ARP stud and nut kit
#1
ARP stud and nut kit
Are these ARP stud and nut kits any better than the Std head bolts same go's for the mains caps.
Are Std head bolts stretch type do they need changing every time.
Are Std head bolts stretch type do they need changing every time.
#2
The std ford bolts are stretch blots, and do indeed need changing every time, although some don't!!
The std ford bolts for the mains are ok, and don't generally give trouble, but replacing the rod bolts for ARP is good practice.
Personally I like and use ARP stud and nut kit, but plenty don't, plenty also blame the arp's for cracking blocks, which is when they are not fitted properly.
tabetha
The std ford bolts for the mains are ok, and don't generally give trouble, but replacing the rod bolts for ARP is good practice.
Personally I like and use ARP stud and nut kit, but plenty don't, plenty also blame the arp's for cracking blocks, which is when they are not fitted properly.
tabetha
#3
Whats the thought behind cracking blocks then cant realy see how you can fit them wrong, as with most thing in life i know you need to use the Lubb you get with them.
#4
#6
It's not so much the cleaning of the holes, or the tapping of the threads, but the SHOULDER problem, the ARP studs have a shoulder at the top of the block thread end, this shoulder absolutely 100% MUST butt against the blocks recess.
It seems some ARP, or rather some blocks have slightly different depth holes, so really careful looking at the shoulder needs to be done to ensure it is butted right up, doesn't need to, and shouldn't be done silly tight, but a few mm may be needed to be taken off one or two.
Of course as said above the holes needs cleaning out of old congealed oil, the threads should have a tap ran down them, with greased tap to pick up the rust etc in the threads, then depth check the holes, it's a totally different feel if they stop due to the shoulder or the studs bottoming out.
Then just fit studs finger tight, then when they butt in the recess around each stud hole, a pair of pliers on the shank and give a twist, don't go mental, 1 hand on the pliers, use your weakest hand, it will be more than enough.
tabetha
It seems some ARP, or rather some blocks have slightly different depth holes, so really careful looking at the shoulder needs to be done to ensure it is butted right up, doesn't need to, and shouldn't be done silly tight, but a few mm may be needed to be taken off one or two.
Of course as said above the holes needs cleaning out of old congealed oil, the threads should have a tap ran down them, with greased tap to pick up the rust etc in the threads, then depth check the holes, it's a totally different feel if they stop due to the shoulder or the studs bottoming out.
Then just fit studs finger tight, then when they butt in the recess around each stud hole, a pair of pliers on the shank and give a twist, don't go mental, 1 hand on the pliers, use your weakest hand, it will be more than enough.
tabetha
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