mr_joe0606

iTrader: (1)

think i will be buying some off that oil next

TMC225Y

10w40 semi synthetic has always been my oil of choice. 10w40 full synthetic is even better, but I can't open my wallet wide enough. I rebuilt the engine in my mk3 xr3i, and have done 100,000 motorway miles in the last 5 years. I recently took the car off the road due to rot. I've removed the sump and head, and there was no detectable bore wear at all, the honing marks are still visible. The oil must be doing a pretty good job. It has a kent cams CVH32 cam kit, and I can't see any wear on that either. I've always changed the oil every 4000 miles (10 weeks for me!) I know it's not quite the same as an RS turbo, and motorway use is kind to engines mile for mile. The tappets are always quiet, i'm expecting 300,000 before anything seriously starts to wear out! The quickest way to kill a CVH is to use a thick oil like 20w50. Like someone else said, regular cam failures must be due to lack of oil feed to the camshaft for whatever reason.

chaffe

the long and the short of it is, you will not fix a wanker of and engine by changing the oil, but a well looked after engine with regular oil changes and warmed up properly will last longer than infrequent changes, and thrashing when cold. The actual oil only has to be good quality of the correct grade, as long as its changed often and not contaminated with petrol, and dirt then a good engine will last well. i used 15 w40 diesel semi synthetic no probs for years on my zvh, and changed it often

TMC225Y

True, chaffe. I think a lot of people are blinded by names like magnatec etc. Many of these oils with posh names are of lesser spec than oils half the price. I always look at the API coding on the bottle. As i understand it, the most basic multigrade oils are SC/SD grade, working up to SJ and SL etc, which to my understanding is a good spec of oil. CVH engines have always had a fair bit of piston blowby, even when new, therefore they do shit the oil up with carbon pretty quickly. That's why it needs to be changed regularly. I have used diesel oil in them, but not for a long time. Come to think of it, it's probably quite a good idea, as diesel oil has additives to deal with carbon particles coming past the rings.

oilman

Some branded oils like Magnatec aren't great value for money, but then again, a lot of cheaper oils that are made too look good on the label are total rubbish.

By the way, there is no difference between 'Petrol' and 'Diesel' oils. All engine oils meet petrol and diesel specs (see the ACEA A and B rating on the can), so they are all fine to use in a petrol or diesel engine. The reason they put diesel on a can is to give customers confidence that it's suitable for their engine (as you can see, people need to see that) and so they can charge a couple of quid extra for the same stuff.

Cheers

Tim

morph

iTrader: (1)

A collegue of mine uses this Lucas oil additive to all his cars and swears by the stuff, he has used it in many turbo engines like Porsche and cossies, He has always told me to try it in the engine but I was told never to use any oil treatment or additive in a cvh turbo engine as it may damage the turbo seals. Has anyone used any of this stuff or oilman can you advise if this stuff is worht trying?

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Lots if not all diesel oils have more detergent additives,

Rob,

oilman

No, you're not right there. If you have a look at the specs on a can, you will see that the ACEA petrol and diesel specs will be the same or similar*

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-991-fuch...ngine-oil.aspx

If you have a look at that, you'll see that while it's not sold as a diesel oil, it meets the ACEA B5 spec, the top normal diesel spec. You'll also see that it meets the ACEA A5, the top petrol spec.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-713-cast...n-engines.aspx

The Castrol Edge 5w-30 meets all of the latest diesel specs, but it's not a 'diesel' oil, it's an engine oil. A good example is the VW 504.00 spec (latest VW petrol spec) and the VW 507.00 spec (latest VW diesel spec), but all the oils that meet the 504.00 also meet the 507.00 and vice versa. BMW specs are LL98, LL01 and LL04, but there is no distinction between diesel and petrol as it's the same oil.

Then there are all the other oils like the Pro S etc that people think are only for petrol engines, but they meet ACEA diesel specs and actually exceed a load of manufacturer diesel specs.



* There are certain diesel engines (VW PD engines and engines with diesel particulate filters) that must use oils specifically designed for those requirements, but those oils are also suitable for petrol engines. Those engines are relatively uncommon though.


Cheers

Tim

oilman

Oil additives are generally useless or possibly harmful, unfortunately some of the Lucas ones could be both, depending on how you look at it. Their most common ones, the oil stabiliser and leak stopper are just thickening agents that make the oil way thicker than the engine wants.

Cheers

Tim

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Good point, and im sure many oils meet standards for both diesel and petrol engines, not saying they are different. Wasn't aware that ACEA specifications took into account detergent levels etc, more application/performance applicable.

Out of curiosity why do ACEA split their specifications list into the A,B,C groups when at least the petrol and diesel oils are the same?

Rob,

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

This i agree with, in the 70's (when im sure oil wasn't as good) my fathers uncle owned a haulage company, the fleet of lorries/trucks etc routinely had engine strip downs/inspections and rebuilds to ensure reliability. He found that the majority of additives of the time caused more wear or did nothing. The only additive that genuinely made a difference was graphite based, he reasoned that this helped on start up where there was low/no oil pressure, the thin coating of graphite temporarily lubricated components.

Rob,

oilman

They have ACEA A, B, C and E.

A for petrol and B for diesel, it just so happens that these days often their requirements are very much the same. ACEA C is for the latest low ash oils for diesel fitted with DPF (diesel particulate filters), this is all about meeting emissions targets but acutally have no bearing on the engine itself, just the exhaust filtration system. ACEA E is really for commercial diesel stuff and could be considered diesel specific stuff.

Cheers

Guy

bluntys1rsturbo

sorry to revive an old thread but i suppose this is what the search function is for to prevent thread after thread of the same thing

i will be giving my frst a full service in the next couple of weeks the engine is totally standard atm but plans to go msd stage 3 in the near future. So going off what iv read on here will i be best going for the 10w/50 fully synth oil?

oilman

Yep, 10w-50 will be ideal and can take anything you can chuck at it.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

Cheers

Guy

bluntys1rsturbo

thanks for the reply