Shaking when breaking
#1
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From: Cornwall
Shaking when breaking
Does anyone know what may be causing my car to shake quite bad when I break? So far I have done the following :
New Tyres
Balancing
Tracking
New Discs + Pads
It is still persisting, and am running out of ideas.
Thanks.
New Tyres
Balancing
Tracking
New Discs + Pads
It is still persisting, and am running out of ideas.
Thanks.
#5
Things like that could cause it.......probably not being honest but if you can try fitting some different wheels on the front that would eliminate them!
Its very common on MK4's for the discs to warp, that was my first suggestion until you said you have changed them! As you approach stopping, can you feel "tight spots" where the brakes bite more every full revolution of the wheels?
Its very common on MK4's for the discs to warp, that was my first suggestion until you said you have changed them! As you approach stopping, can you feel "tight spots" where the brakes bite more every full revolution of the wheels?
#6
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From: Cornwall
Yeah I know what you mean about mk4's with warped discs, which is what I thought it would be. Ive had them warped before, but thinking about it, there wasnt any "tight spots", breaking aint tooooo bad at lower speeds, seems to be at its worst between 50 & 70, which is why I thought it may of been tracking / balancing - but that did nothing.
#7
The tight spots are where the disc isn't true, so as it passes through the pads it creates more friction. If they are warped you should be abel to feel the tight spots.
Try the suspension bushes as suggested, they dont cost much and most are perished and out of shape!
Try the suspension bushes as suggested, they dont cost much and most are perished and out of shape!
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#8
The warped discs are often more myth than true. Most often the feeling for out of round shaky discs is caused be the brake disc sirface being unevenly glazed or unevenly contaminated by brake pad material sticking on the disc surface.
#9
i hadths problem with mine .did the same things as you and still no good.turned out to be rust build up were the caliper anchor brakets bolt to the hub carrier,so make sure all mateing faces are spot less,no paint,rust ect
#11
Ive got EXACTLY the same problem! Cars had various wheels on(all newly balanced), new pads and disks, new bushes(whole car), new engine/gbox mounts!
Gonna fit new driveshafts this weekend,lol, see if they do anything
Gonna fit new driveshafts this weekend,lol, see if they do anything
#12
Pad compound or the fact that they are glazed would be my bet.
Try some el-cheapo pads in there and see if the problem vanishes. People are too quick to 'over-pad' their brakes.
Try some el-cheapo pads in there and see if the problem vanishes. People are too quick to 'over-pad' their brakes.
#22
Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
Worth a shot.....cheers for reply to my pm's Andrew
I would of given u the cash to buy a brand relay for that stereo, that connection being loose aint a good sign!
Bet he chuckled all the way home!
#23
PassionFord Post Troll
Joined: May 2004
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From: fee,fife,foe,fumb,i smell the blood of an englishman ,in scotland!
the problem is your steering arms,when you remove them from the hub,they should stay in the position you left them in,and not fall down,they are worn if they do,and only come with the steering rack,as far as im aware,as i asked ford,about mine,,ive been told you can get a quickrack for around Ł120,but i aint checked yet,as mine is doing the same, if your on a track and you get to about a ton,you may feel like the front could wander,in extreme cases,this is because of the play in them.
ive changed the lot,believe me,and the last thing to do,is the rack arms,.
and while im at it, warped discs,well, its not exactlly warped,
wot happens is - when your disc is hot,the metal expands,then when the brakes are applied,you squeeze that area down as you sit for a bit,at the lights per se,which results in a depleted surface area,to the rest of the disc,it only needs to happen once,then the dreaded pump,hits your brake pedal when you apply.
thats why drilled,discs run cooler,avioding this,(but not all the time,.)
ive changed the lot,believe me,and the last thing to do,is the rack arms,.
and while im at it, warped discs,well, its not exactlly warped,
wot happens is - when your disc is hot,the metal expands,then when the brakes are applied,you squeeze that area down as you sit for a bit,at the lights per se,which results in a depleted surface area,to the rest of the disc,it only needs to happen once,then the dreaded pump,hits your brake pedal when you apply.
thats why drilled,discs run cooler,avioding this,(but not all the time,.)
#27
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From: Cornwall
Another thing I noticed today is that when driving along at about 60, then there is a slight shaking, the same as when the tracking is out. The tracking was done last week, as well as wheels being balanced, so im thinking that it may be the actual wheels themselves.
I have some different wheels that I can try, so I shall do that.
I have some different wheels that I can try, so I shall do that.
#29
Check the front tyres to make sure they're seated correctly on the rims/
a lot a rubber monkeys neglect to use tyre paint on the bead when
putting new ones on which leads to pretzel shaped hoops.
a lot a rubber monkeys neglect to use tyre paint on the bead when
putting new ones on which leads to pretzel shaped hoops.
#30
Originally Posted by steven botes
check all the rubbers on your suspension
replace all the anti roll bar ones and check for play on the lower control arms
balancing and alignment are a waste of time if these are gone
replace all the anti roll bar ones and check for play on the lower control arms
balancing and alignment are a waste of time if these are gone
Getting wheels correctly balanced (you'd be surprised by the tyre amount 'fitters' that are unable to do this)is ALWAYS worth doing.
Make sure you get the rears done as well.
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