 18-05-2020, 01:52 PM
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you really need to tske the beam out to get at the back section of the inner sill, it will need replacing, carefully check the full length of the sill to determine if you need a full sill or just repairing the back section
there is a centre section to the sill that rots aswell you can see yours has gone

steve
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Old 20-05-2020, 08:58 AM
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cossynut2
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cossiestu. Must have been a bit of a shock to find that amount of rust!! I am so thankful that the first owner before I got my Saff had the waxoyle treatment done and 25 years later still no rust. My advice would be get it done by a good reliable bodywork guy. If you are not 100% confident of your own welding skills it could be a real nightmare.I have always believed in certain jobs need to be done by specialists and providing your funds will allow it get it done properly and you will never need to worry about it in the future. Good luck with what ever route you decide to take.
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Old 20-05-2020, 12:05 PM
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Adam-M
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I’d replace the whole outer and inner sills, pretty sure it’s the sunroof drain that causes that rot?? As said above I’d also drop the beam off to do it right and also gives you a chance to check the rear chassis legs which are prone for rust
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Old 20-05-2020, 04:50 PM
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martysmartie
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It's a good point as the project I have, has rusted in practically the same location on both sides.

In this case the sunroof was leaking and I think the water has run to the back via the drain pipes, it's a crazy design, they should have run them straight to the ground

Also, I think the water in the offside floor pan caused it to rust so quickly.

To be honest though, given the age, it's inevitable for a car (in my case, at least) that has been used daily and in all weather.

Martin
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Old 21-05-2020, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by martysmartie
It's a good point as the project I have, has rusted in practically the same location on both sides.

In this case the sunroof was leaking and I think the water has run to the back via the drain pipes, it's a crazy design, they should have run them straight to the ground

Also, I think the water in the offside floor pan caused it to rust so quickly.

To be honest though, given the age, it's inevitable for a car (in my case, at least) that has been used daily and in all weather.

Martin
Compared to new Ford car production now, rust prevention was way down at the bottom of importance back then. Used as a daily with all the salt that gets put on our roads in winter it is no wonder so many rusted away!!
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Old 21-05-2020, 03:27 PM
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Thanks for your help lads! Martysmarty, I’ll have a gander at your thread...!👍
In terms of bracing, just tack a bar across the doors?
Old 21-05-2020, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cossiestu
Thanks for your help lads! Martysmarty, I’ll have a gander at your thread...!👍
In terms of bracing, just tack a bar across the doors?
you can remove the door, door catch and brace between the door catch mounting holes and the check strap mount
Steve
Old 25-05-2020, 03:46 PM
  #11  
tosh
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I didn’t think the rear sunroof drain pipes would even be able to get into the rear part of the sills as even if they were leaking it would either stain the headliner at the joint where the pipe meets the sunroof tray drain at the rear, or in the boot area where it exits by the rear boot vents useless the pipe was split within the C pillars.

The front sunroof drains are a different matter though as they do drain into the front part of the sills and then drain out of the sill drain slots, and depending on if you car is parked facing up hill which will allow the water that gets into the sill to run to the back end of the sill and rot it away at that point, when I repaired my footwell rust I cut the drivers floor pan out Just above the front jacking points and noticed that rain also leaks into them as there’s a small slot between the sill and the inside of the jacking points (I put a photo on here somewhere showing this point but can’t find it)

have heard that some have extended the front drains within the a pillar and diverted them into the front wheel arch area behind the wheel arch liners.

Hope all this made sense as I’ve had several beers in the garden
Old 26-05-2020, 08:12 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by tosh
I didn’t think the rear sunroof drain pipes would even be able to get into the rear part of the sills as even if they were leaking it would either stain the headliner at the joint where the pipe meets the sunroof tray drain at the rear, or in the boot area where it exits by the rear boot vents useless the pipe was split within the C pillars.

The front sunroof drains are a different matter though as they do drain into the front part of the sills and then drain out of the sill drain slots, and depending on if you car is parked facing up hill which will allow the water that gets into the sill to run to the back end of the sill and rot it away at that point, when I repaired my footwell rust I cut the drivers floor pan out Just above the front jacking points and noticed that rain also leaks into them as there’s a small slot between the sill and the inside of the jacking points (I put a photo on here somewhere showing this point but can’t find it)

have heard that some have extended the front drains within the a pillar and diverted them into the front wheel arch area behind the wheel arch liners.

Hope all this made sense as I’ve had several beers in the garden
That is exactly the case on mine, as the car is parked on a hill and so the water has probably run to the back,as you say (the rust is practically at the same location, both sides). The sunroof leaked badly, such that the interior used to get soaked and had been like it for a while.

Martin
Old 26-05-2020, 02:37 PM
  #13  
iansoutham
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They go at the back as there is a factory locating hole For when on the production line on the inner sill that allows all the water and everything in.

look on a car that has not had the inner sill done and, right in line with the rear beam, there is a round hole a bit bigger than the diameter of your finger.

clean out and fill with cavity wax and then put a decent grommet in the hole.
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