modding the amal valve
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modding the amal valve
someone told me tonight (and ive done a little digging online)
That if i drill out the little nylon restrictor inside the amal valve which goes to the turbo then it will come on boost much harder
is this true?
That if i drill out the little nylon restrictor inside the amal valve which goes to the turbo then it will come on boost much harder
is this true?
#2
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The boost will be higher, but then your chip must also allow this.
Otherwise you would hit the boost limit and the engine cuts out.
Otherwise you would hit the boost limit and the engine cuts out.
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its currently chipped to run light greens and is approx 260 bhp, will be chipping it to 315bhp with an MSD chip next year
can i drill the nylon restrictors out now or would it cause problems
can i drill the nylon restrictors out now or would it cause problems
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i guess if the car boosts too high i can always buy another one,
will it still be running 14 psi but just kick in quicker and stronger or will it actually increase the level of boost, if so what will it increase it to?
will it still be running 14 psi but just kick in quicker and stronger or will it actually increase the level of boost, if so what will it increase it to?
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http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2004/6...2120725002.jpg
ok so heres the amal valve, we have 3 ports which are:
R - to airbox
C - from turbo
W - to actuator
Ive been reading up on this and i want to just clear up a few things
I believe that the air entering the valve from the turbo is shared between the air box (R) and the actuator (W) drilling out 'R' will increase the amount of air being vented (diverting some of the air going to the actuator) which effectively means the wastegate stays shut longer which = more boost
I have been told that by drilling the turbo feed (C) it will make the turbo boost up to (say for arguments sake 14 PSI) far quicker than before rather than hitting 14 psi progressively
is this correct?
ok so heres the amal valve, we have 3 ports which are:
R - to airbox
C - from turbo
W - to actuator
Ive been reading up on this and i want to just clear up a few things
I believe that the air entering the valve from the turbo is shared between the air box (R) and the actuator (W) drilling out 'R' will increase the amount of air being vented (diverting some of the air going to the actuator) which effectively means the wastegate stays shut longer which = more boost
I have been told that by drilling the turbo feed (C) it will make the turbo boost up to (say for arguments sake 14 PSI) far quicker than before rather than hitting 14 psi progressively
is this correct?
Last edited by 5tox; 16-11-2010 at 07:21 PM.
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#8
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As far as I understand, by drilling out the (R) port you will increase boost, and it will come on boost earlier.
Another mod is making the (C) port smaller, which should also help the boost come sooner, but this will not affect the max boost pressure as such, only how quickly it will get on boost.
Another mod is making the (C) port smaller, which should also help the boost come sooner, but this will not affect the max boost pressure as such, only how quickly it will get on boost.
#10
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I dont think bleed valves and cossies is a good thing.
For precise control use air-air injector set up.
Bleed valves its all to tempting to 'give it another screw and see what happens' = melted dead motor. Ive seen many an rs turbo go this way.
As for the amal mod - your talking risks for small gains.
A proper set up stage3 cossie will come on boost quick and boost hard as it should.
For precise control use air-air injector set up.
Bleed valves its all to tempting to 'give it another screw and see what happens' = melted dead motor. Ive seen many an rs turbo go this way.
As for the amal mod - your talking risks for small gains.
A proper set up stage3 cossie will come on boost quick and boost hard as it should.
#11
Jetting the Amal valve is a normal thing to do, You generally increase the size of port R to increase boost pressure as it allows the valve to bleed more air off. It needs to be done so you dont have to overload the actuator to acheive your target boost pressure. we dont recomend ever running over a hole of pre load, so the rest needs bleeding off.
The valve is totally adjustable IF you know how and have the equipment to do it. Fuelling and boost/det will need to be carefully measured while playing with boost control.
It has one big gain over any std mechanical bleed valve, and that is that it can be controlled by the ecu, so you can have a Peak/Hold boost map, as the valve can be closed to drop the pressure if required. You would need long arms to do that on a std valve fitted under the bonnet.
The valve is totally adjustable IF you know how and have the equipment to do it. Fuelling and boost/det will need to be carefully measured while playing with boost control.
It has one big gain over any std mechanical bleed valve, and that is that it can be controlled by the ecu, so you can have a Peak/Hold boost map, as the valve can be closed to drop the pressure if required. You would need long arms to do that on a std valve fitted under the bonnet.
Last edited by James @ M Developments.; 17-11-2010 at 01:32 PM.
#12
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totaly understand what your saying there james, i always personaly prefer to run one high boost limmit though. My point with the manual bleed valve was that you have more adjustability without fannying about on the lathe making plastic jets (assuming you have a lathe)
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after reading all that i think ill just leave the valve as it is in standard form (mainly because i'm not 100% sure what i'm doing, i've just fitted my samco hoses and big knN filter so the 'R' valve is just vented to atmosphere.
summertime after new rings and shells i am going bigger power with the MSD 315(ish) chip greens and 3 bar map sensor so as said above it should boost up nicely anyway
summertime after new rings and shells i am going bigger power with the MSD 315(ish) chip greens and 3 bar map sensor so as said above it should boost up nicely anyway
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#17
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dont worry, im a spacker, these amal valves confuse me proper, i couldnt sleep as night because i was thinking about them
Last edited by crumpet; 18-11-2010 at 11:33 AM.
#18
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Bit off topic, but i'd like to get my head round this...
See the whole 1/2 hole preload? That doesn't work for me lol. My car runs about 10 psi max if i did that. Why is this? Wrong length actuator? I've MSD air injectors.
See the whole 1/2 hole preload? That doesn't work for me lol. My car runs about 10 psi max if i did that. Why is this? Wrong length actuator? I've MSD air injectors.
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you may need a restrictor BEFORE you bleed off, that way limmiting the amount of air flow going to the injectors in the first instance, so in effect they have to bleed less off for a bigger increase in boost.
#22
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I dont think bleed valves and cossies is a good thing.
For precise control use air-air injector set up.
Bleed valves its all to tempting to 'give it another screw and see what happens' = melted dead motor. Ive seen many an rs turbo go this way.
As for the amal mod - your talking risks for small gains.
A proper set up stage3 cossie will come on boost quick and boost hard as it should.
For precise control use air-air injector set up.
Bleed valves its all to tempting to 'give it another screw and see what happens' = melted dead motor. Ive seen many an rs turbo go this way.
As for the amal mod - your talking risks for small gains.
A proper set up stage3 cossie will come on boost quick and boost hard as it should.
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Its only the penis who screws it right up who knobs the engine with a bleed valve. Worth noting this is no different to taking a boost control pipe off, either way the car will run as much boost as it can make, people fuck cars not bleed valves IMO.
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good point, but if the engine is going to shit itself on max boost i would be looking further ahead than the amal valve, tuning issue? build issue? oil level? water level? ok the ecu can drop the boost, but if you have a problem it will still be there.
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ecu would need to have knock sensing? most dont, if it was det it would usualy retard the timing, but as i said, GOOD POINT, I AGREE, it will help a highly stressed engine running silly boost pressures when it starts to inevitably fall appart lol
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.... that is until i sold my project astra GSI turbo to stick down a deposit on my cossie, never looked back
Last edited by 5tox; 19-11-2010 at 12:29 PM. Reason: pics added
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you got any more pics of the cossie? is that mercury grey? i just finished painting mine
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https://passionford.com/forum/restor...-cosworth.html
got a few on here .... yes mate mercury Grey, apparently there aren't that many left (or so i was told)
got a few on here .... yes mate mercury Grey, apparently there aren't that many left (or so i was told)