a way to get more steering on a saff? - for drifting...
15-09-2007, 05:06 PM
#41
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Just checked a Granada Cossie rack i have and its the same as the Dhoc one 
even better is it brandnew
One more thing. The Granada steering rack ends are the same length as Sierra one, so no point in fitting some of them.
Time to break that Granada Cossie i just got
even better is it brandnew One more thing. The Granada steering rack ends are the same length as Sierra one, so no point in fitting some of them.
Time to break that Granada Cossie i just got
25-09-2007, 08:22 PM
#46
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it has got a bit more than that but i couldn't hold the wheel and take the pic and the misses wasn't interested 
the alloys are 9" wide too, on full lock the car actually rolls forward when turning from lock to lock. it has dynamic bodyroll i think it called.
I've used a std rack.
not too sure how it will handle when I get around to drive it but will let you know and possibly if I can get someone to take a few pics
the alloys are 9" wide too, on full lock the car actually rolls forward when turning from lock to lock. it has dynamic bodyroll i think it called.
I've used a std rack.
not too sure how it will handle when I get around to drive it but will let you know and possibly if I can get someone to take a few pics
26-09-2007, 10:02 AM
#47
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Wheel offset also affects the amount of maximum lock you can get, as the bigger the offset the further the wheel is moved from the chassis leg. So if you can get the steering to move further the extra lock can be used, before you hit the chassis again. 
27-09-2007, 12:27 AM
#48
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Dan, just a standard rack? Standard as in what? 2wd cos rack ?
No what u mean about the missus thing
Rob, yeah been thinking about that myself, getting the wheel to sit further away from the hub/crossmember etc
No what u mean about the missus thing
Rob, yeah been thinking about that myself, getting the wheel to sit further away from the hub/crossmember etc
27-09-2007, 09:04 AM
#49
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Originally Posted by Sideways_Sierra
Dan, just a standard rack? Standard as in what? 2wd cos rack ?
No what u mean about the missus thing
Rob, yeah been thinking about that myself, getting the wheel to sit further away from the hub/crossmember etc
No what u mean about the missus thing
Rob, yeah been thinking about that myself, getting the wheel to sit further away from the hub/crossmember etc
it's not just about extending the rack you also have to think about suspension angles if you don't you might run into bumpsteer issues like I did a while ago
here are some pics of my car from when I had the probs with bumpsteer whilst playing with the suspension.
If its not right it will not handle properly as you will steer the wheels then as the suspension compresses it will steer itself which is very frustrating as I found out when I couldn't get around a corner sideways in the other pics I done.
02-10-2007, 12:00 PM
#51
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my sollution:
normal sierra or granny steering rack gives about 3-4 degress plus.
new hole in the hub about 20 mm closer to the tca joint.
rose joint
and 25 mm spacer with normal 7" 15" 205/50 rim and tyre
gives about 44 degrees
normal sierra or granny steering rack gives about 3-4 degress plus.
new hole in the hub about 20 mm closer to the tca joint.
rose joint
and 25 mm spacer with normal 7" 15" 205/50 rim and tyre
gives about 44 degrees
02-10-2007, 01:43 PM
#52
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What about the wheel hitting the chassis?
The amount of lock is not the problem its the tyre hitting the chassis rail that limits the overall amount of movement the wheel has.
I'm off outside now to fit a Granada Cossie rack inplace of the 2wd Cossie one i have on now.
Pics later
The amount of lock is not the problem its the tyre hitting the chassis rail that limits the overall amount of movement the wheel has.
I'm off outside now to fit a Granada Cossie rack inplace of the 2wd Cossie one i have on now.
Pics later
02-10-2007, 01:57 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by robrs2
What about the wheel hitting the chassis?
The amount of lock is not the problem its the tyre hitting the chassis rail that limits the overall amount of movement the wheel has.
I'm off outside now to fit a Granada Cossie rack inplace of the 2wd Cossie one i have on now.
Pics later
The amount of lock is not the problem its the tyre hitting the chassis rail that limits the overall amount of movement the wheel has.
I'm off outside now to fit a Granada Cossie rack inplace of the 2wd Cossie one i have on now.
Pics later
and fukin' big angles
02-10-2007, 06:23 PM
#54
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Got the Granada rack fitted and this is what i found.
Both racks have the same fitment, the only difference is the length of the input shaft. Granada one is about 15mm shorter.
This is the big difference. The cossie rack at the top has a longer end section limiting the lock.
Also i found that the Granada rack has 15mm more movement than the Sierra Dohc one and the rod ends are also 15mm longer. The longer rods have helped with my setup.
Because i have widend the front track by 50mm the trackrod ends were only screwed on by 10mm of thread
Pics don't show well but here is the before and after amounts of lock.
Before
After
Before
After
There is still more lock to come, just need some spacers making
Both racks have the same fitment, the only difference is the length of the input shaft. Granada one is about 15mm shorter.
This is the big difference. The cossie rack at the top has a longer end section limiting the lock.
Also i found that the Granada rack has 15mm more movement than the Sierra Dohc one and the rod ends are also 15mm longer. The longer rods have helped with my setup.
Because i have widend the front track by 50mm the trackrod ends were only screwed on by 10mm of thread
Pics don't show well but here is the before and after amounts of lock.
Before
After
Before
After
There is still more lock to come, just need some spacers making
03-10-2007, 12:35 AM
#55
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I suppose the wheel spacer helps clear the full lock problem, but what rack are you using to connect to the end of those rose joints? interesting way I must say, but surely you need to shorten the steering rods to suit the 20mm movement inwards, so you are only having the same amount of lock, no ?
nice lock rob, so granny cossie rack is back on the shopping list
- what rod ends are you using? just sierra ones? take it they fit on the granny steering rods ?
nice lock rob, so granny cossie rack is back on the shopping list
- what rod ends are you using? just sierra ones? take it they fit on the granny steering rods ?
03-10-2007, 08:04 AM
#56
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Originally Posted by Sideways_Sierra
I suppose the wheel spacer helps clear the full lock problem, but what rack are you using to connect to the end of those rose joints? interesting way I must say, but surely you need to shorten the steering rods to suit the 20mm movement inwards, so you are only having the same amount of lock, no ?
If you shorten the the length of the control "rod", you get more movement, with the same wheel turn. So the lock to lock remain approx. 2.7 but the angle of the wheel at turn be more.
Maybe it is understandable my english is a bit bad
03-10-2007, 01:45 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by Sideways_Sierra
what rod ends are you using? just sierra ones? take it they fit on the granny steering rods ?
I now have the same lock as i had before when the wheel would touch the chassis, but with the TCA's longer there is a lot more room to get even more lock.
Next job is to fit 1/4" spacers between the rack end and the rod arm
04-10-2007, 02:34 PM
#59
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Funny how things go. I was just discussing zOtya's solution with my m8 this week as well
Only thing, my m8 is mad, he was already contemplating on making entire new hubs.
There is just one thing keeping me of it. I bet the car will be very nervous on the steering wheel and that will probably only increase along with the vehicle speed, right?
I was just discussing zOtya's solution with my m8 this week as well Only thing, my m8 is mad, he was already contemplating on making entire new hubs.
There is just one thing keeping me of it. I bet the car will be very nervous on the steering wheel and that will probably only increase along with the vehicle speed, right?
04-10-2007, 04:13 PM
#60
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it shouldn't make any difference to 'nervousness' as that is more related to the camber, castor and toe settings.
all that you are doing there is changing the leverage so that 1 degree of turning of the steering wheel makes more degrees of movement of the steered wheels. so i would think that it would just make it feel more 'direct'
all that you are doing there is changing the leverage so that 1 degree of turning of the steering wheel makes more degrees of movement of the steered wheels. so i would think that it would just make it feel more 'direct'
05-10-2007, 08:20 AM
#61
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Originally Posted by Remko GT
Funny how things go. I was just discussing zOtya's solution with my m8 this week as well
Only thing, my m8 is mad, he was already contemplating on making entire new hubs.
There is just one thing keeping me of it. I bet the car will be very nervous on the steering wheel and that will probably only increase along with the vehicle speed, right?
I was just discussing zOtya's solution with my m8 this week as well Only thing, my m8 is mad, he was already contemplating on making entire new hubs.
There is just one thing keeping me of it. I bet the car will be very nervous on the steering wheel and that will probably only increase along with the vehicle speed, right?
Do you have plan how much cost?
Maybe I am interested in.
remark: My sollution is good for a drift car bad for a track car, and bad for street too. The steering geometry near full lock will be very bad for cornering, but in drift doesn't matter.
05-10-2007, 02:48 PM
#62
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
it shouldn't make any difference to 'nervousness' as that is more related to the camber, castor and toe settings.
all that you are doing there is changing the leverage so that 1 degree of turning of the steering wheel makes more degrees of movement of the steered wheels. so i would think that it would just make it feel more 'direct'
all that you are doing there is changing the leverage so that 1 degree of turning of the steering wheel makes more degrees of movement of the steered wheels. so i would think that it would just make it feel more 'direct'
As for the costs on new hubs, we have no idea yet. We were still only playing with the idea. Might become expensive because probably both the steering arm joint and TCA-hub joint would probably be rose-jointed. Not sure this is necessary because you can probably achieve almost the same thing with an adjustable TCA. The steering arm joint would still be adjustable. The big adventage of creating new hubs is you can decide on whatever brakecalipers you are going to use and make the holes for the bolts in the hub anywhere you want. Radial mounted 6 pots anyone?
The material for the hub will probably become chrome-molybdane for stiffness and weight reduction.
08-10-2007, 01:40 PM
#63
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z0tya - I get you now, took me a minute to look at the picture again and visualise where the rod end would sit in relation to the rose joint. So you havnt shortened your steering rack rod itself?
Rob, you're going to come across the problem now though, off increasing the steering angle, but as you say, catching the ARB now, different offset of wheels would help the problem, but might look funny!
I've really gotta get the cover off the cossie and try a few of these idea's out
Rob, you're going to come across the problem now though, off increasing the steering angle, but as you say, catching the ARB now, different offset of wheels would help the problem, but might look funny!
I've really gotta get the cover off the cossie and try a few of these idea's out
12-10-2007, 12:48 PM
#67
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Originally Posted by Sideways_Sierra
z0tya - I get you now, took me a minute to look at the picture again and visualise where the rod end would sit in relation to the rose joint. So you havnt shortened your steering rack rod itself?
25-10-2007, 04:32 PM
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top job that man
have stripped my DOHC hatch of its steering rack, and will be putting it up under my saff soon, once i've bolted a whole load more goodies onto it, then i can go drifting again
on the subject of my DOHC hatch, i took the rack off and put the wheel at the end points of the steering turn, is this really the maximum amount of steering achievable?
have stripped my DOHC hatch of its steering rack, and will be putting it up under my saff soon, once i've bolted a whole load more goodies onto it, then i can go drifting again
on the subject of my DOHC hatch, i took the rack off and put the wheel at the end points of the steering turn, is this really the maximum amount of steering achievable?
13-11-2007, 08:49 AM
#69
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Zotya that's a good method, looks pretty safe too but I'd flatten the bits the nuts clamped onto (as standard) so they don't screw down onto a curved surface.
Full lock on sierras isn't great but I think the solutions listed on this page can all add together to make PLENTY of lock.
FWIW 44degrees (as zotya said) is the same as a standard s14 200sx lol.
Full lock on sierras isn't great but I think the solutions listed on this page can all add together to make PLENTY of lock.
FWIW 44degrees (as zotya said) is the same as a standard s14 200sx lol.
13-11-2007, 01:56 PM
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I've been looking into getting some adjustable front hubs I had the number of a guy for them but can't find it 
But I've found some pics of some that might be of interest, I know they are for a different fitment but I'm sure they could be produced for the std shock.
they are used on kitcars.
But I've found some pics of some that might be of interest, I know they are for a different fitment but I'm sure they could be produced for the std shock.
they are used on kitcars.
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