can someone please tell me 'what the crack is' so to speak

i want to know how a t3 a t34 and a t35 differs and what ar i am looking at when specing a chip on the motorsport developments website

on the site it states for stage 3 a .48 .55 or .63 housing is required

the turbo i have been offered has .48 exhaust and .60 compressor

would this turbo do me right?

general info so i have a clue what the numbers and different turbos are would be nice

i understand that a t34 is a t3 turbine and t4 compressor???

so what is a t35?

also some turbos i have seen that are t34s have an actuator mounbt cast into the compressor snail but use the standard actuator mount of a t3 for example>>>why?

cheers

 

can anyone help???

 

The three sizes denote the exhaust housing I.E .48 .55 .63, a T34 and T35 are the same.

I think the last question I think depends on the turbo, some have the original eyelet for the actuator and some don't and need brackets.

Martin

 

A T3 is a T3, on a std cossie 2wd this would be a T3.48(exhaust turbine), then there is the T34, which is exactly the same as a T35, all three T3/T34/T35 can be had with .48/.55/.63 exhaust housing, a T34 and a T4 are 100% different, the T4 is a monster by comparison to a T34.
To further confuse things, you can get, as I have a T3.48, with the standard T3 compressor housing machined out and uses a T34/35 inducer(compressor wheel).
The escos T34 had a cast in actuator mount, but can also be used with a T3 actuator mount instead, the reason is fitment when the two housings are moved in relation to each other to make things fit, this can put the alloy cast mount in the wrong place.
tabetha

 

ooooohhh lol its good that that has been cleared up...so in esscence if i can find a good t34 of a big turbo escos then that would fullfill my needs to go to stage three?

what injectors would you recommend the usual greens or go for the newer siemens range?

what fuel pressure should i be running also? i am gonna just get one of the sytec or aeromotive style regulators with the guage so i can set it myself!

 

Yes as there the same turbo, although I believe the BT Escos is a .63, if so then it may be better to go for a .48 (Less lag) this is the most common choice.

Standard regulator if fine, by no means adjust it, the only reason you should have for wanting to adjust it is if the engine management software has been written for the non standard pressure which is rare, so to answer your question it's dependant upon the software you are running!

Martin

 

i dont know what software the car is running at the minute but i would say the pressure obn the standard regulator has been adjusted as the cap has been flicked off...what should standard pressure be 3 or 3.5 bar?

 

Std rail pressure is 3.5 bar with vac pipe off and plugged.
As said most chips are written for the std rail pressure, injectors to use is really down to how much you want to spend/how easy you can get what you want, power you want.
The good old 403's,(greys) will go up to around 450bhp@ 3.5 bar on a yb engine, and IF mapped correctly will give excellent results, mine was 0.97% CO, and 137PPM on last MOT, could crack 40mpg also, despite 200K miles on std original bottom end, BUT they are no longer made, so if any problems you might be stuck if one went duff.
Probably better to use siemens or similar current(made) injector just in case.
I would do all your mods at once then get it mapped after fitting all the bits you want.
A .63 exhaust housing will be very laggy compared with a .48, but has more potential before running out of steam, and will come in with a harder kick, which you may or may not like, I tow things like cars and a caravan, so need something less laggy.
tabetha

 

why dont u ring them before you order they seem very helpfull and no what there doing they advise u what to go for

 

Tabs, hi mate next time you strap the caravan to it take a piccy pmsl

 

Will do matey, got it booked in for mapping on 16/may, soonest they can do it, but hopefully dave can sneak a few hours here and there for me, engine is holding 60 psi at 2000rpm, on just a std pump, just making my carbon fibre breather, and carbon fibre coilpack bracket as well as lots of other stuff at mo.
I'll be sure to take a piccie though, might even be down your way with the caravan over summer hols.
tabetha

 

what happens if you run no water feed? is it ok to do this?

 

yepthats fine to do that

just take a bit longer to warm up and cool down

 

Depends how much you like your engine/turbo, the oil heats much faster than the water, so the water acts as a safeguard, esp on 4wd where the oil comes from the head having absorbed all the oil(and crap in it)and HEAT on it's way up the engine, now add it next to a exhaust that can easily glow red, and of course being metal transfer heat everywhere inc the sleeve bearings, then do the sums, the water at least trys to keep it at a reasonable temp, and after switch off helps by acting as a heat soak also.
Yes you can run without it if you want, but when you buy a new car and it is fitted, it is there for a reason, and that is down to warranty claims amongst other things, keeping the bearings/oil within it's operating range is better than not.
Just think how hot your exhaust is when you stop, now add a massive lump of heat absorbing material, we'll call it the turbo in this case, with a tiny amount of STATIONARY oil in it, and think of it's job.
Up to personal choice, but if I had the option I would use the water cooling, it's free and beneficial.
tabetha

 

dont the rs500's come from the cosworth factory with no water feed to the turbo as standard .