ABS removal?
just done mine with the engine in
take off every thing m8 module's and brackets theres a clump of brake lines at the back of the cross member undo the pipes so you can remove them both, and take out the lines that go to the master cylinder, and to the lines that are left which went from the ABS to each T on the inner wing the wiring with the sencors just unclips
then make up new lines that go from the master cylinder to each T on the wings, the highest line coming out the master cylinder runs to the drivers side lowest to the pass side

mark
take off every thing m8 module's and brackets theres a clump of brake lines at the back of the cross member undo the pipes so you can remove them both, and take out the lines that go to the master cylinder, and to the lines that are left which went from the ABS to each T on the inner wing the wiring with the sencors just unclips
then make up new lines that go from the master cylinder to each T on the wings, the highest line coming out the master cylinder runs to the drivers side lowest to the pass side

mark
Trending Topics
yanrs-top link that mate loads of info on there
Bodge-fu*k knows how you removed the ABS with the engine,ive had
trouble trying to remove it with most of the engine out!!
Bodge-fu*k knows how you removed the ABS with the engine,ive had
trouble trying to remove it with most of the engine out!!
I've recently done it, it was quite tricky cos the engine was still in, trying to connect the new pipes was the hardest bit, you can only just fit your hand in and do like a quarter of a turn at a time, took ages. I've just blocked the ABS outlets up on the fluid bottle but like whats been said its better to get an XR3i one.
I did this last sept.
Took it all off in situ... albeit while I changed my box...
Take off everything as already said and then either get some pipes up to bipass the old shitty ABS or make all new lines. Remember you're throwing it away it has no resale value so just be brutal.
The connectors into the ABS are a complete pain in the ASS though so new lines might be easier.
You also need to trace the lines and decide if you want a Diagonal split like XR3i or if you want front/rear split which will be better but if you remove the rear compensators you will need a bias valve to safely carry passengers in the back.
A couple of bolts where the ABS bleeds into the fluid resoirvoir and jubilee cliped up is a good and cheap solution and as long as they dont leak passes MOT. NICE ONE!
Make sure your pipes are secure though as loose copper pipes is a failure.
And the light will need sorting on the dash. Just bridge the sensor in the engine bay and wrap it up and hide it.
Job done, better brake performance now all you need is some castrol SRF and nice discs and away you go.
Shings
Took it all off in situ... albeit while I changed my box...
Take off everything as already said and then either get some pipes up to bipass the old shitty ABS or make all new lines. Remember you're throwing it away it has no resale value so just be brutal.
The connectors into the ABS are a complete pain in the ASS though so new lines might be easier.
You also need to trace the lines and decide if you want a Diagonal split like XR3i or if you want front/rear split which will be better but if you remove the rear compensators you will need a bias valve to safely carry passengers in the back.
A couple of bolts where the ABS bleeds into the fluid resoirvoir and jubilee cliped up is a good and cheap solution and as long as they dont leak passes MOT. NICE ONE!
Make sure your pipes are secure though as loose copper pipes is a failure.
And the light will need sorting on the dash. Just bridge the sensor in the engine bay and wrap it up and hide it.
Job done, better brake performance now all you need is some castrol SRF and nice discs and away you go.
Shings
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




you have more patience than me mate 