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ARP stud and nut kit

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Old 08-04-2011 | 07:25 PM
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Default ARP stud and nut kit

Are these ARP stud and nut kits any better than the Std head bolts same go's for the mains caps.

Are Std head bolts stretch type do they need changing every time.
Old 08-04-2011 | 07:46 PM
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The std ford bolts are stretch blots, and do indeed need changing every time, although some don't!!
The std ford bolts for the mains are ok, and don't generally give trouble, but replacing the rod bolts for ARP is good practice.
Personally I like and use ARP stud and nut kit, but plenty don't, plenty also blame the arp's for cracking blocks, which is when they are not fitted properly.
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Old 08-04-2011 | 09:15 PM
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Whats the thought behind cracking blocks then cant realy see how you can fit them wrong, as with most thing in life i know you need to use the Lubb you get with them.
Old 08-04-2011 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jamie956
Whats the thought behind cracking blocks then cant realy see how you can fit them wrong, as with most thing in life i know you need to use the Lubb you get with them.
Some people don't clean the holes out properly and when you tighten them up it cracks the block

Steve
Old 09-04-2011 | 07:09 PM
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for the cost of the nice new arp bolts it would be silly not to use then

no matter how good the standard jobbies are stretch or not
Old 09-04-2011 | 07:56 PM
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It's not so much the cleaning of the holes, or the tapping of the threads, but the SHOULDER problem, the ARP studs have a shoulder at the top of the block thread end, this shoulder absolutely 100% MUST butt against the blocks recess.
It seems some ARP, or rather some blocks have slightly different depth holes, so really careful looking at the shoulder needs to be done to ensure it is butted right up, doesn't need to, and shouldn't be done silly tight, but a few mm may be needed to be taken off one or two.
Of course as said above the holes needs cleaning out of old congealed oil, the threads should have a tap ran down them, with greased tap to pick up the rust etc in the threads, then depth check the holes, it's a totally different feel if they stop due to the shoulder or the studs bottoming out.
Then just fit studs finger tight, then when they butt in the recess around each stud hole, a pair of pliers on the shank and give a twist, don't go mental, 1 hand on the pliers, use your weakest hand, it will be more than enough.
tabetha
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