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Water temps

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Old 12-09-2012, 05:10 PM
  #41  
essexRSTSouthend
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I run distilled water all the time mate. I found using that red wetter stuff is pointless. It was when i tried it and made no difference.

The day i fitted my alloy rad and front mount intercooler i soon noticed a big difference in temp's and trying to keep them down was harder but seems i got there in the end. The only time i suffer from overheating is when i'm stuck in traffic for more than 15minutes at a stand still,then i put the heater's on to cool her down quickly.
Old 12-09-2012, 06:45 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Rogeyboy
Ive now tried sealing the rad and ic together... No air escapes from between the 2 now!
Still runs hot lol

Did it help at all mate?

Rob,
Old 13-09-2012, 09:54 AM
  #43  
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No Rob, no difference. Starting to bug me now to the stage i dont drive the car!
Im thinking the only final cure to this is to lose the front mount n put a pace 1/2 size one on... Hoping boost temps dont go too high!
Old 13-09-2012, 12:30 PM
  #44  
haz87
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Have you tried using a standard copper core rad? (only if youve got one lying about - bit excessive to spend out otherwise)
Old 13-09-2012, 12:31 PM
  #45  
haz87
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Just thought, out of interest, where is the sensor located that your ecu is taking the readings from?
Old 13-09-2012, 02:30 PM
  #46  
anvini
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Originally Posted by Rogeyboy
No Rob, no difference. Starting to bug me now to the stage i dont drive the car!
Im thinking the only final cure to this is to lose the front mount n put a pace 1/2 size one on... Hoping boost temps dont go too high!
Hi Robeyboy

I had the same problem than you on last year....

I was running with a Airtec front mount intercooler (with the twin fans in front of Airtec alloy water Radiator) and Airtec turbo cooler bypassed to the water radiator (T3 Turbo without water cooled):

http://www.autospecialists.co.uk/Pol...oduct-662.html

No matter if it was summer or winter, the water temp were at 96c at idling or stuck in traffic and when I drove the car at 60mph "without boosting" the water temps rise up to 100-105c, very near to the boiling point, and the fans were always stay on...
I tried with many fans switches, Cosworth, Standard RST and after market and didn´t help...

The final solution was:
Had to Remove the Front mount intercooler and Turbo cooler rad and fit a second hand TWIN CORE INTERCOOLER from AH FABRICATIONS, good up to 14psi boost



FORGE also sells same kind of intercooler but it is very very expensive.

To control the fans, I fitted a DIGITAL water temp gauge with an ADJUSTABLE fan working range control....and a manual switch.

Now, the water temps never go higher than 84-85c at 60mhp in the motorway.
Stuck in traffic the fans come on at 96c and turn off at 90c, that is the range I setup myself with the Water temp Gauge.

Hope that helps mate!!
Old 13-09-2012, 04:15 PM
  #47  
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Harry - I had a copper rad before, same issue. Altho it was a 2nd hand rad.
Ecu temp sensor uses the one in the back of the inlet.
Them temps sound alot more reasonable anvini... I'd like to see 90c max on cruise!
Tonight i plan to try the car without the turbo cooler pre-rad and see what difference it makes. I run 14psi of boost atm and im thinking along the lines of a smaller IC or charge cooler...?
Old 13-09-2012, 05:44 PM
  #48  
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Have you tried monitoring your temps from somewhere else? Just wondering if the alloy inlet is holding the heat and upping the reading slightly (very scientific i know).
Where do others (karlos etc) monitor theirs from i wonder..
Old 14-09-2012, 10:08 AM
  #49  
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Most likely from the same place i would imagine as thats where the ECU's standard sensor is. I dont know for sure tho?
In theory i think it should be cooler there as the water has just been cooled by the rad and pumped round there, no?
So last night i ran the car up with the feed off the turbo, hardly any water comes out of it, every now n then it pulses out abit then nothing for ages. Im thinking water pump now?
Old 14-09-2012, 10:11 AM
  #50  
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Either your plumbing is wrong or your water pump is buggered, because I'd imagine it should be a steady flow of water everywhere once the stat is open.
Old 14-09-2012, 10:16 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by matthart
Either your plumbing is wrong or your water pump is buggered, because I'd imagine it should be a steady flow of water everywhere once the stat is open.
I agree, that doesnt sound right at all Rog!
Least a pump is cheap and easy to change.
Old 14-09-2012, 11:47 AM
  #52  
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Well i first noticed it when the water return from the turbo wouldnt flow out of the turbo cooler, there wasn't enough power behind the water to push it thru it.
Altho pressure soon builds and once it was hot and pressured up there was a good flow through it, but im guessing the flow should be there pressure or not...
I'll stick a belt on there too, its been nearly 2yrs now since the engines been in! Something todo to the car over the winter months!
What pumps are people using? Any brands to avoid or recommended?

Last edited by Rogeyboy; 14-09-2012 at 12:05 PM.
Old 14-09-2012, 01:09 PM
  #53  
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When you say hot, you sure it just wasnt flowing because the stat wasnt open?
Old 14-09-2012, 03:10 PM
  #54  
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Its such a weird problem Roger, my car has an alloy road and radtec front mount intercooler, twin fans etcetc. It over heated in heavy summer traffic as one of my fans had an intermittent fault (ie wouldn't come on). Otherwise it was fine every where else

It really does sound like coolant isn't flowing round the system properly.... perhaps?

Rob,
Old 14-09-2012, 05:05 PM
  #55  
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Im gonna have a look at the pump... If not i'll put a 1/2 size cooler on and maybe water injection to keep the inlet temps down lol.
Ive been told the pumps with "holes"in the vanes are best, but dont really know what that means!
Its just annoying knowing the fans are always on and the car gets to 108c after a bootful. It does cool again back to around 96-100c but thats still too hot imo!
Old 14-09-2012, 08:21 PM
  #56  
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my estate and 3i did this with a front mount, when i took them intercooler off it would run nice and cool but put the cooler back on ran real hot all the time. i use a airtech half front mount now and temps are about right and still runs 20psi at reasonable temps
Old 14-09-2012, 08:36 PM
  #57  
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In mine the problem solved after fitting the I/C lower (f/m intercooler, alloy rad, no water cooling stage 2 T3). Fitted arround 20-25 cm lower and now is running with normal water temps even the hot summer days... 40-42 degrees here in greece....
Old 15-09-2012, 11:16 AM
  #58  
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tasos - how have you mounted it lower? Mine sits on the crossmember already!
Maybe a full front mount is overkill anyway and a 1/2 mount will do or charge cooler?
Old 15-09-2012, 11:43 AM
  #59  
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i will try to get some photos later Roger. But i don't know if is clear what i've done with crossmember... there is a... lip (i don't know the word in english. Ι hit it with a hammer and flatten downward. then trimmed a bit more the bumper (88 spec) to gain more space. Then you need a 90 degrees hose and a 10-15 cm hose connector..
Old 15-09-2012, 05:13 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by matthart
When you say hot, you sure it just wasnt flowing because the stat wasnt open?
This a point worth checking!
Old 16-09-2012, 01:42 PM
  #61  
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mine used to run hot no matter what i tried seemed to help until i heat wrapped downpipe it was so much better thinking of wrapping the manifold too now but i think your right roger my temps were never a problem till the front mount i tried different rad both alloy and cooper, new water hoses, flushed system everytime i tried something new had water cooling on turbo connected and disconected, new stat lower temp stat uprated fan switch although everything as a package eventually helped the bigest diffrence was the heat wrapping
Old 16-09-2012, 01:48 PM
  #62  
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Roger here are some photos... not the best but you can get a clue..


By tasos77 at 2012-09-16

here yopu can see where the bumper trimmed and where 90 degrres hose and hose connector used


By tasos77 at 2012-09-16


By tasos77 at 2012-09-16


By tasos77 at 2012-09-16

free space for the rad!!


By tasos77 at 2012-09-16

Last edited by tasos77; 16-09-2012 at 01:52 PM.
Old 16-09-2012, 06:36 PM
  #63  
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Martin, Ive got the manifold, elbow and downpipe wrapped. Still runs hot...
Ive now removed my radtec front mount, put 1 fan on the rad and i dont see any more than 88-90c on cruise. 94max after a thrash! Fans come on at 93c and off at 88c, single fan isn't upto the job of cooling the temps tho, so ive now put both on the rad.
Got the stock IC on the car now, after a boot through 2nd and 3rd (14psi) the inlet temps are 45-50c and its a det party in 5th so ive had to retard the timing abit to compensate.

Now all ive gotta do is find a way of cooling the charge air... GRS Front mount, Pace double capacity or a charge cooler maybe?
Old 16-09-2012, 07:09 PM
  #64  
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charge coolers are ok but its keeping it cool, when the water warms up it stays warm especially is its hot out IME, half mounts are fine for up to 20psi, i see charge temps of 35 when pedalling it and its a airtec half mount thing. you could plum in a co2 spray but its a bit extreme lol. theres always water injection aswell
Old 16-09-2012, 08:02 PM
  #65  
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Whats your spec?
Also what boost do you run?
Old 16-09-2012, 08:41 PM
  #66  
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standard 1.6 cvh, stage 2 .48 t3 turbo, airtec half mount, nothing heat wrapped as ime causes exhausts and manifolds to crack, still running mfi with 195 chipped ecu, mongoose stainless, 20psi boost, group a coil, new standard ford cam no idea on power as never had it on rollers but chewed a uprated clutch in 100miles so had to fit a 4 paddle, pulls like a train. off road as of this weekend as turbo blown. thinkin of 1.8 zvh over winter too.
Old 16-09-2012, 09:04 PM
  #67  
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You never see much over 35c? What about WOT in 4th&5th?
Can you put a photo up please?

That sounds like what i want...
Old 16-09-2012, 09:51 PM
  #68  
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Put the front mount back on and be more careful with your right foot
Old 17-09-2012, 06:55 AM
  #69  
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Thats boring...
Besides, it used to cruise hot anyway! The front mount is going on eBay!
Old 17-09-2012, 04:38 PM
  #70  
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its a det party in 5th
That phrase made me chuckle.

Charge cooling gets a slating on the escort forums, but looking at the pace kits its really no wonder why.

Tiny rad, pump and reservoir and im not convinced there exchanger is a great design either. Perhaps a modified kit is the way forward? A second header tank on the N/S inner wing, motorbike rad and a nice large pump.... there are several off the shelf water/air exchangers available too.

If it can keep temps down enough less lag would be another positive side effect..

Rob,
Old 17-09-2012, 08:39 PM
  #71  
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Yeah ive heard people upgrade the rad and use the washer bottle as a expansion tank for the charge cooler.
Rob - What front mount do you run? I dont wanna fit another front mount and the temps to go sky high!
Old 18-09-2012, 12:46 AM
  #72  
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I had a GRS which was fine, and now have a Radtec http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Produc...ers%20&%20Kits

Its pretty huge and blocks the whole rad, so may not be the best option? I'll find some old datalogs and see what my acts were with it.

Rob,
Old 18-09-2012, 07:02 AM
  #73  
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Why did you remove the GRS?
Mine was a radtec, its odd how some cars run fine with a fmic and others run hot!

Last edited by Rogeyboy; 18-09-2012 at 07:05 AM.
Old 18-09-2012, 04:08 PM
  #74  
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Just a a lengthy conversation with Alan at autospecialists and he's pretty sure fitting one of their new single pass intercoolers will keep charge temps down and allow suffiecient airflow to the rad still... Anyone using an Airtec Single Pass?
Old 18-09-2012, 04:14 PM
  #75  
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charge temps arent too bad at all, on a real hot day if i give it some they can raise up to 42 deg but it dont det of anything like that but i run vpower fuel all the time and she runs slighty rich anyway. im just about to start taking it apart in next couple of days so ill grab pics then
Old 18-09-2012, 04:18 PM
  #76  
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That'd be good as i'd like to see your setup! Cheers
Old 19-03-2013, 12:38 PM
  #77  
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I think ive solved this... I fitted an Airtec single pass cooler at the weekend, leaving the fans on the Airtec rad. I modified the "air flow" plate that comes with the intercooler to direct air from the right hand side of the cooler round to the radiator behind it. The fans come in and go off as they should and the car cools nicely when cruising around.

Looking at the IC before i fitted it, theres alot more room between the fins than the Radtec i had previously, obviously allowing more air to pass through the cooler and onto the radiator.

Im now running an Airtec Intercooler, Radiator and Turbo Cooler and seeing cruise temps of 83-85c and the fans are kicking in around 96c and cooling the system back down to 92c before turning off!

Fingers crossed this is the problem solved!
Old 19-03-2013, 12:55 PM
  #78  
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One of these Roger?
http://www.autospecialists.co.uk/Air...oduct-586.html

From one of these?
http://radtec.co.uk/products/247/Ser...cooler-Kit.htm

I've got that radtec that I've not fitted as mine always ran stupid hot. Once I get more comfortable with the map I was planning to put it on, now you've got me worried!
Old 19-03-2013, 12:59 PM
  #79  
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Yeah altho the Series 2 single pass from Airtec, that link is the Series 1...
Give it a try, what IC you running atm?
Old 19-03-2013, 01:52 PM
  #80  
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Woops yeah I meant the S2 Airtec. Currently I've just got a standard IC, but I'm only running just over standard boost while I get to grips with MS. I barely touch the car these days as got big problems with my back, though will be back on it over easter weekend.


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