Sapphire fylwheel bolts-unusual size ?
#1
Sapphire fylwheel bolts-unusual size ?
Hi
Quick question for all of you who take apart cossie engines,has anyone seen flywheel bolts
like these ?
They should be 16mm size bolts,but they seem to be a little loose on a 16mm multipoint socket
and,looking at the pics,do you think the fylwheel needs a skim ?
there are no ridges on the flywheel.see pic below
Thanks for any advice...
Quick question for all of you who take apart cossie engines,has anyone seen flywheel bolts
like these ?
They should be 16mm size bolts,but they seem to be a little loose on a 16mm multipoint socket
and,looking at the pics,do you think the fylwheel needs a skim ?
there are no ridges on the flywheel.see pic below
Thanks for any advice...
#6
Ok, a 5/8" 6 point socket fits and the flywheel is off!
and once the flywheel is checked/skimmed if need be,some nice 16mm ARP bolts to hold it back on
couple of questions for the knowledgeable ones...
how easy to remove the bearing that sits in the end of the crankshaft,that the gear goes onto ?
and looking at the plate that goes between the engine and gearbox,is the material that rests on the crankshaft replaceable or just leave alone ?
Thanks once again...
and once the flywheel is checked/skimmed if need be,some nice 16mm ARP bolts to hold it back on
couple of questions for the knowledgeable ones...
how easy to remove the bearing that sits in the end of the crankshaft,that the gear goes onto ?
and looking at the plate that goes between the engine and gearbox,is the material that rests on the crankshaft replaceable or just leave alone ?
Thanks once again...
Last edited by eng59; 15-06-2010 at 09:28 PM.
#7
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
The easiest way to remove the spigot bearing is to fill the hole (and the voild behind the beaing) with grease and use something that is the same size as the opening to put in there and then tap the end with a hammer, you might have to repeat this process a couple of times before it comes out fully. I have found using an old input shaft from a gearbox works best as it's exactly the right size, but an extension bar or similar will do.
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#9
20K+ Super Poster.
Is the spigot bearing no good ?, another way or removing is just to use a chisel and crush it in then pull out if you don't have the correct tool, the method with grease above works ok for most but never had much luck myself so just use me spigot puller.
Looking at the plate it appears the area you mention is recessed, so would be some kind of seal there, a bit of thin window draught excluder would work there, not seen anyway.
tabetha
Looking at the plate it appears the area you mention is recessed, so would be some kind of seal there, a bit of thin window draught excluder would work there, not seen anyway.
tabetha
#10
Advanced PassionFord User
iTrader: (24)
I fitted a brand new plate when I fitted brand new oil seals... of course I have a small leak again so the draft excluder type stuff soaks some of that up - but it soon drips past so dont sweat imho.
Burton do a spigot bearing puller.
https://www.burtonpower.com/product_main.aspx?home.aspx
This was my tale though...
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-s...t-a-swine.html
Burton do a spigot bearing puller.
https://www.burtonpower.com/product_main.aspx?home.aspx
This was my tale though...
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-s...t-a-swine.html
#11
Thanks for the advice on the bearing removal.
now, we have some nice new ARP bolts to hold the flywheel on,is there special care needed when fitting these?
loctite or oil the threads,torque up to different value compared to Ford`s 63 to 69Nm ?
nothing ever simple on cars,eh!
Thanks
now, we have some nice new ARP bolts to hold the flywheel on,is there special care needed when fitting these?
loctite or oil the threads,torque up to different value compared to Ford`s 63 to 69Nm ?
nothing ever simple on cars,eh!
Thanks
#12
just found this on Burton website:
Other Info: 52 FT LBS WITH ARP LUBE 70 FT LBS WITH OIL 30wt
matchs what Ford state<convert Nm to LbFt>
and ARP website just says torque them up,none of this bit by bit torquing,which I presume is valid for head/conrod bolts etc.
sound right ?
Other Info: 52 FT LBS WITH ARP LUBE 70 FT LBS WITH OIL 30wt
matchs what Ford state<convert Nm to LbFt>
and ARP website just says torque them up,none of this bit by bit torquing,which I presume is valid for head/conrod bolts etc.
sound right ?
#13
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
I put a dab of loctite on the threads, and used the ARP lube on the underside of the bolt head only. Just nip them all up then tourque one at a time, i try and torque them 180 degrees apart so start with 12 o'clock, then do 6 , then do 1, then do 7, then do 2 etc etc.
#15
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Well they normally come with the ARP lube in the pack, unless you get them from Burtons and they send you 1.5 packs of Pinto bolts They are the same bolt but pinto's use 6 rather than 9 on the YB. Oil will be fine yo ujust need to use the higher setting.
#16
20K+ Super Poster.
DON'T put loctite on the threads, apart from being totally unecessary it spoils the torque reading, don't need to do 180 degrees apart but if it makes you happy.
tabetha
tabetha
#17
All
Thanks for the comments,found the grease in crankshaft to release spigot bearing not that easy to achieve,But did this after doing a google,and it works alot better and less messy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xuR7T8G1Ys
Paper soaked in water,3/8" socket and voila,heavyweight hammer brings out the bearing....
We did loctite the threads,lube the boltheads after reading many posts and the absence of ARP lube with the new bolts,why that doesnt come as part of the kit,beats me..
torqued up and clutch refitted!!
phew...not a nice job,I will admit,what with various bolts shearing...but thats old cars,I guess............
Thanks for the comments,found the grease in crankshaft to release spigot bearing not that easy to achieve,But did this after doing a google,and it works alot better and less messy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xuR7T8G1Ys
Paper soaked in water,3/8" socket and voila,heavyweight hammer brings out the bearing....
We did loctite the threads,lube the boltheads after reading many posts and the absence of ARP lube with the new bolts,why that doesnt come as part of the kit,beats me..
torqued up and clutch refitted!!
phew...not a nice job,I will admit,what with various bolts shearing...but thats old cars,I guess............
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