Ok basically, got a standard 1990 RST, only mod is a 'plug in' immobiliser.

When the car is cold, i'll plug in the immobiliser (it has to stay in whilst the car is running) put the key in, ignition on.... then the last turn to start i'll have to hold it there for about 5 seconds.... and then it suddenly jumps into life and the startor motor kicks in.

when its warm, its on the button.



But today (this also happened 2 weeks ago), i went to start it, immobiliser plugged in, last turn of the key..... waited for 5 secs...... but nothing.... the dash lights go dim, so looks like its trying to put power to the starter but the starter just aint having it.

It WILL bump start so its not an immobiliser problem, im convinced its the starter motor, or the wiring??? Ive heard these suffer from wiring/starter motor probs.


Help

 

Ok tiny little update, i think this is a seperate problem though, and i know it needs sorting.


Battery is charging at 11.8v ...... this is too low aint it?


And ive noticed my battery light doesnt come on on the dash.

But i have just done an hour long journey home from surrey and she's been good as cold.


Im guessing its just a seperate charging problem and isnt related to the starter not working. I went out a minute ago and the car is still warm and it fired up on the button

 

sounds like an alternator/batery problem to me

 

ok, battery is now charging and showing voltage properly. we're thinking its a bad connection issue in the wiring as we fiddled with the wiring and is now charging fine and showing the battery light accordingly.

so there is no battery or charging problem except the connections like on the terminals etc.


we're thinking that this is the same problem with the intermittant starting.

 

id say ur starter moter is on its way out, mine did the same thing as yours.

theres a bloke selling recon ones for 1.6 cvh's for bout Ł25 delivered, i got one about 5000miles ago and its been good as gold.

 

gonna clean up the battery and starter motor terminals and hope that sorts it.

if not then im hoping its just a case of a new starter motor like you say. did you get exactly the same symtoms then mate?

 

Funny u should bring up this topic cos mine's just started doin a similar thing! Very occasionally when i go to start mine all ignition lights will come on but nothin happens, not even the starter motor clicking. Then all of a sudden it will fire up! Trouble is The problem is so intermitent it's bloody hard to trace, don't wanna buy a new starter motor if it's a wiring problem, i'm thinkin it's possibly an earthing fault???? Have u had any luck sortin yours out mate???

 

Firstly, starters on a CVH is a common problem, if your turning the key and the dash lights are going dim that is showing a MASSIVE drain somewhere, probably your starter sticking and not turning (effectively shorting out), get a new starter, they suffer particularly bad on the RS's due to the downpipe and turbo being so close (heat).

Secondly, the battery light on the dash. If that light doesn't come on when you turn the ignition on i wouldnt even attempt to drive the thing, if the light doesnt come on the alternator won't start charging, they use the bulb to commence charging. The fact you have played with the wires would suggest a dry/dirty connection somewhere, almost guaranteed to be the blue wire, either the connection on the alternator itself, or it also has an inline bullet to the main wiring loom, check these, clean them and apply some electrical contact lubricant, and you should be trouble free then

 

yeah thats it mate. since we've fiddled with the connections its behaving itself now.

gonna clean up the battery, alternator and starter terminals and see how i get on. will probably order a new starter soon.

ive heard that a 1.8 D one can be fitted? is a bit more stronger ive been told?

 

Yeah i would of thought it would be the thin blue wire as i said, thats for the battery light.

Yeah a diesel one is more powerful, but in that case you might need to uprate your battery especially if its getting on a bit, mine has got a starter i saved off a MK5 1.4 escort i had, the original ford one, but starts it perfectly, shouldnt really be any need to go getting bigger starters to be honest.

 

the thin blue wire - are you talking about the one that comes off the top of the alternator?

if not, which one?

does it break down where it connects to the alternator, or does it break down along the wire?

 

The thin blue wire, connects to the alternator, depending whether you have a pre 86 alternator or post 86 (should be post 86 but you know theres some wierd and wondeful people out there that like to do some crazy shit )

So, yours being the correct alternator, should have its own push fit round plug on the blue wire onto the alternator, and they all also have an inline round plug aswell joining to the main loom.

I would remove them, give them a quick once over with a bit of scotch pad or something, then apply a bit of electrical contact grease and put them back on

 

is the bullet connector on the blue wire just below the starter motor right?


i cleaned up most of the connections on the battery, alternator and starter today (there was a few i couldnt get to) and still got the same problem - delay in starter motor engaging when cold.... battery light on with ignition sometimes, sometimes not

yesterday (before cleaning up connections) i had her idling and it was chearing 14v one minute, then 11, then 9, then 7..... then back up to 14 LOL


its just the delay in the starter motor engaging and the random battery light sometiems on with ignition and sometimes not that is bothering me, i was hoping this was gonna be a nice reliable standard car

 

Yeah the connector will be around there.

Hmmm, alternators do cut in and out when charging, but to be honest you shouldnt ever really see it near 9 volts!!!! I presume you put a voltmeter on the battery while running yeah?

I'd first find the fault with the battery light and get it charging reliably before you investigate the starter problem, may be linked!

There cant be much wrong on the charging side

 

im tempted just to leave it with an auto electrician for a few dayas and hand over the $.


its more annoying than anything lol battery light there one minute and not the next

 

Well thats up to you really, i wouldnt personally?

The only things involved with your fault are, the alternator, the blue wire running to the instrument panel, the bulb itself and thats about it.

It would also be worthwhile whipping the instrument panel out, and giving the bulb a wiggle as the circuit on the back gets dirty after the years, might be a bad connection on there.

Its going to be something simple, its also VERY easy to remove the brush pack off the alternator and check to see how worn they are (probably getting worn), if your going to do that though for gods sake disconnect the battery first

 

firstly, i'd like to thank you safechav for the advice, i wouldnt have found the problem today if you hadnt suggested it so thankyou mate.


it was the bullet connector with the diode in it thats on the blue wire took it apart and cleaned it up and the battery light is glowing red everytime i turn the ignition on.

she's starting perfectly everytime to as the wire that engages the starter also connects to the same loom/wire so just killed 2 birds with one stone. well chuffed.


ta again safechav. top bloke. you should be charging!

 

Oh does yours have one of those long black tubey type looking jobbies on the blue wire does it (the diode ), forgot about that mine doesnt have one?

Glad i helped you out, thats what we are all here for. What are your voltage readings like now?

I'm not an alternator

I did get offered an Auto-Electrician job working for a friends dad aswell (cushy number) but i turned it down, having second thoughts lately though

 

yeah ive got a diode in mine.... its just there so the current can only go one way i.e the alternator can charge the battery but the power cant go the other way and the battery fry the alternator....

i contemplated taking mine off..... but left it on for fear of the current going back the wrong way into the alternator.....???


i'm reading 14.1v at idle...... and 13.1v with everything in the car running (stereo, fan, lights, heated screens etc etc etc.


the 14.1 at idle is ok i presume? the 13.1 with everything on is a bit low i think? but that was EVERYTHING running.

 

To be honest the diodes arent on the wiring diagrams, shouldnt really make a difference, but if its working now it goes back to the legendary saying "if it aint broke, dont fix it"

Nah those readings are fine, thats pretty good actually if your still charging at 13.1v at idle with full load (i bet u didnt have the cooling fan on though did u )

It will increase when you raise from idle anyway, sounds to me like the jobs a good un

 

Actually come to think of it are u SURE its a diode and not just a connector tube? As the terminal on the blue wire changes from being a Negative/Earth when not running to the charging voltage when running (hence why the bulb goes out, being fed by a switched +12v)